Rust prevention, better than cure.

[rustic]

I have been checking my Mav today, last year I had the front plastic wheel arch trims off, to re do the waxoyl, and they were still in perfect as new condition, so a bit more waxoyl, and leave for a few more years.

Well today I bit the bullet and removed the rear plastic wheel arch trims, on cleaning up, and on close inspection with a bright light, I notice a few imperfections on the edges under the trim, so I scraped off the paint, and noticed some minor surface rust, that if left would have travelled up and past the plastic trim, no wonder they call it tin worm, as looking closely you can see hair like strands behind the paint radiating out, lifting the paint and spreading the rust.

The cure was scrape the loose paint off, sand it down, de grease, then apply two coats of Kurust, then two coats of hammerite, then waxoyl both the inside and the outside, yet again, refit the plastic trim, and wipe off any excess waxoyl.

So this is now sorted, good for another few years.

With a stubby pozidrive screwdriver, I didn't need to remove the wheel or jack it up, 7 screws to remove on my trim, and remove the plastic clips to remove mud.

So if you have ten minutes, whip yours off, have a look, if you catch it early, you won't have to colour match any paint as it's all behind the plastic trim.

I'm suggesting this as many owners have had problems with rusty wings. On the earlier models like mine, rust hasn't got that far to travel beyond the trim, but the later ones have wider trim, and the first time the rust gets this far to be seen, it's often too late, as the metal is holed, and difficult to repair.:doh

Hope this helps, too late for some, but worth a few minutes.:thumb2:thumb2
Prevention is always better than cure, but requires a huge time investment.
Mine has certainly paid off.

Best regards,

Rustic

 

[Sweety]

I'm going to do the same in the spring as i'm sure the later models are made from tin foil:lol got a couple of small rust patches to do aswell one is is behind the N/S/R door seal next to the windscreen rubber but it's only small & light at the min & hopefully we'll get a warmish day soon so I can get it done & that the paint dries

 

[sp00k]

Good advice there :thumbs.Im in the process of doing mine at the moment.Back end was not to bad but dreading the front end as ive spotted that the lower cross member bar has been bodged in the past so not looking forward to removing the bumper and seeing tomorrow

 

[glanrichbex]

Yep - really good advice there - when I took mine off I discovered that it was the plastic trims holding it all together

Scrape and clean down and loads of waxoyl later and there we have it :augie

psychologically waxoil repairs the damage so we don't have to worry about it anymore :thumbs

 

[exosteve]

big letters.....


pictures??????

 

[solarman216]

I have been checking my Mav today, last year I had the front plastic wheel arch trims off, to re do the waxoyl, and they were still in perfect as new condition, so a bit more waxoyl, and leave for a few more years.

Well today I bit the bullet and removed the rear plastic wheel arch trims, on cleaning up, and on close inspection with a bright light, I notice a few imperfections on the edges under the trim, so I scraped off the paint, and noticed some minor surface rust, that if left would have travelled up and past the plastic trim, no wonder they call it tin worm, as looking closely you can see hair like strands behind the paint radiating out, lifting the paint and spreading the rust.

The cure was scrape the loose paint off, sand it down, de grease, then apply two coats of Kurust, then two coats of hammerite, then waxoyl both the inside and the outside, yet again, refit the plastic trim, and wipe off any excess waxoyl.

So this is now sorted, good for another few years.

With a stubby pozidrive screwdriver, I didn't need to remove the wheel or jack it up, 7 screws to remove on my trim, and remove the plastic clips to remove mud.

So if you have ten minutes, whip yours off, have a look, if you catch it early, you won't have to colour match any paint as it's all behind the plastic trim.

I'm suggesting this as many owners have had problems with rusty wings. On the earlier models like mine, rust hasn't got that far to travel beyond the trim, but the later ones have wider trim, and the first time the rust gets this far to be seen, it's often too late, as the metal is holed, and difficult to repair.:doh

Hope this helps, too late for some, but worth a few minutes.:thumb2:thumb2
Prevention is always better than cure, but requires a huge time investment.
Mine has certainly paid off.

Best regards,

Rustic

you really have looked after your motor, I envy you as I do not have the time or patience to do what you have done, well done mate, your T2 deserves to live forever, Rick

 

[Dynamics]

I have been checking my Mav today, last year I had the front plastic wheel arch trims off, to re do the waxoyl, and they were still in perfect as new condition, so a bit more waxoyl, and leave for a few more years.

Well today I bit the bullet and removed the rear plastic wheel arch trims, on cleaning up, and on close inspection with a bright light, I notice a few imperfections on the edges under the trim, so I scraped off the paint, and noticed some minor surface rust, that if left would have travelled up and past the plastic trim, no wonder they call it tin worm, as looking closely you can see hair like strands behind the paint radiating out, lifting the paint and spreading the rust.

The cure was scrape the loose paint off, sand it down, de grease, then apply two coats of Kurust, then two coats of hammerite, then waxoyl both the inside and the outside, yet again, refit the plastic trim, and wipe off any excess waxoyl.

So this is now sorted, good for another few years.

With a stubby pozidrive screwdriver, I didn't need to remove the wheel or jack it up, 7 screws to remove on my trim, and remove the plastic clips to remove mud.

So if you have ten minutes, whip yours off, have a look, if you catch it early, you won't have to colour match any paint as it's all behind the plastic trim.

I'm suggesting this as many owners have had problems with rusty wings. On the earlier models like mine, rust hasn't got that far to travel beyond the trim, but the later ones have wider trim, and the first time the rust gets this far to be seen, it's often too late, as the metal is holed, and difficult to repair.:doh

Hope this helps, too late for some, but worth a few minutes.:thumb2:thumb2
Prevention is always better than cure, but requires a huge time investment.
Mine has certainly paid off.

Best regards,

Rustic

Finally... You have found some rust. :augie

 

[macabethiel]

Treating behind the wheel arch covers !

Good advice Rustic, different motor but same theory next spring I am going to remove the wheel arch liners on my Chrysler and do some Waxoyl treatment before it gets any older and likewise on the Santa Fe. I use Trustran rust remover-it eats the rust and forms a gun blueing type of coating. My old bottle is about empty - had it for years not sure its still available.

The sills are another issue as its often condensation that causes the rot. On my old BMC Mini I filled one of the sills with building foam but caused more problems than it cured as the inside of the sill were like a drain culvert and it slowed down the draining!

 

[rustic]

Finally... You have found some rust. :augie

It all stems from my early years of car ownership in the 70's, cars that were 10 years old were classed as Bangers, and you could pick them up for £40

BUT even cars 3 years old had rotten wings, especially the early Datsuns:doh
I had a 76 Toyota Corolla 1200E, and the tops of both wings rotted through, and the car was only 3 years old. I thought then if only the previous owner had protected it more with underseal...
So this was when it started.
My Mav was a new car, so on day one, out came the waxoyl, the neighbours thought I was mad, with a brand new car, pimples still on the tyres, plastic trim everywhere, headlights on the lawn etc etc...

Well 18 years on it has paid me back.
I did the same with our Austin Ambassador, this was new, and we kept that 13 years, and sold it as it was a bit of a gas guzzler, in fact when people viewed it, they wanted to pay me more than the price to save anyone else buying it.

Best regards,

Rustic

 

[panelbeater]

in my old body shop i came across a load of odd filla to repair and hide but never expanded foam.welding is tough enough without adding to the risks.

 

[micktheshed]

I'm that old (not really! It just seems like it) I can remember the advice in car mags. being to use rolled-up newspaper, in sills & closed cavities, etc. as packing before applying body-filler. I dread to think of the consequences LOL. This would be in the 60's I think, some cars still had spoked wheels!.
As to using Waxoil, I treated a rot-box Viva at 2 years old in 1975, I finally sold it after another 25 years of daily abuse: I don‘t pamper my cars but I do maintain them well, however they have to earn their existence. Although not pristine it was still perfectly road legal.
However, the Waxoil needs to be applied over rust-free metal for long-lasting results otherwise it tends to ‘shed’ complete with a layer of rust. I’m still trying to raise the enthusiasm (after 18 months ownership) to do my 2004 Terrano. If it’s a warm summer……….