rust and how to treat it ?

[jims-terrano]

Is it just surface rust or a bit deeper? Don't forget the rear wheel arches are seatbelt mountings. Personally I couldn't risk it with mine and chose to get them welded to be sure they are strong enough. I often carry my own children and other peoples children in my truck so I feel more comfortable knowing it's solid.

That said I did a lot of treating of surface rust last year. Cleaned off as best I could, an angle grinder can help but can also go too far. Wirebrush seemed good, even a hand held brush is good. Treated with "Cure Rust", then grey primer with a generous coat of under seal.

People have different ideas of treating rust and finishing it, this is just a way that has been successfull for me.

Jim

 

[stinka]

Ok mate cheers.

I'll attack it with a flap wheel in my drill and my DA sander with some 60 grit, primer it, then wax oil

 

[4x4onarret]

Rusty bits!

Hi,

I have used this on my 1971 Beetle that I am currently restoring.
FE-123.
http://www.rust.co.uk/rust-converters.cfm
Has won many group tests and is highly praised in the classic car world.
Bit expensive but you do get a big bottle.
Used it on the Beetle, did exactly as the instructions say and I am very pleased with it.:thumbs

Cheers

Steve.

 

[rustic]

wtf. guys its a 10 year old car, if thats all the rust you can see, then i think you did well. just clean it back to bare metal where rusty and re paint.
geeeeeeez:nenau

We mine is 17 next month, and so far no rust anywhere similar to the original picture.

:augie

 

[stinka]

So I got my 51 plate lwb, and its rot free for the most part. only bit ive found is this:

What would you guys do with that ?

Thinking sand it off with my dual action sander to shiny metal, then treat with rust preventative, then mask it and spray a silver paint back on it ?

Went to attack this today, ended up taking rear arch covers off and rear bumper. Blasted all the rust off to bare shinny metal with an angle grinder and treated with red oxide. Cleaned inner arches with drill mounted wire brush. Had to take about 5 mm off the OSR end of sill to get to shiny, so have filled that with fibreglass filler. Will sand that down and red oxide tommorow, then waxoyl all over it and inside rear arches. Will give the sills a spray of silver where not covered by arch liner, and where red oxide is, silver is not a match but it is better than red oxide lol and u won't really notice when I put side steps back on

There was hardly any rust tbf, was only surface bubbling for 10 yr old it's pretty epic glad I've tackled it now tho

Cleaned sill and wing seam to shiny shiny then red oxide, will sand fibreglass tommoz and red oxide then waxoyl back and outside of arch and all over the inner wheel arch etc. Should keep the metal worm at bay for a while

 

[stinka]

Sills are totally solid all the way, must be down to lack of sunroof

 

[stinka]

Oh and btw I did clean up all the areas i was treating with warm soapy water, all though the sills look filthy I only cleaned where i was treating

 

[Adz]

:thumbs

On the Frog ( as it was an off roader not a shiny ) I filled & glassed the sills :thumbs Solid as solid could be :thumbs

Red oxide rules :bow



Doing the Rat in cammo'd oxide :sly :naughty :augie ( when we have our 1 weekends summer ) with a roller :sly :naughty

Now try rusting ya bar-stu-ad :augie :lol

 

[stinka]

Haha can't beat a ghetto paint job on a solid old offroader

 

[stinka]

Completed this today. Will post pics later.

Very impressed with the hamerite under body seal. It semi dries and feels like rubber, but is dry to touch.

I will take the front arch trims off next and the liners, and see what scabbyness I can find under there

 

[stinka]

Stripped the front end today, started by taking outer plastic wheel arch extensions off. Nothing not even a bubble, well that wasnt good enough so i took off bumper headlights etc and wings, which is a 30 min job absolute piece of piss, suggest anyone that hasn't should do this, and grind off rust or bubbling paint, red oxide the new bare metal, then treat with hamerite under body seal liberally everywhere then put it back togeather with more under body seal as u go

Pics so far :

So all The red oxided bits I took back to shiny shiny, will paint with underbody seal tommoz also will paint lower portion of inner wings with waxoyl/underbody seal and inside of edge of wheel arches and outside under where wheel arch extension goes on.

Shouldn't rot for years now lads

 

[firebobby]

Bloody hell Stinka, you don't mess around do you:thumb2

 

[stinka]

If your doing it do it right ! And honestly to get it this stripped took about 40mins a kid could do it

 

[stinka]

Also invest in a half decent 4" grinder, with a fibrous metal disk and a rinishing disk, the latter being awesome for bubbling paint and the lesser rusted parts, and shinning up the worse bits after you have done the damage with the grinding disk

 

[glanrichbex]

Fix the surface rust and pump some waxoil inside the sills. Clean off the rear arches where the seatbelt mounting is and treat then seal her up. Inside the front arches, clean treat and seal job done.

Jim

I find waste oil sprayed from an old paint gun better than wax oil - it gets in everywhere, soaks through rust and generally slows the process right down. To make it last longer and better penetration mix some hydraulic oil with it.

I find wax oil creates a layer over the rust but does not inhibit corrosion under the rust. Once the white spirit has evaporated out and the wax is hard, it can crack and allow moisture to penetrate under the layer. I have inspected the chassis a year later to find virtually all the waxoil has gone and the rust taken a new lease of life, as much to say washed off

Remember with the Terrano to remove your back light clusters and look down the length the chassis - could be a double edged sword .... who knows what horrors are awaiting for you to discover - but get plenty of oil right in down in there:thumbs