Removing the Bumpers

[wizard101]

I'm still chasing my fuel leak/air in system problem and I am now pretty ceretain that it is corrosion in the fuel lines near the tank. So I need to drop the tank and it looks like this will be easier if I remove the rear bumper. It looks like the bumper is only held on by two bolts - one each side into the chassis rail - is this correct? or are there other fixings that I haven't spotted.
While I am in the mood for bumper removal. I also have a problem with the front bumper which hangs down on the offside and is generally a bit loose. I can't see any fixings on the bumper - does anybody know where the fixings are? Mine is a 94 Mav.
Thanks
Peter

 

[Deleted Member S]

I would think the fittings should be almost the same for the rear bumpers across the age range of the T2/Mav's. I've never checked how the bumper is fully held on but I had to refit the rear bumper at the side & fount that the top of the bumper is held in place with a rubber lug which was near the filler cap. To get the bumper back onto this lug I had to undo & remove the braket for the rear mud flaps.
I don't know if this helps you out abit :roll: but if you remove these bolts for the mud flaps clean them up & oil them as I snaped one of the bolts doing it

 

[Terranosaurus]

There are clips on the inside of the bumpers that hold them to a steel tube framework reinforcer, this is bolted to the chassis rails. You need to remove the four bolts (2 each side) and then all the clips and the rear mudguard mount to pull the bumpers off, they have to slide about 4" back to get the mounts out of the chassis legs.

 

[wizard101]

Thanks for the info chaps. Can I remove the bumper and its metal reinforcement as one piece i.e. without separating them?
Is the same true for the front bumpers?
Thanks
Peter

 

[Terranosaurus]

Thanks for the info chaps. Can I remove the bumper and its metal reinforcement as one piece i.e. without separating them?
Is the same true for the front bumpers?

You pretty much have to - same both ends

 

[wizard101]

Rear bumper off OK. All four bolts holding the mudflap onto the chassis rail sheared so that's another job for the list! Not sure I can see any way of avoiding this problem as the bolts clearly corrode inside the chassis rails where you can't get at them. Main fixing bolts at the end of the rails were also corroded and very tight but at least you can get to these on the inside with the WD40 to ease things up. Apart from that the only problem was the number plate lights - which were really fiddly to get out and disconnect.
I tried to drop the fuel tank (still chasing air in fuel problem) but had to give up as I couldn't shift the fixing bolts on the forward edge of the tank/tank shield. The bolts on the rear edge were also very stiff and, once out, I could see that they had been installed covered in that blue thread locking compound. Presumably the same for the bolts on the forward edge. Does anybody have a trick for softening this thread locking stuff - I would have tried a bit of heat but it didn't seem like a good idea on a leaking fuel tank!!
Peter

 

[Toolbox]

I tried to drop the fuel tank (still chasing air in fuel problem) but had to give up as I couldn't shift the fixing bolts on the forward edge of the tank/tank shield. The bolts on the rear edge were also very stiff and, once out, I could see that they had been installed covered in that blue thread locking compound. Presumably the same for the bolts on the forward edge. Does anybody have a trick for softening this thread locking stuff - I would have tried a bit of heat but it didn't seem like a good idea on a leaking fuel tank!!
Peter

The only thing I have found that works on stud / thread lock is heat but like you say its not a good move around a fuel tank. Your going to have to get them to move and work them in and out with lashings of wd40, you could try brake fluid.

 

[wizard101]

Thanks for the tip, Toolbox. Somebody suggested I might try heat from a heatgun (paint stripping variety) which would be safer than the gas torch I would normally use - but not as hot I guess.
Once again it is the fixings that are most difficult to get to and most essential to remove in one piece that are the problem. Sod never sleeps!
Peter

 

[JonathanM]

Is there any access to the top of the fuel tank from any access panels in the boot/rear seat area? Just might be possible to get the access you need that way. I know some cars have this facility, not sure about ours though.

 

[Terranosaurus]

Is there any access to the top of the fuel tank from any access panels in the boot/rear seat area?

There is on mine, remove plastic strip at bottom of rear door aperture, pull carpet up and unbolt panel, 4 10mm head bolts, very similar to the mud flap mount ones both in size and in the fact that they shear due to rust.

An impact gun (if you have one) can be handy to help ease out all these difficult to remove bolts.

 

[wizard101]

Managed to get the inspection plate in the rear floor up no problem - no more sheared bolts I am glad to say! What I can see and reach through that hole is all OK, but there is obviously fuel on top of the tank so its getting out somewhere - hence my project to drop the tank to get a better look at the fuel lines, which I understand are prone to corroding in this area.
OK on the impact wrench. I only have the sort you hit with a hammer and can't get enough oomph into it lying under the motor. Now a nice air driven one would probably do it in seconds but that means paying somebody else to do it! A last resort.
Peter