Rear diff/clutch slip, advise needed

[bud]

Two different Alex's....:lol:augie

still applies.

And in this case the GB may still have to come off as the next thing is the pressure plate is no longer providing friction anymore.

 

[AlexD333]

I might have to visit someone for this :augie

Im not good at getting that hands on.

if what you are suggesting is true, would it still pull like a train in a straight line?

ta

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Have you still got your Clutch Peddle problem?

At Christmas, trying to pull out of a side road with a steep up hill, onto a Narrow Welsh lane, a young lady came round the bend a bit too fast, and I had to do an emergency stop. It was one of those "Hit Everything" moments, and then let the car roll back out of her path. After she passed, I went to go again, and being lazy, just went from brake to biting point with out using the hand brake. The car started to roll back on the hill, and you could feel the clutch slipping. On instinct, for some reason I lifted the clutch peddle with my foot, which is a habit I have got into since driving the T2, and the car lurched forward and stalled.

I discovered then that when the clutch peddle does not return to the very top, under extreme conditions it can slip, even though the biting point is a lot lower than that.

Never done it since.

 

[AlexD333]

Hmm this may sound daft but could you of put the 4wd lever in to neutral perhaps?

Could the slip just be the rear wheels slipping whilst turning, try changing rear diff oil as it won't do any harm.

rear diff oil is new, done with rick only 2 months ago.

its defo the right stuff too :thumb2 rick would confirm

 

[rustic]

...it's a video of me going around in circles backwards :lol

No change there then...:nena
Sorry couldn't resist that one.

Well if the clutch is slipping, and there is no burning smell, then it could mean a contaminated clutch.

Isn't there a drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing:nenau

Check it's clear, just in case any water has got in there, have a look at what comes out.
Caution... there should be normal clutch dust in there, so don't breath it...

Oil is a possibility too
Let's hope not that.

Also check the 4wheel drive lever is going into the correct position, as there is also a neutral position between 4 High and 4 Low.
Normally it is clear and obvious where it is, but if you have had a body lift or gearbox out in the past, there might be something loose or not aligned correctly.

best regards,

Rustic

 

[rustic]

Have you still got your Clutch Peddle problem?

At Christmas, trying to pull out of a side road with a steep up hill, onto a Narrow Welsh lane, a young lady came round the bend a bit too fast, and I had to do an emergency stop. It was one of those "Hit Everything" moments, and then let the car roll back out of her path. After she passed, I went to go again, and being lazy, just went from brake to biting point with out using the hand brake. The car started to roll back on the hill, and you could feel the clutch slipping. On instinct, for some reason I lifted the clutch peddle with my foot, which is a habit I have got into since driving the T2, and the car lurched forward and stalled.

I discovered then that when the clutch peddle does not return to the very top, under extreme conditions it can slip, even though the biting point is a lot lower than that.

Never done it since.

I wonder if the speed of pressing the clutch pedal let fluid past the seals in the master cylinder, or slave, due the the much higher pressure, thus changing the biting point.

Solution... put into neutral, then press the clutch pedal a few times, maybe even lift the pedal with your foot might sort it.

Could it be failing seals, worn bore, after all you have rubber moving against metal under pressure... something must wear. Then you wonder why the clutch fluid is dark.

Hands up...
When was the last time we all changed our clutch fluid?:nenau

Did mine 2-3 years ago, but prior to that it was much longer...:augie

Rustic

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

I wonder if the speed of pressing the clutch pedal let fluid past the seals in the master cylinder, or slave, due the the much higher pressure, thus changing the biting point.

Solution... put into neutral, then press the clutch pedal a few times, maybe even lift the pedal with your foot might sort it.

Could it be failing seals, worn bore, after all you have rubber moving against metal under pressure... something must wear. Then you wonder why the clutch fluid is dark.

Hands up...
When was the last time we all changed our clutch fluid?:nenau

Did mine 2-3 years ago, but prior to that it was much longer...:augie

Rustic

Highly possible.

Funny you should mention changing the clutch fluid, I was always told that it, along with the brake fluid should be changed every 4 years, so tend to do it when I get a car, and then regularly after that.

I did mine along with pretty much all the other fluids just before the MOT, a few weeks ago, as I also wanted to make sure everything was good after all the wading in the floods I did. I did notice that the clutch fluid was darker in colour, and had a small amount of black sludge in the collection bottle, making it very different to what came out of the brake circuit, and wondered what it might be. It was done before that, when I first got the car 2 years ago, as I had to replace the slave cylinder and the flexible hose.

Will have to keep an eye on the Master cylinder now.:bow