rear brake drum

[wildbri]

decided to check my rear brakes, took off drivers side wheel and drum, there is some oil about so I guess the axle oil seal will have to be replaced before MOT time.

Near side, took off wheel but could not move drum. The two holes that take the bolts to push off the drum are stripped of their thread, I tried warming up the drum but it wouldn't move.

I thought I would buy two blunt nose taps and drive them in, cutting a thread and then pushing the drum off or I could fit a couple of helli coils instead, what do you think? any ideas?

regards bri

 

[Adz]

1.Sure its not a cylinder gone.?

2.Tap n Dy or as you've said





Failing that you'll need heat or i could pop over with me grinder :augie pmsl :lol

 

[tezzer]

try releasing the hand brake cable first, then give the drum a good twatting with a copper hammer, normally works.:thumb2:lol

 

[wildbri]

thank you gentlemen I will give that a try... bri

 

[Derek]

a way with words lol good twatting with a hammer if at 1st u dont sucseed hit it :lol

 

[tezzer]

it's either twatting it or adz will be there with his grinder, and i can assure you dont want that, have you seen his truck, i think it started life as LWB, :lol:thumb2

 

[Derek]

ive got a nieghbour like that wot ever he buys has to be attacked with a grinder
just never lend him my jeep or let him near it id have no arches left !!!!!!!!!!
think u cud be right twat it grinder not the best option this time !!!!!!!!!!

 

[Adz]

it's either twatting it or adz will be there with his grinder, and i can assure you dont want that, have you seen his truck, i think it started life as LWB, :lol:thumb2

:doh

:jesterbg


:thumbs

 

[macabethiel]

The hammer twatting usually works just be carefull afterwards because the ringing in your ears can make you loose balance !

Don't forget to rotate the wheel as you give it some welly.

 

[rustic]

I don't think a tap would help you remove the drum, they are brittle, then you will have to find a way to remove the tap when it breaks.

Inject loads of release agent (plus gas, penetrating oil, WD40) into the 2 stripped holes, rotate drum several times and inject again. Leave for a reasonable time, even overnight.
You could make a funnel around the hole out of plastercine to act as a resevoir for the release agent. You could get oil on the brake shoes this way so be aware.

You need to release the hand brake adjuster, under the plastic squab around the handbrake, disconnect the electric window connectors then use a 10mm spanner to back off the cable.

You could use a piece of softwood between the hammer and the drum if you don't have a copper mallet. Do not hit the drum directly with a normal hammer as it could fracture.

When you have removed the drum, retap the drum to say M10, although an 8mm helicoil sounds better. When you reassemble, put a very small coating of copper slip on the mating surfaces of the drum.



Regarding the other drum, if it is oil, then the bearing may have gone first which then destroys the seal. This is what happened to mine. The seal was first replaced but that also leaked, so the bearing and seal were replaced and all sorted.


Best regards, Rustic

 

[wildbri]

Thank you Rustic for all that information, I have been out and about today, a nice walk in the sunshine along the newly renovated promenade from Morecambe to Heysham. If it's fine tomorrow I will OIL IT and TWATT IT, thats after I have slackend the handbrake. regards bri