RD 28 top end strip

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It is 8.5mm x 6mm and sits in the piston like this with the shims on the top, the others I make will be a little longer on the 6mm section to allow for more shims if needed, Rick
 

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Hot starting is a bit hit & miss. Sometimes she fires up first time but other times it can take up to 5 minutes to get her started. It spins normally when hot or cold starting.

Just been reading on the AU forums about an "advance plate" seen them advertised but did not know for why you would need one, well it seems they are a cure for poor hot starting, worth looking into, Rick
 
More checking and the original plate has a recess for the advance spring to sit in, the plate on offer is the opposite in that it has a circular protrusion that goes into the aperture in the pump clearly to increase the pressure on the spring against the advance control piston, so I see no reason to purchase their expensive plate when a disk of metal will do the same job, Rick
 
Sorted all the shims and valve clearances today after making these little fellers to stop the shims moving about, 12 took about 45 mins, cam shaft back in finish off tomorrow, and going to look at this advance plate gismo while the cam cover is off giving better access, Rick
 

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Looks good Rick.

I will have a look at the advance plate you mentioned.

Out of interest. You have spot welded the holes closed and made some shim washers. While this solves the issues you are having but what is the root cause? (Worn lifters/valve springs etc.)

Please don’t understand me wrong Rick, I think that you have done a brilliant job and I like the way you came up with a fix.
 
No you are correct FT, I have for the time being solved the problem, but still at a loss as to what caused it in the first place, I suspect oil pressure as it is the only thing that could effect all 6 cylinders at the same time but until I can get the sender out and put in a gauge I am stuck, cannot get it out from the top and my hoist is occupied by another motor for now, if you have a cam mounted vac pump I will still be interested in your pump lube result, yes I will pay you to remove the cam cover, re the advance plate, I took mine off today and it does not match the pics in the manual, clearly there are different pump variations, should have mine back on the road tomorrow, I will try and take a pic or two of how to stop oil going everywhere when I run mine up with the cam cover off, Rick
 
Sorry FT I just realised you only need to remove the VAC pump to test the oil squirt, 4 nuts and some hoses, if you want to see how mine is have a look at my other thread "can anyone explain this on an RD28t", Rick
 
Rick, there is absolutely no need to pay me to do anything. If I can help you then I will, without money changing hands. What would this forum become if we have to pay for the help of our fellow forum members?

I will have a look at your other thread and get it sorted for you. Just to manage expectations it will most likely not be till next Wednesday. Snow is in the forecast for us and we are picking up a new dog on Monday or Tuesday. So I need to make sure that the Patrol is up and running then. Just in case I break something and need to get replacement parts in.

Edit: had a quick look and it should be a fairly simple operation. As soon as I can get hold of a vacuum pump seal, I will pull it apart.
 
Rick, there is absolutely no need to pay me to do anything. If I can help you then I will, without money changing hands. What would this forum become if we have to pay for the help of our fellow forum members?

I will have a look at your other thread and get it sorted for you. Just to manage expectations it will most likely not be till next Wednesday. Snow is in the forecast for us and we are picking up a new dog on Monday or Tuesday. So I need to make sure that the Patrol is up and running then. Just in case I break something and need to get replacement parts in.

Edit: had a quick look and it should be a fairly simple operation. As soon as I can get hold of a vacuum pump seal, I will pull it apart.

They are a rubber coated metal plate, I have had mine off loads of times and it has not leaked at all, Rick
 
RE the current job is all back together and engine hot still got 450 compressions but still a tad slow to hot start, tinkered with the pump last knockings and seems to have improved, everyday running will tell, Rick
 
Cheers Rick, it proves a pain to get a vacuum pump seal on its own. But if they are good to re-use then I will whip it off next week a take some photo’s of the oil jet for you.
 
Thanks FT will look forward to the results, it may just explain what is going on, Rick
 
Latest news from me is I am now looking at injector pump, thinking I will be stripping it down myself as recon prices are around a grand, no way will I be spending that, and before you say, yes I have stripped and rebuilt more complicated pumps than this one, main problem will be sourcing parts if needed, Rick
 
But I have to say I have yet to find a pump diagram that illustrates my pump in full detail, all so far have minor but important detail differences, so cannot consider stripping the pump till I find a diagram for my specific model, and now I have it running reasonable after a few fiddles will probably not do much till the warmer weather arrives, Rick
 
As far as I can tell at the mo it is a Zexel/Bosch VE, but it has a 3 wire stop solenoid "big lump" instead of the round 1 wire one and the advance plate thingy has 2 springs one inside the other operating separate pistons, I can see numbers on the pump but in situ no chance of reading them, might try an endoscope, when I get time, Rick
 
I have the Zexel/Bosch VE pump with 1 wire going to the stop solenoid.

The guy’s at Diesel Injection Pumps were very helpful when I needed a new stop solenoid a few years ago. Might be worthwhile giving them a call.
 

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