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SteveN

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
98
The other day the alternator on the Mistral packed up, got a new one from the local motor factors and fitted it, now I haven't hardly any electrics, no ignition circuits, no dash warning lights the only thing it will do is turn the starter motor over !

It has a Toad transponder fitted and I think I might have confused it, or worse, unless anyone knows different, has this happened to anyone ?

cheers
Steve
 
looks like alarm needs reprogramming,after taking attery off.
 
toad is a make of alarm rick

Ah thanks Pete for putting me out of my misery, I did wonder about Alarm but name just did not sound right, so yes sounds like the alarm needs reprogramming, this is the trick with alarms they let you turn the motor over even allowing it to fire and stop so giving the impression that there is a mechanical fault to deter the uninitiated thief, Rick
 
Hi everyone, I've got a feeling its the immobiliser thats causing the problem. for Rick its a little black plastic thing that hangs on the keyring and must transmit/recieve signals as you get in the car.

Ive had the battery off before and not had a problem. So I have left it overnight with the battery disconnected again just to see if that clears it, if not I will have to try and find the piece of paper with the serial number on it,they will not answer any questions without it.

Failing that I will have to try and find the box inside the dash and disable it.

Why does it always happen when you need the bloody car ?

cheers

Steve
 
Funny enough thats what I thought but cant find a blown one

cheers

Steve

There is a fusible link in the wiring loom, rated at 60~80 Amps, odds on it is that.
Its close to battery & engine coolant bottle.
 
Why does it always happen when you need the bloody car ?

For the same reason, if you loose something, it's always in the last place you look...:doh :nenau

If you didn't use the car, you wouldn't know there was a problem. :lol
 
Hi everyone, well,

had a good look this morning, its not the immobiliser, (I think ) but no ign feed to the relays in the fusebox on the heavy white wire with a black tracer. If I link in a live everything comes on good as gold. Having said that a voltmeter across the battery still shows no charge even with the new alternator, would the fusible link stop it from charging ?

cheers
Steve
 
Hi everyone, well,

but no ign feed to the relays in the fusebox on the heavy white wire with a black tracer. If I link in a live everything comes on good as gold. Having said that a voltmeter across the battery still shows no charge even with the new alternator, would the fusible link stop it from charging ?

cheers
Steve
Yes the fusible link would do just that, it certainly connects the battery to the alternator & glow plugs etc....
From memory it looks just like a piece of cable with some sleeving over it, hard to spot if you don't know it's there!
 
another member had this issue recently and it's all in that thread, if only i could remember who, was it locteau? :nenau
 
Here's some clips from the manual:
It is likely that when your alternator went west it took out this fuse.
 

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And the gold medal of the week goes to.......drum roll.......rayf

I found the fusible link and although it tested ok with a multimeter I put a brifge wire in to test it, and everything works and a healthy charge at the battery as well.

Thanks for everyones input, it all helps.

Yesterday my wife spoke to the company that makes the Toad immobilisers, they told her it is not programmable, if you can find it you could check the soldered joints and the aeriel (its a wire loop wrapped around the ign barrel ) other than that the only other option is to pay a £150 call out fee and have the whole lot removed. What they didn't say is that there is an online fuse in the wiring harness !

all I need now is a new fusible link, oh and put most of the wiring back together behind the fusebox !

cheers
Steve
 
Problem with this type of fuse, being designed to carry ~80A is that when they "blow" there is a lot of vaporised copper around and if you test it with your average DVM it only needs micro amps to show up as good; hence the need to test it with something that actually draws some reasonable amount of current, eg. a test lamp.

Pleased to hear you finally got it sorted:thumbs
 
Not half as pleased as I am, I have got a test lamp but my oldest son decided that it should live outside for a while and is now very rusty inside.

cheers
Steve
 

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