Number one injector needle sensor error 34

[Goatmaster]

In limp mode changed MAF but still the same, so shorted the little block thing and got error code 34. Changed fuel filter which needed doing but engine check light still on. (Old version of diagnostics so paperclip has to stay in place to give flash code and cannot it seems wipe error.)

So checked the resistance across the connectors for the needle sensor on first injector and get a reading of 903 ohms.

Is the sensor stuffed?
Or once I manage to connect up the laptop and reset code is it likely to be OK?

My money is on the sensor being stuffed TBH.
As such does anyone out there have one for sale?

 

[Goatmaster]

Although, another thought, if this needle valve sensor is only there to provide a means of fine tuning the timing, has anyone tried simply connecting up a 100 ohm resistor as a rough and ready work around?

 

[Goatmaster]

Although, another thought, if this needle valve sensor is only there to provide a means of fine tuning the timing, has anyone tried simply connecting up a 100 ohm resistor as a rough and ready work around?

No good it seems as already been done, found on a South African 4x4 forum. They got it to start using a 105ohm resister but it would randomly go into limp.

 

[solarman216]

Bosch or Zexell, think I have a Bosch one on the shelf, ifirc they are a pizzo device, so normally you will not get any reading with a meter, similarly a resistor will not work, the ECU is looking for a spike which it is not getting, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

If you need it testing and rebuilding I can recommend Diesel Bob UK Ltd. £8 to test and £35 to repair. If it needs repairing the test fee will be waived.

Just had all my injectors tested and repaired by them.

 

[Goatmaster]

Thank you both for your replies.

It's a Bosch, at least as far as I can tell. If I have Bosch MAF, then will it be Bosch pump and injectors. Round electrics screw on connector from pump so again I think Bosch.

From what I have read it is the Zexell that are the piezo not the Bosch.

Thanks for the diesel Bob advice but it is the needle level sensor that appears to be the problem not the injector per se, so I don't think Diesel Bob can fix. I have found reference to someone who has attempted it but they reported only one out of the four they have done worked.

Weird thing is just drove the car after it being stood up for an hour. Check light came back on immediately as soon as it started so I revved hard and it went out. Drove for 3 miles with no problems, really responsive thanks no doubt to clean filter. All good.

So I thought I would check the resistance again to see if it was around the 100 ohms as it should be. Nope 740 and climbing. Waited until it reached 845 about 1ohm per second then tried the car again. Check light back on and in limp mode. No amount of wire waggling helped. So checked again. Resistance this time dropping!

Been a long day so further investigation will have to be tomorrow but I wonder just how much air in fuel is required before that is the culprit. Although my gut feeling is that it is too on and off to be anything but electrical.

 

[solarman216]

I will look out my Bosch injector tomorrow and check it out, Rick

 

[Flying Torquewrench]

Sorry Goatmaster, I should read before responding.

Good luck getting it sorted.

 

[Goatmaster]

So a quick update as it may help someone if I can provide as much info as possible.
Left the car stood up all day then connected up ACUtalk to clear fault codes. As soon as the dash lights came up there was no engine check light. Read error codes and cleared the NLS number 34 and ABS 87 (next on the list). Happily read all the gauges whilst revving the engine. After about 15mins of this thought I'd risk a quick drive. Drove around for a mile or so, absolutely perfect no problems what do ever. Then as soon as I pulled up into the curb (low curb at that) the check engine light came on. Checked code and 34 as before plus the ABS back again.

So seemingly immediate illumination of the error due to the slight bump but then the ABS came on at the same time so maybe there is an accumulating of errors effect. Again temperature seems to be having an influence too but at the moment I cannot differentiate between temp and increased resistance and temp and flexibility of connecting wires.

 

[TOSKA]

I have gotten through 2 of these sensors in 13 years

I could not find any repair service anywhere

The error can send you off on all sorts of false checks on the MAF / crank sensor / and even the electronic accelerator pedal (I know , it did for me ! )

Like you the problem for me gave crazy readings and was intermittant

BOSCH part number is 0432 217 306 for the No. 1 injector and sensor ( they come complete )

usual price is a crazy £350 quid or so !!!!

there is a polish supplier on fleabay that sometimes offers new old stock at around £150

I cannot believe this is the only vehicle to use this part, but have been unable to find another vehicle in all my efforts

The part would seem to be critical to the future life of the truck .
All the best in sourcing one

TOSKA

 

[Goatmaster]

Cheers Toska. Solarman216 is having a rummage around for one he may have for me, if not I have tracked a few new ones down on the net. If you look hard enough a new genuine Bosch can be found for under £140 delivered. They were also available on Amazon for £122 but sold out. Mind you even that low it still hurts!

Still thanks for your input as it makes a feel a bit better about giving up , facing the inevitable and laying out the cash.

 

[TOSKA]

Good Luck with it

I was not convinced that it was the injector sensor ...... and even took the accelerator pedal resistance block to pieces ( and re-built ! ) before committing the cash

.... The relief when I fitted new and it worked was ... GREAT !!

TOSKA

 

[Goatmaster]

I am pretty much convinced that it has to be the sensor. My dread is that I replace the thing and find that it is a broken external wire.

Tried it again late last night so engine was cool but not cold. Check light on when started. Revved hard but stayed on. Drove off limping but within 200m check light off and full acceleration up hill. Braked at the junction and limp mode back on again or was it the deceleration before braking? So difficult to be exact when it takes so long between attempts.

I am going to investigate further today, starting with an attempt to read resistance first.

 

[elty001]

A good bosch no 1 injector should give a reading of around 100 ohms.
I wouldn't trust any type of diagnostic reader if it's not Nissan consult.
I've always shorted the terminals on the diagnostic plug and counted the eml flashes and never had a false fault code reading :thumb2

 

[Goatmaster]

So been testing things again. Cold engine pre starting resistance all over the place from 800 to 8000 ohms not really influenced by wire waggling. Cleared fault codes from last night, more waffling and resistance reading. Error only occurring if plug disconnected.

Started up, all fine, a mile into run and check light on, hard rev and out again. Then back on. Returned home and once parked hard revving and light out. Cleared error logs. Then whilst reading the gauges in EcUtalk error back timing gauge on PC stuck and no amount of revving cured it. 20 mins of wire waggling and attempting to clear codes made no difference so fault would appear to be internal to the injector probably the coil.

I have Consult and did attempt to use it but it failed to connect, ECUtalk has been fine so far. I also did the flash test first. AFAIK being a 1998 Consult may not work - please correct me if I am wrong.

Now to my question- as the resistance can it seem be 80 times higher than it should be and still start and give no error code is this down to the fact that the ECO is happy until there is a lack of pulse from the MPS when there should be one. OR is the crazy resistance range due to the fact that I have Zexell as suggested by Nick and being pies resistance doesn't count?

Am I right in believing that if I have Bosch MAF then the pump too will be Bosch?

 

[Fez_uk]

Am I right in believing that if I have Bosch MAF then the pump too will be Bosch?

yes

 

[Goatmaster]

Thank you Fez
Just been studying a few online photos and had come to the same conclusion but it is so much better when someone can confirm what you believe is true. My problem is only having had the car for a year I am still very much a newbie.

So I think I am now at the point of accepting the thing is well and truly stuffed, no easy broken wire fix and nothing else can be blamed. I think the resistance being all over the place says it all and rules out air in fuel.

 

[Banshee]

Thank you Fez
Just been studying a few online photos and had come to the same conclusion but it is so much better when someone can confirm what you believe is true. My problem is only having had the car for a year I am still very much a newbie.

So I think I am now at the point of accepting the thing is well and truly stuffed, no easy broken wire fix and nothing else can be blamed. I think the resistance being all over the place says it all and rules out air in fuel.

Think I have a Bosch No1 Injector in the spares box for off roading, it's taped to the open sided 27mm socket to remove it from memory.

You can happily try mine for the price of postage if you want to prove out that yours is screwed mate?

 

[solarman216]

Yes if you have a Bosch MAF then you have Bosch injectors, a good needle lift sensor should read 104 ohms, I found my one and tested it and it is good,(moving the needle produces differing OHM readings) but the nozzle is rubbish, you are welcome to it for the cost of postage, if so PM me, Rick

 

[Goatmaster]

You can happily try mine for the price of postage if you want to prove out that yours is screwed mate?

Many thanks but Rick has found something serviceable for me.