My Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD

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The weather has slowed things down a bit, I have a list of jobs, but the cold and rain is ruining play...

Having said that, I got a chance to take her out in the snow the other night, and I was very impressed. A very sure footed beast. At one point I had to pull off the single track road into a field gateway for a snow plough. The snow was about 3" deep, but the snow plough kindly pushed the cleared snow onto my side of the road creating a bank about 8" deep. As far as the Jeep was concerned, it may as well been a normal dry road.

So when not out playing in the snow, I have taken the opportunity to do some prep work for some of the many jobs that still need doing, like getting the extra parts I need for the PMR, so I can mount the unit under the seat, but have the control panel still visible. The bits needed to fit the second battery, I also made up a way to mount my LED roof light on the roof rails, which entailed a fair bit of work in the garage.

First I made a template out of wood, and once it was how I wanted, I set to work making it out of Aluminium

Rooflightmount1.jpg


Rooflightmount2.jpg


Rooflightmount3.jpg


These are the stainless steel mounts that will be fixed to them.

Rooflightmount4.jpg


I spent a while cleaning everything up, anodised the aluminium bits, and then painted them black.

Rooflightmount5.jpg


Once everything was dry, I fixed them into the roof channels using the existing front screw hole. I also used some sealant to protect the aluminium from the issues of putting dissimilar metals in contact.

Rooflightmount6.jpg


The mounts then bolt to the adaptor.

Rooflightmount7.jpg


Finally, a picture with the roof light fitted. This was just a temporary assembly, as I will be re-spraying the roof light. I had it fitted to my T2, and this is a very good one, purchased from America, before everyone started selling the cheap ones with only half the light output. I have had it for 6 years, so the aluminium has gone a bit crusty in places. I will finish rubbing it back, then grit blast the fiddly ends, before giving it a new coat of paint.

Rooflightmount8.jpg


The orange beacon and the remote spot light are on a Thule Aero roof bar, and can be taken off when not in use. I use them when doing SE4x4 Response work. The car is off to be vetted tonight, so it needs to be on the top for that, then I can take it back off again until I need it. or unless we get some more snow, and I get to go out and play.
 
Good work Clive!!!!!!

I know exactly what you mean about the weather stopping play!!! By the time I'm home from work and changed it's pitch black, freezing cold and usually raining as well just to p*ss me off even further :doh
 
Good bit of Bracketry !!

Not sure if its a proper word but great Bracketry in your pics.
 
You need to start your own 'pimp my ride' business.

Quality workmanship again :thumbs
 
Thanks guys... but best leave trying to make a business out of this, as today I took 2 steps back....

I made a stainless steel bracket for the PMR antenna, to mount it in the edge of the boot. All was going well, but there was a small bit of trim on the tailgate that was just touching the coax cable. I looked at it, and decided that as it was on the inside of the boot lid, but outside of the weather seal, I could trim it a little to give me a little more clearance and protect the coax from being crushed or rubbed through.

So out came the dremel, with a small grinder, and a nice little arch was made to clear the coax. Perfect, everything fitted a dream...

I carried on running the coax in through a grommet, and feeding it own the inside trim.

Some time later, having tidied up, I went to shut the boot, but this time, I used the button inside the boot to close it automatically... bummer, it no longer works...

First thought were I had pulled the cable off the switch when I had removed the trim, so took that out again, only to find everything was good there. I then back tracked over things I had done, and eventually discovered that bit of plastic trim I had er.. "trimmed", is in fact a "pinched finger" sensor and my nice little arch had now cut it into 2 bits...

Worse still, I can only get a replacement from Germany, and it is just over £100.... Second hand!!! Big Ouch...

I have spent this evening carefully working out how it works, using a scalpel to gently trim it up, and gain access to the very thin wires, and then re-join them, with copious amounts of liquid insulation, and heat shrink... Fingers crossed it works when I put it back on the car tomorrow...
 
I have never had a car with all these gadgets before... I will have to be a bit more careful in the future, as it does seem to be full of sensors and not all plastic bits are exactly what they seem.

This finger pinch sensor is very clever, it's looks like a semi hard plastic tube about 6mm in diameter. But it is in fact two "C" shapes joined with a thin rubber strip on each side. The inside of each of the "C"'s is solid, and has a conductive coating, so with a minimal touch, the rubber walls crush, and the centre of the two "C"'s touch, sending a signal to tell the boot to re-open. The clever thing is, it effectively detects 4 states. A high resistance (10K ohms) when it is normal, a lower one (300 ohms) when it is shorted, but if it is actually open circuit, or short circuit, the car can tell the sensor is not connected, so won't shut the boot.
 
So where do the Sunglasses go ??

Both of us wear prescription glasses, and they are photochromic, so never use sunglasses.

Actually, the Photochromic does not work in the car, as they need UV to darken, and the windscreen blocks it out, but so far I have never needed sunglasses in a car in all the years I have ben driving... well apart from when I used to drive the company Peugeot's, but then they were as a disguise... :lol
 
Nice to catch up on your projects Clive, looks a really nice motor and I really have to complement you on your workmanship. A pity about the set back of the sensor, hope you managed to fix it.

Jim
 
Nice to catch up on your projects Clive, looks a really nice motor and I really have to complement you on your workmanship. A pity about the set back of the sensor, hope you managed to fix it.

Jim

Cheers Jim... Good to have you back.. :grouphug

I fitted the sensor/trim back, and fortunately my boot now closes its self again... :clap:clap

While fixing it, I took the opportunity to lengthen the link wires, so I could pass them well clear of the antenna mount as well, so as some one once said (I can't remember who though), "Jobs a Good Un"... :thumbs

Here are some pictures of the mount that caused the problems.

First off, I fitted the m4 rivnuts, which were fitted with sealant around them.
Antennamount1.jpg


I lined the back of the bracket with a stick on foam, then using more sealant, fixed the bracket in place..
Antennamount2.jpg


running the cable up the inside of the gully
Antennamount3.jpg


and through the grommet, with a bit more sealant.
Antennamount4.jpg


I then spent a bit of time (lots actually) stopping the boot from self-closing and then even more time rectifying this error!!:doh

Antenna bracket in place
Antennamount5.jpg


Antenna mounted.
Antennamount6.jpg
 
I have to admit I find it easier to just put arials up on the roof, and I figure if I need to remove I can just put a plastic bung in there as not seen by most.

Kind regards

Russell.
 

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How would you compare the GC with the Commander, a neighbour has the
latter and must say there is something about its boxyness.

Am quite tempted if strayed from Nissan to atleast have some 4x4 heritage.
 
Nice mount Clive but does it swr in OK as it seems to lack ground plane, Rick
 
I'd like to ask where you got the stainless bowls for your trailer sockets:D
 
I have to admit I find it easier to just put aerials up on the roof, and I figure if I need to remove I can just put a plastic bung in there as not seen by most.

Kind regards

Russell.

I found the problem with it on the roof is when you go into multi-story car parks.

I used to have one of those bayonet quick release things, but not only do they mess up the SWR, don't make the best connections, but I struggle to reach it in the middle of a lifted T2 roof as well, and I hope to lift the jeep at some point..

I broke the quick release just going into a car park with a height limit on the way in when I had it up on the roof, so since then, I have put them down lower and just let them Boing and bong along the roof of the car park...


How would you compare the GC with the Commander, a neighbour has the
latter and must say there is something about its boxyness.

Am quite tempted if strayed from Nissan to at least have some 4x4 heritage.

I can't compare the two as I have only driven the GC. I must admit I love it so far... it's a real luxury car rather than the ruggedness of the T2, and seems very able... It has nice little touches, like the front lower bumper is held on by turn buckles, so you can take it off to improve your approach angle. I just hope it is a reliable as the T2 was up until the last few months.

Nice mount Clive but does it swr in OK as it seems to lack ground plane, Rick

Took the words right out of my mouth, I was going to ask that exact question

I never had a problem with my CB antenna being on a corner, could get it down to 1.3, and when I had it on the bull bar of the T2, I got it down to 1.4.

I am not sure how the SWR works on these PMR aerials though, they set them up by measuring the length of the whip, rather than using a meter, so perhaps the higher frequencies are not so critical.


I'd like to ask where you got the stainless bowls for your trailer sockets:D

Ebay.... There are a few different types, Aluminium, plastic, and Stainless, but I have only found one place selling the shallow ones, which are perfect for this use.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Cup-Drink-Holder-Stand-for-Marine-Boat-Car-Truck-Camper-RV/173432644540?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Drink-Holder-for-Marine-Car-Truck-Camper-RV-Polished/153309589259?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Nice mount Clive but does it swr in OK as it seems to lack ground plane, Rick

From my perspective I would say if that stainless bracket arrangement is bolted via the rivnuts it should be a half reasonable grounding for the antenna. If the rivnuts were ally you may get corrosion build up that can cause problems perhaps. You may also get inductance basically working theoretically in a similar manner to a magmount.

Sometimes what you get in reality totally defies theory too.
 
From my perspective I would say if that stainless bracket arrangement is bolted via the rivnuts it should be a half reasonable grounding for the antenna. If the rivnuts were ally you may get corrosion build up that can cause problems perhaps. You may also get inductance basically working theoretically in a similar manner to a magmount.

Sometimes what you get in reality totally defies theory too.

Nice you are back helping out, I was always under the impression that at least a foot sq ground plane was required to pull the wave, ie if your antenna was on say a gutter mount then the wave would be predominantly pulled to the roof direction and much less transmittance to the opposite side and this would apply to reception as well, however in my experience even with a 100 amp burner I might not be able to chat with a mate that I could see in front of me only say 500 mtrs but some times able to correspond with a guy in Birmingham when I was in a services around Coventry, have to add all this was on 27 am in the 70's, Rick
 

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