MoT failure - advice needed re facelift hubs

[lacroupade]

Well wifeys MkIII failed its MoT on a dodgy front wheel bearing, so was expecting a bill of around £120....bad news is that it seems the bearing was allowed to slop around because of what the garage described as a 'cage' of some kind that holds the bearing - each bit is threaded and the threads are shagged apparently.

I need to go and see whats what tomorrow morning (its in bits on the ramp at the mo) and the manual doesn't help because it turns out it seems to be for MkII because the fixed hub arrangement isn't covered in there, just auto hubs and I'm not sure if the setup is different between the two.

Just wondered therefore if anyone had an informed opinion they could offer in terms of what I need to look for? I've asked the guy to see what the cost of a new part would be but I'm assuming a MkII half shaft won't fit because of the later hub configuration?

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

hey ref fixed hubs, could manuals be retro fitted, the 'hole' in the rim
looks a good size.

seems crazy that everything is buzzing away for nothing, only real
benefit is as its spinning at same speed shift on the fly should be
possible at higher road speeds. frankly its only a different transfer
box with centre diff away from being full time 4wd, or a hybrid like
the shoguns n pathfinders have, now thats a project.

cant believe that all that front end spinning for no reason on the road
is good for noise or the truck.

i realise the mpg argument and simplicity of operation, minus auto hub
failure. but surely wear n tear n noise would be reduced as i'm finding
the mk4 has fairly aggressive tyres which i'm sure are sending a lot of
vibration up the front drive train.

btw cant see shafts differing as surely the hub is beyond the cv joint?

 

[lacroupade]

hey ref fixed hubs, could manuals be retro fitted, the 'hole' in the rim
looks a good size.

seems crazy that everything is buzzing away for nothing, only real
benefit is as its spinning at same speed shift on the fly should be
possible at higher road speeds. frankly its only a different transfer
box with centre diff away from being full time 4wd, or a hybrid like
the shoguns n pathfinders have, now thats a project.

cant believe that all that front end spinning for no reason on the road
is good for noise or the truck.

i realise the mpg argument and simplicity of operation, minus auto hub
failure. but surely wear n tear n noise would be reduced as i'm finding
the mk4 has fairly aggressive tyres which i'm sure are sending a lot of
vibration up the front drive train.

btw cant see shafts differing as surely the hub is beyond the cv joint?

I think mpg is actually a bit worse TBH.....hopefully it will make more sense when I see the bits; I just can't make the diagram tie up with what the bloke was telling me....

 

[mowerman]

The only bit I can think of which is threaded is the actual wheel bearing locknut? As stated above the only difference is the 'fixed' hub just fits onto the splined driveshaft and bolts to the wheel hub - hence the permenant drive..... the locknut is held in place with a lock washer (big ring with holes in it) and this is fitted onto 2 keyways and then screws to the wheel bearing locknut with 2 x small (m5 I think?) slot headed bolts...............shows it in the front axle section of the workshop manual but instead of the autohub it is a big fixed flange which is held onto the driveshaft by a C clip? I guess if the thread is gone with luck it will 'only' be the locknut that holds the bearing in.... if not it may be the thread on the stub axle (pic FA-13 in section FA..call it a knuckle?) and that will be expensive!

hope that helps?:nenau

 

[lacroupade]

The only bit I can think of which is threaded is the actual wheel bearing locknut? As stated above the only difference is the 'fixed' hub just fits onto the splined driveshaft and bolts to the wheel hub - hence the permenant drive..... the locknut is held in place with a lock washer (big ring with holes in it) and this is fitted onto 2 keyways and then screws to the wheel bearing locknut with 2 x small (m5 I think?) slot headed bolts...............shows it in the front axle section of the workshop manual but instead of the autohub it is a big fixed flange which is held onto the driveshaft by a C clip? I guess if the thread is gone with luck it will 'only' be the locknut that holds the bearing in.... if not it may be the thread on the stub axle (pic FA-13 in section FA..call it a knuckle?) and that will be expensive!

hope that helps?:nenau

exactly what I was worried about - he said both threads were bolloxed.....so does that mean I could get away with a stub axle assembly from a MkII?

 

[mowerman]

I suspect the stub axles are all the same across the range.... my 'fixed' hub mk4 looks exactly the same as the manual except no free wheel hub assembly, just the big old fixed flange bit... I cannot believe the parts are different across the different marks...so I would say all major bits are interchangeable... I have read on here somewhere that you can 'retro' fit the fixed hub part to earlier models so would support the theory

 

[lacroupade]

I suspect the stub axles are all the same across the range.... my 'fixed' hub mk4 looks exactly the same as the manual except no free wheel hub assembly, just the big old fixed flange bit... I cannot believe the parts are different across the different marks...so I would say all major bits are interchangeable... I have read on here somewhere that you can 'retro' fit the fixed hub part to earlier models so would support the theory

I'd agree with that supposition!

So, any breakers got a recent drivers side stub axle they can ship me PDQ at a fair price? I need the bit that secures the wheel bearing to the shaft as well with both threads in good condition......

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

I suspect the stub axles are all the same across the range.... my 'fixed' hub mk4 looks exactly the same as the manual except no free wheel hub assembly, just the big old fixed flange bit... I cannot believe the parts are different across the different marks...so I would say all major bits are interchangeable... I have read on here somewhere that you can 'retro' fit the fixed hub part to earlier models so would support the theory

so do you think a fixed hub can be replaced with an auto or manual hub?

 

[lacroupade]

so do you think a fixed hub can be replaced with an auto or manual hub?

Not sure I can see that personally.....I thought that with auto hubs the shafts are permanently turning and drive is selected at the hub, whereas its selected in the gearbox with fixed hubs? So if you fitted fixed hubs to a MkII, you'd effectively be in permanent 4WD surely?

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

err thought selecting 4wd got prop spinning in turn kicks in auto hubs.

mind i'd go full manuals as cheaper, guess need to look at those wheel
centres. once manuals locked would be like fixed hubs.

suppose is lot to spend on something that aint broken, and put up with
noise and lose some convenience, well have to get out n lock hubs before
hitting the dirt, less mrs friendly! have seen some manuals that not seized
but stiff to turn.

yep talking self out of it, just shame that front prop n shafts spinning for
nothing 99.9% of time.

 

[lacroupade]

err thought selecting 4wd got prop spinning in turn kicks in auto hubs.

mind i'd go full manuals as cheaper, guess need to look at those wheel
centres. once manuals locked would be like fixed hubs.

suppose is lot to spend on something that aint broken, and put up with
noise and lose some convenience, well have to get out n lock hubs before
hitting the dirt, less mrs friendly! have seen some manuals that not seized
but stiff to turn.

yep talking self out of it, just shame that front prop n shafts spinning for
nothing 99.9% of time.

ah right I'm with you, so in either case selection is actually at the gearbox not the hub per se. Can't pretend I've ever fully got my head around whats actually pretty simple but then I'm a bloke! LOL

 

[spudd]

my hubs were removed couple of weeks back.its only a circlip that holds the drive shaft in you can remove driveshaft with bearing in place.my bearings were removed to drill out old abs sensors. bearings are a taper bearing so no special tool to undo though it says its needed on workshop cd.i think a mk11 hub will need the the circlip groove opening up as mine did for the circlip that was missing to make it fit, ie mines a mk 11

 

[lacroupade]

my hubs were removed couple of weeks back.its only a circlip that holds the drive shaft in you can remove driveshaft with bearing in place.my bearings were removed to drill out old abs sensors. bearings are a taper bearing so no special tool to undo though it says its needed on workshop cd.i think a mk11 hub will need the the circlip groove opening up as mine did for the circlip that was missing to make it fit, ie mines a mk 11

Just realised the ABS issue on the other thread so I'm having to try and track down a stub axle that takes ABS.