metal brake / fuel pipes corrosion

[perelaar]

I've noticed corrosion on the metal brake and fuel pipes under the car, especially on the last part, where the brake lines meet the load balancing valve.

I (lightly) cleaned around with a steel brush and I'll be applying anticorrosion and underseal, but in the end they have to be fixed.

Is there a way to do that without having to take the entire brake line from under the car? My local motor factors can make me metal brake lines, have done so before, but those where the parts between the splitter and the rear brake cilinders. So easy to undo, and take along to get correct length...

 

[Banshee]

With brake pipes, I just remove the knackered section, take it to my local motor factors and they bend me a new one to exactly the same shape and flare it for me :thumb2

 

[perelaar]

That is what I did with the sections running along the rear axle, but now I'm talking about the pipes that run from the master cylinder to the load sensing valve. Bit difficult walking in with a 4m section of pipe, not even sure I can get it out properly

 

[Banshee]

That is what I did with the sections running along the rear axle, but now I'm talking about the pipes that run from the master cylinder to the load sensing valve. Bit difficult walking in with a 4m section of pipe, not even sure I can get it out properly

:lol :lol

That would look a bit odd!!! Can't help you then mate as I've never had that problem........... yet

Will be watching to see how you resolve this :thumb2

 

[panelbeater]

without seeing its very unlikely that the whole length needs changing.it will probably have sections that join together so change the rotton to mate up with good pipe.pipe unions and fixings readily available as a small flaring tool to go under truck not expensive.

 

[johnb5177]

The chap who does my stuff, uses diesel proof `rubber/nitrile/whatever` for fuel lines, and makes up brake lines on the spot. It seems most decent places have on a reel........:nenau

 

[emjaybee]

I recently did my fuel lines, feed and return, in an afternoon in rubber (the fuel lines, not me!). Got all my stuff from http://www.beal.org.uk/ cost me less than £40 to do all the fuel lines.

They also do all the stuff for brake parts, including flaring tools. They are a garage supplies company, worth looking at, they may be able to post to Europe.

http://www.beal.org.uk/

Hope this helps.

 

[jims-terrano]

I have seen joints made with unions in brake pipes however as said will the cut end of original pipe need flaring because the tool will probably cost a lot.

 

[panelbeater]

full kit about £20,i paid a lot more than that in the 80s and still got it.once got and a bit of practices on pipe it will save a lot.

 

[rustic]

... Bit difficult walking in with a 4m section of pipe, not even sure I can get it out properly

One option, not tried it though...:nenau
Measure the length, then buy a length to suit, in a coil, with the ends correctly flared. Then when at home, bend it to match the original, provided there are no tight bends, it should bend by hand, but if you kink it... it's scrap.:augie

 

[johnb5177]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZD3CH...de=df0&creative=22218&creativeASIN=B00ZD3CHXW

 

[nemofish2000]

Even better less chance of the pipe slipping with these.

Ebay no 400891784693

 

[Terrano Steve]

I have done this a few times & the easiest way is to buy a coil of brake pipe a flaring tool and some ends (prob 10mm male for terrano).

This way you can be certain to make the pipe the correct length as you can fit it in to place before cutting and flaring ends on as flaring tool can be used under the truck.
Every thing you need can be bought from local motor factors, e.bay etc relatively cheap & would be useful again for sure.

 

[perelaar]

OK, I'll have a look at the local motor factors, and check for the tool. Would be ideal if I can joint the good part of the existing pipes (most of it, until about 2nd crossmember) to a new part, and so on to the load balancing valve.

 

[makeitfit]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZD3CH...de=df0&creative=22218&creativeASIN=B00ZD3CHXW

Nasty one.
Get this type it works first time every time and virtually fool proof .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151035636166?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The brake pipe from front splitter near O/S/F wheel to the load sensor is one piece.

 

[perelaar]

My T2 has failed me this morning, as I predicted above. Pinhole in the the brake line a bit before the load sensing valve.

That'll be eBay and the local motor factors then .

 

[Mav96]

Knew I had to do mine & I'm not looking forward to it one bit, I think something is gonna go wrong.

Any tips part from soak soak & soak in penetrating oil :nenau

 

[makeitfit]

Knew I had to do mine & I'm not looking forward to it one bit, I think something is gonna go wrong.

Any tips part from soak soak & soak in penetrating oil :nenau

Yeah, bin it and start from new. Just buy a splitter block and new fittings. Much quicker and safer and betterer

 

[Mav96]

Yeah, bin it and start from new. Just buy a splitter block and new fittings. Much quicker and safer and betterer

Is that all it is a junction box nothing fancy inside ?

 

[Banshee]

I can hear that fizzing!!!! Get that Waxoyled boyo!!!!