metal brake / fuel pipes corrosion

[Mav96]

I can hear that fizzing!!!! Get that Waxoyled boyo!!!!

Too late for that Banshee, like the man said best to source a replacement of sorts. :doh

 

[makeitfit]

Is that all it is a junction box nothing fancy inside ?

Well if it's actually working it's the load bias valve, but I doubt that's worked since it sank :lol

 

[Banshee]

Too late for that Banshee, like the man said best to source a replacement of sorts. :doh

I mean the rest of the car before you have to get the welder out

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

I thought the pipes on the T2 were steel, do the cheap flaring tools work OK on steel pipe?

 

[rustic]

Is that all it is a junction box nothing fancy inside ?

The working load sensing valve has a piston inside, that varies and controls the amount of fluid and pressure that's fed to the rear cylinders.
The more the rear is loaded, the more fluid goes to the back wheels, as there is less chance of the wheels skidding with the extra weight.
The adjustment is controlled by the spring pulling tension on the valve as the body drops in relationship to the rear axle.

:thumb2

 

[Blocky10]

The working load sensing valve has a piston inside, that varies and controls the amount of fluid and pressure that's fed to the rear cylinders.
The more the rear is loaded, the more fluid goes to the back wheels, as there is less chance of the wheels skidding with the extra weight.
The adjustment is controlled by the spring pulling tension on the valve as the body drops in relationship to the rear axle.

:thumb2

Another quality post. :thumb2
Did you eat Rick for breakfast?

 

[Mav96]

The working load sensing valve has a piston inside, that varies and controls the amount of fluid and pressure that's fed to the rear cylinders.
The more the rear is loaded, the more fluid goes to the back wheels, as there is less chance of the wheels skidding with the extra weight.
The adjustment is controlled by the spring pulling tension on the valve as the body drops in relationship to the rear axle.

:thumb2

And if its not present at next months Mot, will it fail ?

 

[Banshee]

And if its not present at next months Mot, will it fail ?

I asked the MOT man that when my Maverick had one and he said testers discretion

 

[Mav96]

I thought the pipes on the T2 were steel, do the cheap flaring tools work OK on steel pipe?

They are steel, but thats a good question I need answering as I plan to cut the pipes as near to the front as possible & use 2 connectors to join my new copper pipe to the old.

 

[Mav96]

I asked the MOT man that when my Maverick had one and he said testers discretion

Hmmmn thanks I think :augie

 

[makeitfit]

And if its not present at next months Mot, will it fail ?

He'll need a bloody good data base to check which T2 did and didn't have a bias valve. Nissan can't work it out lol
If it's not there and the replacment plumbing is good then no fail.
As for joining the pipe, I say don't. Just go to the front splitter on o/s front chassis leg. No point putting more work into joins onto old pipe.
The flare tool I linked to is brilliant by the way

 

[Mav96]

He'll need a bloody good data base to check which T2 did and didn't have a bias valve. Nissan can't work it out lol
If it's not there and the replacment plumbing is good then no fail.
As for joining the pipe, I say don't. Just go to the front splitter on o/s front chassis leg. No point putting more work into joins onto old pipe.
The flare tool I linked to is brilliant by the way

So if I remove all associated parts and fit something like this:
http://goo.gl/A5EAup

I should be ok.
As for flaring tool you are probably right. :thumbs

 

[makeitfit]

So if I remove all associated parts and fit something like this:
http://goo.gl/A5EAup

I should be ok.
As for flaring tool you are probably right. :thumbs

Something like that yes, but I can't remember what size fittings were on the T2
Motor factors should have all you need though :thumbs

 

[perelaar]

If I remember correctly there are 2 brake lines running from the front to the load balancer in the back. Whereas the 3-way connector only has room for one? Or am I overlooking something?

 

[solarman216]

If I remember correctly there are 2 brake lines running from the front to the load balancer in the back. Whereas the 3-way connector only has room for one? Or am I overlooking something?

depends on the year and if it has ABS early ABS still only had one rear pipe even though there was a sensor on both rear wheels, my Mrs car is like this, Rick

 

[Mav96]

If I remember correctly there are 2 brake lines running from the front to the load balancer in the back. Whereas the 3-way connector only has room for one? Or am I overlooking something?

2 pipes from front to load senso, from load sensor 1 short length to splitter then to each rear brake. I take it you have not got around to yours yet ?

 

[perelaar]

I'm planning to replace the 2 front to back pipes very soon, have to finish some work on the garage itself first. But indeed, this is the setup I have on my T2, hence the question

 

[Mav96]

I'm planning to replace the 2 front to back pipes very soon, have to finish some work on the garage itself first. But indeed, this is the setup I have on my T2, hence the question

hope to start mine next week, weather permitting :thumb2

 

[solarman216]

I have I must admit never even looked at the rear compensation valve, but having seen the diagram can only assume the valve works not only by the ride height of the rear body but also the pressure from the front brakes, if you want to do away with it then the front brake pipe needs blanking and the rear just needs a tee piece, I will try and remove one from a scrapper and strip it to see what gives as I am intrigued now, Rick

 

[Mav96]

I have I must admit never even looked at the rear compensation valve, but having seen the diagram can only assume the valve works not only by the ride height of the rear body but also the pressure from the front brakes, if you want to do away with it then the front brake pipe needs blanking and the rear just needs a tee piece, I will try and remove one from a scrapper and strip it to see what gives as I am intrigued now, Rick

I am going to try salvaging mine first, the bolts securing it to the chassis don't look to bad, so I will cut the pipes, then try & remove the valve before attempting to undo the pipe nuts. waiting to see what you find :thumbs