merry xmas and help needed on clutch

[dave123]

hI all and first thing to say is merry Christmas and a happy new year. the second thing is I took the wife to work yesterday and it was a single lane road I had to pull over to let a van threw and when I went to pull away the clutch took about 5 second to engage and when it did I shot forward . the revs went up but the car wasn't moving to match the revs . before this there was no problem never slipped once . but now it feels like the clutch isn't engaging properly .. I have done the test of build the revs up to 3ooo in fifth and the take my foot off the clutch and it stalls . but it just doesn't seem to be pulling right . it feels like it taking about 5 seconds for the clutch to release . what could this be ? . I'm think master or slave cylinder . but I don't know much about this ? . I just need abit of help . every time I sort one thing out the next week something else goes wrong :nenau

 

[solarman216]

first thing I would go for is the hose, they collapse inside causing a restriction, Rick

 

[dave123]

first thing I would go for is the hose, they collapse inside causing a restriction, Rick

I had a look this morning . I found the master cylinder and the metal pipe from that . but I can't get under it at the moment (too wet) to see where that goes . but where is that hose you are on about ? another thing what colour should the fluid be . mine is a murky green/grey . I found this write up this morning that's sound the same as mine http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19812&highlight=clutch+slipping

 

[rustic]

I had a look this morning . I found the master cylinder and the metal pipe from that . but I can't get under it at the moment (too wet) to see where that goes . but where is that hose you are on about ? another thing what colour should the fluid be . mine is a murky green/grey . I found this write up this morning that's sound the same as mine http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19812&highlight=clutch+slipping

The flexi hose goes to the clutch slave cylinder, on the off side of the gear box bell housing.

The clutch fluid should be the same colour as brake fluid, because that's what it is, so straw coloured.
But it does darken with age, and is often neglected, good practice would be to change it at the same time as the brake fluid... since you have the equipment handy, but it rarely gets done.:doh:doh

 

[elty001]

what sort of state is the clutch pedal in.the unit can snap and the bushes wear out so the pedal can stick.

 

[dave123]

what sort of state is the clutch pedal in.the unit can snap and the bushes wear out so the pedal can stick.

the pedal is fine . I have just ordered the flexi hose and fluid £33 I think I will change it and see. hopefully that will sort it

 

[dave123]

how do you bleed it . I thought it was break open the bleed nipple then push foot down on clutch and hold down then do up bleed nipple and release pedal . but my father in law says that's wrong . he told me it's push pedal down first then break open bleed nipple then do the nipple back up and release pedal .? I have never heard of that way . and which bleed nipple do you start with . the one on the dampener or what. I got one mate that costs me more money when he helps as he always breaks something else and a father in law that just makes it hard to do and say don't worry about it slipping or things breaking just drive it till it goes

 

[rustic]

This is the text book way of bleeding it.

http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/cl.pdf

Rustic

 

[solarman216]

because the T2 has a bleed at the master cylinder you do not need to grovel under, just stick a short bit of tube about 4 inches long onto the bleed and go and have a coffee, it will bleed itself, Rick

 

[dave123]

here is a update . I drove the car to get the hose and I was going long the road not using the clutch for about 10-15 minutes and the clutch felt fine for the first 3 presses of the pedal then the clutch started to slip again the biting point moved right up and the more I used it the worse it got . but then coming back same thing happened drove for same road so not using the clutch for 10-15 min and it comes back but every time I use it the worse it gets ? .? I suppose I could drive using no clutch :lol . so I was thinking of while im doing the flexi pipe is it worth while changing the master and slave cylinders just to be on the safe side ?. if so what are the ones on milners like as they cost £18 and £12 and the others I can find cost £55 and £45

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Personally, when I got my truck, and the flexy pipe had gone, I also thought the Slave was gone as well, so changed both... total waste of time and money, as when I took the old slave apart, it was perfect....

I would just get under the truck, and make sure you can open and close the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, just in case it is seized, and if it is OK, just do the relativity easy pipe, then make sure you run plenty of clean clutch fluid through to flush all the old junk out.

The only other thing you will need to double check, is is you are keeping the damper pipe, you can also open and close the bleed nipple on that, which is just above the rear axle, drivers side.

If once you have done that, and it is still playing up, then attack the slave and/or master cylinders, but to be honest in my experience, they tend to be pretty obvious when they have gone, as they usually leak fluid....

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

I had very similar issues with my last one, and checked everything, the revs test said it was fine. In the end we stripped the clutch out and it was worn down to the rivets, simple as that :thumb2

 

[dave123]

I had very similar issues with my last one, and checked everything, the revs test said it was fine. In the end we stripped the clutch out and it was worn down to the rivets, simple as that :thumb2

how much would a garage roughly charge for a clutch change . as on my old Vectra my garage charged me £360 just in labour . I have found clutches for the t2 for £150-£170 . the father in law said he paid nearly £900 for kit and labour and that's at the garage he drives for as a recovery driver for . surely not that dear

 

[dave123]

can some one tell me if the flywheel is a solid flywheel or dual mass flywheel ? the garage can't give me a price till he finds that out ?

 

[trophymick]

Solid, that should make you feel a bit better.:augie

 

[davenclaire]

can some one tell me if the flywheel is a solid flywheel or dual mass flywheel ? the garage can't give me a price till he finds that out ?

if a garage doesnt know when you ask them dont use them, simples they have never done one of those cars before so dont let them have there first go on yours.

as said try bleeding the clutch get the fluid changed out check the rear damper pipe isnt leaking it only takes apin hole to play havoc, you can blank it off simple enough but iv just replaced and reconnected mine after 2 years and the clutch is soooooooooooo much better for it, rick replaced my heavy clutch 2 years ago.

before that i changed the master and slave different symptoms to you milners stuff is top notch if in doubt change them its simple to do cheap and could save you a lot of money by letting a garage change the clutch.

if all else fails to cure it then find a decent garage about 150 to 200 in labour is all you should pay i to had silly quotes they obviously dont want the work or just want to rip you off.

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

As far as I know they are all solid flywheels, Milner off road has lists of parts for T2s that should tell you all you need to know

http://www.milneroffroad.com/nissan

 

[dave123]

thanks to everyone for all the advice as soon as its dry enough I will get under and change the bits and check for leaks . once again thanks and merry xmas from me david and my family

 

[dave123]

my local garage just phoned me back on a price and they have looked it up on auto data and they said it takes 7.5 hours to do. does this sound right ? and they said £35 plus vat an hour

 

[firebobby]

When I had the clutch done on my old 2.7, the guy found the bell housing had loads of oil in it, the front seal had gone and it had leaked. I think I was charged around £500 all in and he had it a couple of days in the end because of getting the front oil seal