manual hubs what happens to the 4wd gear changer

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niks_terrano ii

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
392
Hi guys what happens to the 4wd gear selector if I change the free wheeling hubs to manual hubs?

Also what happens to 4wd high and 4wd low ?

Do u still have to put the selector into 4wd high when you lock the hubs manually ?

Sorry for the silly questiions but I don't want to caught out without 4wd as the weather is so bad at the mo

The hubs are ok at the moment but when you engage 4wd I get a clunk frm the offside doesn't always do it but it doesn't sound good so I'm hoping to catch them before the give up.

But any explanation would be great about how they function I know there is plenty of info a out them but I need to understand. By asking my own questions
Thanks guys

Paul
 
At what speed might you be getting this klunk when shifting to 4wd High I hope?:nenau
 
Hi guys what happens to the 4wd gear selector if I change the free wheeling hubs to manual hubs?

Also what happens to 4wd high and 4wd low ?

Do u still have to put the selector into 4wd high when you lock the hubs manually ?

Sorry for the silly questiions but I don't want to caught out without 4wd as the weather is so bad at the mo

The hubs are ok at the moment but when you engage 4wd I get a clunk frm the offside doesn't always do it but it doesn't sound good so I'm hoping to catch them before the give up.

But any explanation would be great about how they function I know there is plenty of info a out them but I need to understand. By asking my own questions
Thanks guys

Paul

Hi,

Nothing changes, ideally you lock hubs well in advance of needing 'em so dont get mucky
shows when needed.

could even leave them locked for the winter, for piece of mind.

then use 2hi to 4hi to 4 lo as required, and back to 2hi when back on dry non slippy
surfaces.
 
.

The clunk only happens sometimes and it only clunks once in 4wd from statioinary the very moment I put it in and attempt to pull away it clunks like something is holding the off side back. Sorry about the poor description.
Forgot to mention after it makes the clunk noise it doent continue to clunk its just when engaging 4wd frm 2wd.
 
try reversing, engage 4wd and reverse as if had to get out of an unexpected problem
then go forwards, long shot might help.

mine did something weird last night. got to work and reversed into snowy parking space,
slipped to halt so used rear axle lock, no better slipped into 4wd and reversed perfectly.
switched off, knocked back into 2wd. later left work got strange vibration, best decribe
like going over those speed calming strips near junctions. drove round car park and it
did it again, about hundred yards later. was'nt ice on carpark. can only think that one
hub hadnt engaged properly, but wasnt clicking commonly described when hubs dont
lock cleanly.

decided to reverse up, what ever was cleared, thinking was a hub. hard to define
these things sometimes just best to experiment
 
.

I think the best way of describing my prob after thinking about its like the off side front wheel feels locked solid momenterally until it give it a bit of welly and it clunks and overcomes the locked feeling
I wonder if the hub is engaging properly I'll try reversing the nxt time I put it in 4wd.
 
Are you doing this on tarmac? Sounds a bit like "wind up"
If you're changing to 4wd from stationary pull away slowly and dont give it beans or you snap the rings:thumbs
 
could be a sticking auto hub or a jamming one on a bad grove ?
 
I've run on manuals for 5 years now and here's what I find.

When locked you are turning the front drive shafts and diff. When I unlock them the car feels a lot livelier so I'm sure will use a bit more fuel but haven't noticed.
I lock them in advance of possibly needing 4WD but don't leave em locked long term as it's bound to cause wear somewhere on the front transmission and I also keep speed to a maximum of 60 though that's just me being cautious. Remember the later models have fixed hubs and they travel at speed and don't have problems.
Once the hubs are locked I flick between 2H and 4H as needed without having to reverse afterwards. still need to stop before going into and out of 4L.
Remember even with the hubs locked the front wheels are not being driven until you select 4wd.

Big down side I think about is that if I get windup the auto hubs with their brake rings were the weak link so would brake before any further damage. Mine aint got the weak link so I am aware of windup.

Hope this answers your question.

Jim
 
My Maverick had a sticky drivers side auto hub, made a klunk when it engaged...

What I have found:
One of the hubs will always engage first, the one that slides easiest, now when the second hub engages, the splines may not line up, but when they do..... Klunk.
If you are turning at the time, then the shaft and hub will be going at different speeds, the more speed, the more torque, the more off a straight line..... the bigger the Klunk. :doh
The book says you can engage the hubs at up to 20mph.......:nenau
I do it at 4mph, but never at 20mph :eek:

It is metal to metal after all.
There will be some backlash (play) in the transmission so this can be taken up as well.
So best to engage the hubs when stationary and on a slippy surface in a straight line, and take up the speed slowly, and you shouldn't hear a Klunk at all.
15+ years and still on the same components, cleaned and greased once in that time, BUT only less than 90k miles from new helps though.
However I do use it more in the winter, as in the better weather we use the Wife's Picasso with 50+ mpg.. at 70 mph :thumb2
 
Are you doing this on tarmac? Sounds a bit like "wind up"
If you're changing to 4wd from stationary pull away slowly and dont give it beans or you snap the rings:thumbs

He's got a point; does it still do it when you engage 4WD in the 'straight ahead' steering position on a really slippery surface? :confused: The worst condition for windup is when turning on a relatively dry (or even wet) surface, forwards or backwards.

If it IS a busted snap ring just replace them, its not expensive and despite some of the b/s you hear on here, they are NOT part of the drive chain and are ONLY under any strain when engaging or disengaging 4WD - once that steps complete they do nothing, but hence Petes warning not to welly it until you are certain the hubs are engaged.
 
What I have found:
One of the hubs will always engage first, the one that slides easiest, now when the second hub engages, the splines may not line up, but when they do..... Klunk.
If you are turning at the time, then the shaft and hub will be going at different speeds, the more speed, the more torque, the more off a straight line..... the bigger the Klunk. :doh
The book says you can engage the hubs at up to 20mph.......:nenau
I do it at 4mph, but never at 20mph :eek:

It is metal to metal after all.
There will be some backlash (play) in the transmission so this can be taken up as well.
So best to engage the hubs when stationary and on a slippy surface in a straight line, and take up the speed slowly, and you shouldn't hear a Klunk at all.
15+ years and still on the same components, cleaned and greased once in that time, BUT only less than 90k miles from new helps though.
However I do use it more in the winter, as in the better weather we use the Wife's Picasso with 50+ mpg.. at 70 mph :thumb2

I never engage 4x4 on the fly, cant help but think sudden strain breaks weak or worn parts. Also I am a believer you should be fully engaged and in 4x4 well before the need for it...

I do agree, you should not hear any klunks... thats why I knew my second set of auto hubs were on their way out... serviced, pumped with grease and sealed back on yet I still had the klunk :rolleyes:
 
Hi guys,

this has been a really helpfull thread.Last week I put my T2 into 4wd for the first time since I had it and was feeling really smug driving around with loads of grip in the bad conditions.

However on the 2nd day when the conditions where not as bad and I was turning into a tarmac carpark my offside front wheel felt like it was being retarded and the vehicle began lurching down on that side.At first I thought I had a puncture but the type of noise it made at the same time, it didnt add up.(and wheel not flat obs)

I did the reversing back and forward selecting procedure and it seemed to dis/enage fine but as I was away from home I decided to go with 2wd so as not to have a break down.

So the symptoms sound similar to those already mentioned here.I may remove the hubs,lubricate and replace the snap rings as first port of call.

My main concern is not to damage any running gear components in the short term and in the new year prehaps replace with manual hubs when the finances might be in better shape,Because I want that smug feeling again:D
 

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