Lucinda

[bbbmmm55]

Passenger side

 

[bbbmmm55]

Thankful that I was not involved in any accident with passengers in the back.
Looks like ill be putting my welding skills:lol to the test alot soon than i planned.

 

[jims-terrano]

Yep that’s one of the reasons my project truck took so long getting back on the road. Take your time cut back to good metal and don’t plate over any crap. Once done waxoyl the undersides and it’ll last for years.

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Mmmmm tasty, like Jim said cut plenty back :thumb2

 

[bbbmmm55]

Going to strip the rear out this weekend to get a proper look at see how far the rust has got.

When you replace the metal in the arch does the oval need to go back in as i think thats had it too. Although it seemed stronger then the surrounding bits.

The truck will have to stay in use while I make repairs. After cutting the bad bits out how can I protect the clean metal until jobs finished and waxed? Any recommendations or while a primer keep it good for a while? Chucked some foil/gaffa tape on the hole atm any ideas on what i could cover the big opening with while i attempt repair?

Lastly does anybody know what kind of thickness i should put back in place. Got a collection of white good panels stashed away. Hoping i can stick them to the truck.

 

[jims-terrano]

I cleaned the oval up as best I could and then welded around it on to the new metal.
Most of my repairs are 1.5mm thick steel but I had some 2mm for the seatbelt mounting area so I used that but I’m sure 1.5 should be fine.
It’ll be difficult repairing a section and then using the teuck before doing a bit more. I just sprayed primer on mine but mine wasn’t on the road. I suppose gaffer tape over new metal and to cover holes will work.
Once you start cleaning it all up it will surprise you how far back it goes. Also check the body mounting area which is sort of between that stepped section seat hinges bolt to and leading edge of the wheel arch. You’ll see a hard plastic grommet which covers main body mount bolts. Don’t be afraid to have to drill the spot welds and cut away the boot floor above body mounting. Good thing is we are rapidly approaching warmer weather so you won’t be as likely to be working in near frost conditions which we were. Protect interior from sparks from the grinder too, the sparks are capable of melting into glass. Keep fire protection close by too even if it’s just a hose pipe. I found a damp towel is good Protection if you’re welding near anything flammable.

 

[bbbmmm55]

Thanks jim for the heads up. Will get it all stripped out and cleaned up for a proper inspection. Plenty of pics to follow this weekend I think. Oh im sure there will be plenty of questions too.

 

[jims-terrano]

Thought about this earlier. You can buy weld through primer so I’m wondering if that may protect bare metal between repair sessions.
I think Rick uses stainless so that would only rust on your welding too.

 

[bbbmmm55]

I saw that you posted in your seatbelt bolt thread. Will have a look into the primer, screwfix sell galv spray for areas that cant be painted after welding. May use that after ive cut bits out then grind it off before I weld.

Saw that rick used stainless on his patrol repair. Also seen that mig brazing galvanised sheet into non prescribed area is a thing. Seems a good idea to use a material that will last. But gonna keep it simple as its my first welding repair on a car.

First step start pulling all the seats n carpets out so I can check over the whole floor. Had to leave the carpets as the only way those bolts are coming out now is with those ovals attached to them and no time this eve to make a basic bodge on the extra tyre inspection holes i will be left with.

 

[solarman216]

Yep only stainless for me, as Jim says only need to worry about the weld line, point to watch though is S/S is not as strong as mild steel so go a bit thicker especially for bits like seat belt mounts, cheap stainless is readily available from your local scrappie just take a magnet and home in on commercial freezers, shelving etc if it is not showing signs of rust but is magnetic then you can get this for pennies cos as far as the scappie is concerned it is not S/S, steel £90 tonne,,,, S/S £650 tonne and the magnetic stuff is stronger as well, Rick

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Don't weld galvanised steel either, gives off some very nasty fumes!

 

[solarman216]

Be careful welding Galve OK with plenty of ventilation but very dodgy without, that is why I go stainless, Rick

 

[bbbmmm55]

Working outside was pretty much rained off but managed to make a start.

 

[bbbmmm55]

Both mounts out. Extra aerodynamics

 

[bbbmmm55]

Drivers side arch will need cutting out down towards the sill.

 

[bbbmmm55]

Passenger side will need more work on the arch itself.

 

[bbbmmm55]

This is inside the passenger rear quarter panel. Something to work on in the future.

 

[bbbmmm55]

Both rear body mounts are solid, couple of scabby bits on the floor. Next step I think is to get all the seam sealer and sound proofing off one arch. Get them done one at a time. Not had the front carpet out yet but need some work on the passenger footwell, either leaking heater or sun roof tubes I think. Must habe been eating away at the flor for along time. Temporary bodge to stop the rain getting in whilst im at work this week lol.

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Awkward places to weld aren't they mate!

 

[bbbmmm55]

Finally free time to start doing away with the rust. Digging out tge seam sealer and seeing whats left.