Internal Chassis Prep

[Banshee]

The 3 litre is days away from Waxoyl application (keep an eye for pics and a bit of an update tonight)

I want to clean the inside of the chassis out before I spray the Waxoyl inside, my first choice was going to be steam cleaner but I can't find anywhere that even owns one never mind let me use it/hire it :doh

The truck is now immobile with only engine, gearbox, diffs and rear axle still attached. So moving it is not an option. It looks like this truck may have been off roaded a little at some point as I have found dirt and sand trapped in all the usual crevices.

My idea is to high power flush it with the Karcher as it's the best option I have. How long would you guys recommend allowing the chassis to dry out before injecting waxoyl?

Thoughts and observations please guys? What have you guys that have Waxoyled before done before, I have to admit, I didn't do inside the chassis last time I did the 2.7 but will be this time.

 

[jims-terrano]

I reckon it'll take several days at least and if not being moved i suspect it'll take even longer.

 

[Banshee]

I reckon it'll take several days at least and if not being moved i suspect it'll take even longer.

This is what I feared :/

I like the idea of filling the chassis with oil and slamming it in first then reverse to slosh it all about lol!!! Wasn't that Fez's trick?

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Do you have a compressor?

 

[perelaar]

Don't fill it with oil, you'll just spread oil all over the area. Plus oil washes off, so no long term solution.

Spray it out with high-pressure washer, and then use a compressor. For a long long time...
Tilting the chassis might encourage faster drying, since you'll have almost no standing water anymore inside.

 

[Bigbunny2007]

I'd just wax oil it as you will struggle to wash the muck out anyway!

 

[Fez_uk]

This is what I feared :/

I like the idea of filling the chassis with oil and slamming it in first then reverse to slosh it all about lol!!! Wasn't that Fez's trick?

That's what my dad used to do back in the day with his landrovers.

Personally I would just whack the stuff you plan to use straight in, Not sure why you are doing so much on this motor (for possible re-sale?) but that's up to you I guess. :lol

 

[panelbeater]

to get the london taxis plated ie up to londons taxi licence standard every year they had to be ramped,hot preasure washed clean and then blow dried and then a really gooee mix,never found out what it was,sprayed on the underside and creveses to look good and preserve the bottoms from rust.it worked well did not drip on roads and was waterproof but not hot pressure wash proof as next year all done again.
we used to just spray old axel oil all over under to protect the rot boxes from japan lol.
was blow and wax would be my opinion.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

I am sure on the Hammerite Waxoil tin, it says that it displaces water, so I would not worry too much about a bit staying in there.

Then again, I am not sure how you plan on jet washing the sills out, as there are not really any holes big enough to get a jet wash in... well unless it was one of my cars, pre MOT

On Jiggly, I drilled a couple of 20mm holes under the plastic scuff plates in each door, and used the long spray pipe on the Sealey Waxoil spray gun to get right in there. The pipe is about 500mm long, so with a hole under both the front and back scuff plates, you can do the whole sill. You then put the scuff plate back on, and there is no visible hole. I used 2x1litre cans in each sill. Make sure you put a tarp on the ground under the sills though, as it does drip out of the drain holes all over the drive for the next couple of days.

If you haven't got a compressor, I would say do the rest of the car, then once you have it back on it's wheels, and drivable, take it to someone who will let you use theirs, it make life so easy and you get a much better cover... Not only that, but at my local motor factors, the 400ml spray can is about £5, but for £7.20, you can get a full litre. The spray gun pays for it's self after 4 or 5 spray cans!, and the 1litre tins just screw straight on. You just use white spirit to clean it up when you finish. The last time I ran out of Waxoil the motor factors were shut, so I got 5l from Halfrauds for £30, and just re-filled the 1litre cans. I must check and see how much the motor factor do the 5litre cans for, and I can just keep refilling the 1litre ones from that.

I would say you are better just getting on with it, while the weather is still nice and warm, so it has time to travel, creep and seep into all the places.

Don't forget to stand the Waxoil cans in a bucket of hot water before you use them, and if you get really stuck, you can always pop down to Kent, and you can use my compressor and gun.

 

[panelbeater]

i will ask,what about welding once its been sealed,fire risk etc.
i was welding a cortina 3 sill and it cought fire but i put it out,had newspaper and filler in it lol.

 

[Banshee]

i will ask,what about welding once its been sealed,fire risk etc.
i was welding a cortina 3 sill and it cought fire but i put it out,had newspaper and filler in it lol.

No newspaper or filler on this one :lol

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

i will ask,what about welding once its been sealed,fire risk etc.
i was welding a cortina 3 sill and it cought fire but i put it out,had newspaper and filler in it lol.

I think most Fords came from the factory like that...:lol

I think that once the waxoil has dried, it seems to smoulder, rather than burn. That is not the case when you have recently applied it, and then spot a bit of weld you need to fix, it burns really well then!!!:doh...

 

[macabethiel]

Rotting from within.

As we all know for steel to go rusty on the inside of a chassis rail you need.

1) Oxygen

2) Water

Other forms or corrosion are usually galvanic based due ti dis-similar metals being in contact.

If you have a lot of debris inside the chassis then a steam clean or pressure wash is a good idea but you need it to dry as you have said.

I would then inject your Waxoyl with the crevice tool as they spray it top, bottom and sides as you draw the device in /out. Its just a small bore pipe with a funny thing in the end.
Might be worth taping up the drain holes as you do this to get good bottom cover. Leave overnight then remove the tape so it dries out.

The very early Minis (ADO 15) had a sort of sponge / foam in the sills. Unfortunately this held water and led to early sill failure and was discontinued quite early in production.

I have often wondered if injecting building foam would be a good idea as it would reduce condensation as the volume of air would be very substantially reduced. Others here might have more experience of using such foam.

At the rear of my Garage Office Annex that is built from Breeze Blocks on the sides and rear with only brickwork to the front I screwed some opaque glass fibre roof panels to the outside rear wall using roofing battens to space it slightly off the walls ( I was given a load of Off Cuts by a mate who was building a factory extension).

I injected roofing foam into each "End" to effectively seal the glass fibre ends so there was an air cavity acting as insulation. As this is at the back of the Garage and a couple of feet from my bottom boundary wall no one can see it so appearance was not a consideration. It has been in place since 1990 and the Building Foam has not fell off though it has gone a very dark yellowish brown.

 

[Banshee]

As we all know for steel to go rusty on the inside of a chassis rail you need.

1) Oxygen

2) Water

Other forms or corrosion are usually galvanic based due ti dis-similar metals being in contact.

If you have a lot of debris inside the chassis then a steam clean or pressure wash is a good idea but you need it to dry as you have said.

I would then inject your Waxoyl with the crevice tool as they spray it top, bottom and sides as you draw the device in /out. Its just a small bore pipe with a funny thing in the end.
Might be worth taping up the drain holes as you do this to get good bottom cover. Leave overnight then remove the tape so it dries out.

The very early Minis (ADO 15) had a sort of sponge / foam in the sills. Unfortunately this held water and led to early sill failure and was discontinued quite early in production.

I have often wondered if injecting building foam would be a good idea as it would reduce condensation as the volume of air would be very substantially reduced. Others here might have more experience of using such foam.

At the rear of my Garage Office Annex that is built from Breeze Blocks on the sides and rear with only brickwork to the front I screwed some opaque glass fibre roof panels to the outside rear wall using roofing battens to space it slightly off the walls ( I was given a load of Off Cuts by a mate who was building a factory extension).

I injected roofing foam into each "End" to effectively seal the glass fibre ends so there was an air cavity acting as insulation. As this is at the back of the Garage and a couple of feet from my bottom boundary wall no one can see it so appearance was not a consideration. It has been in place since 1990 and the Building Foam has not fell off though it has gone a very dark yellowish brown.

Now that was the kinda thinking I was after, that is a very very interesting idea. Is the building foam not porous therefore will soak up the water and keep it in there longer than normal causing it to rot quicker?

As for the cleaning out of the chassis, I'm 100% going with the Karcher in the chassis, there are enough holes in the chassis all the way up and down on both sides to ensure a nice finish especially when you consider I'll be a few inches away from the surface I'm cleaning hitting it with 290 PSI :sly

I've toyed with the idea of drilling some drainage holes and plugging them up for such occasions :nenau

 

[elty001]

stay away from the building foam.
My old SJ had been filled with it in places and it was wet through and rotting from the inside out

 

[don simon]

stay away from the building foam.
My old SJ had been filled with it in places and it was wet through and rotting from the inside out

Surely it's not the foam that's the problem, it's the 'oles and their inability to dry out quickly.

 

[Banshee]

stay away from the building foam.
My old SJ had been filled with it in places and it was wet through and rotting from the inside out

As I thought :doh

This is why I ask

 

[macabethiel]

Different Foams for different applications ?

Again I have never tried them but some foams are for exterior use and described as an insulant against moisture ?

Moisture is what cures most foams it absorbs moisture from the air to set.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Expanding-Foam-Filler-750ml/p/109746

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GORILLA-FILLER-WEATHERPROOF-EXPANDING-FOAM/dp/B0015Q0UT4

http://www.timeattack.co.uk/chassis-stiffening-basics/#sthash.W61E9Y0X.dpbs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCDwDhdTd3c

Some are described as water proof and are a plastic based product. There is a lot on the net if you google foams for chassis. Looks as if someone markets a product to give added chassis rigidity - last U tube video shows it as a liquid you pour in.