Intercooler spray?

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Scott mate, don't get stressed.......this is a diesel.

When someone tells me premature fuel evaporation is a problem I'll be a worried man as the laws of physics will have changed.....

BTW, re your thread about 8 and 12 valve TDs, are you sure you aren't mixing in the 2.4 petrol by some chance?

I got a good idea Mate, why dont you read the link and look up the two codes and see what they say as they are in english and there for us all to read. Why would a 2.4 petrol have an engine code starting 2.7TD
 
I got a good idea Mate, why dont you read the link and look up the two codes and see what they say as they are in english and there for us all to read. Why would a 2.4 petrol have an engine code starting 2.7TD


Yes but they're not sourced direct from Nissan or anything - don't belive everything you read on the internet. Also that link is Terrano not Terrano II.
 
Sorry scott but you plainly don't know how either engine type truely works. I'm not some armchair mechanic, I spent years working in motorsport and now I prefer not to get my hands dirty but still deal in the motortrade (as you've seen - the van!!).

Technically its not evapouration its actually usually termed atomisation. Carburetors used to do it but now its done using fuel injection. The petrol is forced under really high pressure through a small hole it comes out as mist which instantly vapourizes.

If you don't beleive me we can meet up sometime and I;ll show you liquid petrol does not burn.You bring some, I'll drop a match into it, it will go out.[/QUOT

Bloody hell, The cars I have had have been injection with turbos worth having not carbs.

Yes I have seen 'The Van!!'. Full of brake cleaner and crimps!!!!!!!
 
I got a good idea Mate, why dont you read the link and look up the two codes and see what they say as they are in english and there for us all to read. Why would a 2.4 petrol have an engine code starting 2.7TD

Scott, would that be the link (from the Czech Republic) that shows the TD as being in production from 1996 to 2002 by any chance? Ummmm...

Put simply, if its a choice between that single (seriously dodgy) link and the official Nissan workshop manual, well excuse me while I have a little think about that one.....:doh
 
well ive been thinking about this problem and i recon a fan and use a heat sheild under the intercooler to stop heat rising off the engine
 
If you don't beleive me we can meet up sometime and I;ll show you liquid petrol does not burn.You bring some, I'll drop a match into it, it will go out.

:lol:lol:lol

now drop a match in diesel and yes it will go out! but petrol :lol:lol:lol

if you do take some over scott, stand well back while he lights the match and take an eye brow pencil to draw his eye brows back on whe he is finished :lol:lol:lol:lol

:jesterbg


like they say on Blue Peter, dont try this at home!

The idea of petrol vaporisong in before buroing in an engine is true, liquid petrol being safe enough to drop a match into is not, so dont do it, and dont, try puring it into a fire either as the flames track back up the stream and ignite the container, the flamability of petrol should not be underestimated!

in short, petrol higly dangerous and very flamable!

petrol vapour (from eveporation or atomisation) explosive and potentily even more dangerous!

last point as petrol so easily evaporates it is not possible to seperate the liquid from the vapour as where there is petrol there will be vapour!
 
sorry the 'fire proof petrol' thing made me laugh so much i forgot what i came on here to say:

I have a mate who is big time into tuning MR2's and works from time to time for MR T's doing just this, he has gone on to better methods now but, used to use washer nozzels and pumps and bottles, to spray the intercooler with water, sometines contiuous and sometimes just a push and spray every now and again like when you wash your widows! might be worth experimenting with as it is a cheap and quick method!

I have never tried it so dont shout at me if it doesn't work!
 
i did read somewhere, that the liquid for of petrol will put a match out. basically it smothers the match and extinguishes it as there is no oxygen to feed the match within the liquid.

however you cant get a lighted match near to petrol due to the vapors from the petrol that are highly flamable


having said that im not going to try it....

i have all the big burns i need thanks
 
If you don't beleive me we can meet up sometime and I;ll show you liquid petrol does not burn.You bring some, I'll drop a match into it, it will go out.

:lol:lol:lol

now drop a match in diesel and yes it will go out! but petrol :lol:lol:lol

if you do take some over scott, stand well back while he lights the match and take an eye brow pencil to draw his eye brows back on whe he is finished :lol:lol:lol:lol

:jesterbg


like they say on Blue Peter, dont try this at home!

The idea of petrol vaporisong in before buroing in an engine is true, liquid petrol being safe enough to drop a match into is not, so dont do it, and dont, try puring it into a fire either as the flames track back up the stream and ignite the container, the flamability of petrol should not be underestimated!

in short, petrol higly dangerous and very flamable!

petrol vapour (from eveporation or atomisation) explosive and potentily even more dangerous!

last point as petrol so easily evaporates it is not possible to seperate the liquid from the vapour as where there is petrol there will be vapour!


On a cool day in a shallow container so there is no airspace above the petrol for petrol vapour to collect it can be done - but I was making a point as I'm sure you realised.

Brake fluid is actually the most dangerous fluid in a car. If you pour petrol on a hot exhaust manifold it will just evapourate, brake fluid will self ignite due to its low flash point.
 
sorry the 'fire proof petrol' thing made me laugh so much i forgot what i came on here to say:

I have a mate who is big time into tuning MR2's and works from time to time for MR T's doing just this, he has gone on to better methods now but, used to use washer nozzels and pumps and bottles, to spray the intercooler with water, sometines contiuous and sometimes just a push and spray every now and again like when you wash your widows! might be worth experimenting with as it is a cheap and quick method!

I have never tried it so dont shout at me if it doesn't work!

Exactly what the Scoopydooers do I believe... no reason why you can't just rig up a separate washer bottle affair....but the pain of operating that and all the other control simultaneously might cause you to have an accident Pete? :eek: (Oh, what am I saying...:doh)
 
IIRC (been a couple of years now) we use to fit three position switches to the scooby and evos we did. Off/on with temp sender/permanently on.

Off for road sections.
Temp for general stage use.
Perm on really hot days and/or really slow stages etc
 
This has gotten off topic abit now, but I would suggest you do the following in the same order, especially as Off roading does not call for full power all of the time, even though at times you will be not moving forwards at any speed...

1) Intercooler fan- the alloy intercooler can be kept cool enough if full power isnt being asked for all of the time. We're not talking high levels of boost even with a standardly chipped engine, and it being an alloy intercooler will have quite abit of thermal mass.

2) water spray on the intercooler WITH A FAN and WITH methanol in it to lower its boiling point and encourage evaporation. 70% water is a good starting point mix.

3) Water/meth injection - biggest gains but must be done properly to avoid hydraulic-ing the motor and busting it!!

When you get above 20psi and on boost for most of the time, then a larger alloy front mount i/c would be appropriate, and then at this level, I would probably go straight to water injection to further control charge temps.

Hope this helps!
 
Please Please Lets not get into confusing a dirty 4X4 with a rally car.

A rally car will run on petrol that will benifite from a bigger intercooler as petrol will evaporate under temperature therfore reducing the effect of the spark.


But ask yourself . does your TDI pull well in the cold?????????????

All engines work better in cold weather , the air is more dense and contains more water vapour.


and to answer another question you existing window washer bottle is big enough to last for days , you are spraying a FINE MIST of water not giving it a swimming lesson. :)


And , petrol does NOT burn , petrol vapour+air does.
 
If you don't beleive me we can meet up sometime and I;ll show you liquid petrol does not burn.You bring some, I'll drop a match into it, it will go out.




On a cool day in a shallow container so there is no airspace above the petrol for petrol vapour to collect it can be done - but I was making a point as I'm sure you realised.

Brake fluid is actually the most dangerous fluid in a car. If you pour petrol on a hot exhaust manifold it will just evapourate, brake fluid will self ignite due to its low flash point.


well if ever we do meet up i will 'not' encourage you to try it! I have no faith in putting lighted matches to petrol and wouldnt want you to blow yourself up proving a point! I have done it with diesel, in fact you can throw diesel on a small fire and put it out! But as for petrol, i will leve that trick to Paul Daniels :thumbs
 
well if ever we do meet up i will 'not' encourage you to try it! I have no faith in putting lighted matches to petrol and wouldnt want you to blow yourself up proving a point! I have done it with diesel, in fact you can throw diesel on a small fire and put it out! But as for petrol, i will leve that trick to Paul Daniels :thumbs

At the moment my score is

Match went out 1 -1 Near catastrophic Loss of eyebrows.

wife wont let me play anymore today
 

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