Ignition switch/barrell issues?

[Ó hÉidin]

Following on from previous posts where i've had some help, i am still having starting and running troubles.

But the types of trouble changes all the time.

Today i replaced the battery cables and checked the alternator and battery. All came up good.

But still sluggish to start, i'm now master of the push-run-bump start.

Only today i noticed some queer things going on and i'm beginning tosuspect the ignition switch is faulty. Well, its very worn so i knew it was something to plan to change, but i get the feeling it could be playing up to my problems.

Here is a list of things i noticed.

The doors used to automatically lock on key on, they now dont lock, nothing happens.

Sometimes when i key off and remove the key i get the 3 beeps from the radio to remind me the fascia is still there. Sometimes i don't.

Occasionally i get a lower toned continuous beep if i key off and leave the key in the ignition.

I can key on 10 times, 9 of them the truck will turn over slowly, then stop like the battery died. The other 1 of the 10 it will fire no problems and run.

When i keyed on and the truck started, sometimes i would have no foot throttle and an idle speed of 1000rpm. But on inspection the key had kinda got stuck a bit passed the run position, if i pulled it back half a click, the idle drops down to the normal speed and my foot throttle comes active.

Still have continual lack of power and stall problems.

Now, i'm not smart but am i being stupid if i look past the ignition barrel?

If i replace, does it have to be genuine parts because of the immobiliser? Could i put a lucas key type ignition on it? Security isn't really a problem, i don't think the truck has been locked for 6 months.

Any ideas or suggestions.
Thanks in advance.

 

[clivvy]

hmmm..I doubt you need an entire ignition barrel, but you sound like you need an ignition switch-if it is burnt out then you will not only get starting problem, but other electrical niggles too-due to no electrical connection in the circuit.

thing is, you say its SLUGGISH to start..do you mean the engine turn over is slow, or do you mean you have to turn the key slowly to get it to start? because to me, sluggish to start sounds like a problem with glow plugs/relay or fuelling/fuel filter. If its just hard to start, as in turning the key sometimes results in nothing, or on off starting, then its the ignition switch.

the ignition switch is at the back of the barrel. To test the theory, if you have trouble starting one day, try turning the key SLOOOOOOWY...see if it then starts.

Im probably a bit off with my advice, but worth a try! :thumbs

 

[stinka]

Gen Nissan ignition switch only, there is a ring around the barrel that reads the transponder for the immobiliser but this is not part of switch

Have u tried a new maf sensor yet ? 90% of problems are caused by this, again its genuine dealer only, don't put a non gen in

Have u checked fault codes ?

 

[clivvy]

oh yeah, what Stinka says, and also to add to this, check your CKP sensor for the stalling issues BUT, any problem with the MAf or CKP will almost certainly generate a fault code, so get them read asap!

 

[Ó hÉidin]

Codes is a funny one, the mil light goes on, then when i cycle the power to restart the truck, the mil goes out.

Will the code be stored?

 

[stinka]

Codes is a funny one, the mil light goes on, then when i cycle the power to restart the truck, the mil goes out.

Will the code be stored?

Yep

 

[clivvy]

yes, with issues like the MAf and CKP, the codes can go away until the fault re occurs, such as when you stall it. Then, when it does a self check, it thinks everything is ok-because for example the ckp will have cooled down a bit, and the MAF is measuring air at idle.

this is one reason why I hate it when garages reset your codes, and tell you to go away and see if it returns....

 

[Ó hÉidin]

Sweet, got myself a new paperclip and all.

 

[clivvy]

Sweet, got myself a new paperclip and all.

awesome...go forth, and poke things with it...

 

[Banshee]

Codes is a funny one, the mil light goes on, then when i cycle the power to restart the truck, the mil goes out.

Will the code be stored?

Big lol from the bingo hall!!!!

 

[Ó hÉidin]

Not checked the code yet.

But drove it a bit today around the farm,

Kep hearing a whirring noise from behind the dash. Presumed it was the cd player spinning as the some times do.

Now thinking it was the starter motor spinning, but the solenoid to putting the bendix accross.

If this were the case, also ignition switch?

Thanks.

 

[Ó hÉidin]

Can anyone post a picture of what an ignition switch looks like?

Thanks

 

[solarman216]

I think you may have more than one fault, but ignition switch is a good place to start as it can lead to all sorts of problems, here is a pic the black bit with the wires on is the part you need to buy in the centre of the pic not the black part on the left, and I think they are one of the more reasonable priced items, the screws that hold it on are a tease but do able, Rick

 

[Ó hÉidin]

switch is up the swanny, thats for sure, not the cause of the fault, but is still trouble, need to know what wires are actually for power to the starter motor, i have a pulse switch here that i'll fit if i know where to fit it, which wire is which?

all help appreciated.