How to?

[Paff]

I know that there is some instructions on the drivers visor and if you read manuals, some info there. But to be brutally honest, if push comes to shove, I am not 100% sure how to use the high/low range stick.

I am sure I am not the only one and before I get into a situation where I need to use it, I'd like to have some instruction on how to correctly use it, so I feel more confident to do so. I've moved the stick to the different positions, that's all.

So how about it all you seasoned off roaders? Can you put an idiots guide to the use of on here please?

After all we have all got to start and learn sometime :thumb2

 

[bud]

I know that there is some instructions on the drivers visor and if you read manuals, some info there. But to be brutally honest, if push comes to shove, I am not 100% sure how to use the high/low range stick.

I am sure I am not the only one and before I get into a situation where I need to use it, I'd like to have some instruction on how to correctly use it, so I feel more confident to do so. I've moved the stick to the different positions, that's all.

So how about it all you seasoned off roaders? Can you put an idiots guide to the use of on here please?

After all we have all got to start and learn sometime :thumb2

Stop the vehicle, place it in neutral, take your foot of the brake pedal to take any tension off the drive line (at rest).

Shift the transfer case to the desired selection, place vehicle in gear and drive slowly forward. to ensure the front hubs have engaged properly..(assume you have automatic locking hubs)

Reverse the above to get back to 2wd.

It is best to engage 4wd just before you need it if you are already stuck or slipping on a hill etc you will hear and feel a jolt as you drive off in 4wd as the hubs engage.

I have found that the mistral/terrano 2 I own does not need to be reversed once the transfer case is back in 2wd to unlock the hubs again..but may not be the same for all.

If you get real good you can engage 4H on the fly. but you will still need to stop to go down to 4L

 

[zippy656]

Only tip.

Dont use on roads theres not enough slip as there is no centre dif

 

[AlexD333]

Stop the vehicle, place it in neutral, take your foot of the brake pedal to take any tension off the drive line (at rest).

Shift the transfer case to the desired selection, place vehicle in gear and drive slowly forward. to ensure the front hubs have engaged properly..(assume you have automatic locking hubs)

Reverse the above to get back to 2wd.

It is best to engage 4wd just before you need it if you are already stuck or slipping on a hill etc you will hear and feel a jolt as you drive off in 4wd as the hubs engage.

I have found that the mistral/terrano 2 I own does not need to be reversed once the transfer case is back in 2wd to unlock the hubs again..but may not be the same for all.

If you get real good you can engage 4H on the fly. but you will still need to stop to go down to 4L

+1 on this.

The 4H gear can be engaged whilst on the move, just place foot down on clutch and click the transfer stick down one notch, there is a speed limit for thi but to be honest I wouldn't use 4wd above 20mph (personally)

The 4h gear mentioned above has the same gear ratios as normal 2wd, I tend to use it on areas with a loss of traction but nothing too major.

The 4l gear is a different story, you must come to a complete stop to engage and disengage this gear. To engage this gear you have to push the transfer stick all the way back (also pushing it down along the way otherwise it will stop in neutral)

The 4l gear has a much shorter gear ratio, you will notice that first gear is only good for 5/10mph tops but the power is readily available. I only tend to use this gear for the more extreme stuff, deep ruts/mud ect, something you don't want to fly through but keep a constant traction.

I'm fairly sure there is a guide on here somewhere too :thumb2

Find somewhere and give it a play (not on solid ground obviously) :doh

Oh and read about gearbox windup, this can happen if you abuse the 4wd on normal roads when you shouldn't really use it

http://www.outbackcrossing.com.au/FourWheelDrive/Transmission_Wind-Up.shtml

I guess in a nutshell, if you haven't lost traction or are not about to don't use 4wd

 

[jims-terrano]

As said there are some instructions in the downloads sections too.

Paff i reckon yours will be fixed hubs on your motor, front transmission turns all the time but no drive until you select it.

Careful you use 4wd somewhere the wheels can slip if they need to. If you feel steering going tight or a lot extra drag then stop as may have transmission wind up.

 

[Paff]

+1 on this.

The 4H gear can be engaged whilst on the move, just place foot down on clutch and click the transfer stick down one notch, there is a speed limit for thi but to be honest I wouldn't use 4wd above 20mph (personally)

What abt an auto box?

 

[R1cho]

put it in park for 4l :thumbs 4h can be done on the go

 

[rustic]

+1 on this.

The 4H gear can be engaged whilst on the move, just place foot down on clutch and click the transfer stick down one notch, there is a speed limit for thi but to be honest I wouldn't use 4wd above 20mph (personally)
...

Not correct ...:augie


Depends if you have auto hubs or not.

If you have fixed hubs,
then you can engage 4 high at any speed without the clutch, just push 4 wheel drive lever back 1 notch.
NOTE: you must not have lost traction during this shift, as there could be a mismatch in prop speeds.
Prop shaft and front diff is already travelling at road speed.
Surface has to be slippery, ice or snow gravel mud etc.
You can also put it back into 2 high, no clutch needed.

If you have Manual hubs, then if they are set to engaged, then treat as per fixed hubs above.


The confusion comes with auto hubs.
These should not be engaged at speed greater than say 15-20 mph. as the diff, prop shafts, which are stationary, have to get to instant road speed, so expect a clunk and some extra wear and tear. Personally I only engage whilst just starting to set off.

Now here is the clever bit, as long as you are still travelling forward, and the auto hubs are engaged, then you can slip it into 2 high whilst still moving forward at any time, and you can still select 4 high on the move too, at any speed...
WARNING .... CAUTION.... if at any time during driving, the car is reversed, or allowed to roll back, then you can not be sure if the auto hubs are still engaged...so selecting 4 high at speed might wreck the drive train... transfer box... or auto hubs... .... BIG EXPENSE... You have been warned...

However I have been doing this for..... oh must be over 19 years now,:doh on snow and ice covered roads, including motorways at 50 + mph. Where conditions allow of course.:thumb2
Sometimes I drop it into 4 high when slowing for roundabouts when the surface is slippery, ice slush etc. On snow, the 4 wheel drive lever is moved in and out quite often, it is smooth no clunks, no noise, no stiffness it just glides in with minimum force.
Gearbox, auto hubs still original... So works for me.

HOWEVER: I was worried about the auto hubs dropping out, so I fitted a sensor to the front prop shaft, which if the shaft is rotating, it should be at road speed, and this lights a dash board light, so I know it is safe to engage 4 high at speed.

Also I know if I reverse a metre or so, to disengage the front auto hubs, then if the light comes on, then they have not disconnected.

Hope it helps.

BUT AS SAID... ONLY ENGAGE 4 LOW when the vehicle is stationary, and do NOT move the lever again, until stationary, but you can still use the normal gearbox in the normal way, but at much reduced speed overall.

NOTE: Selecting 4 low, requires pushing down, then back on the 4 wheel drive selector, but also note, it has a neutral position first.

ALSO NOTE... if you have done a body lift, then the selector might not move back into 4 low, unless you have been doing some surgery to the metal body work around the lever.



Rustic

 

[Paff]

Two things....

You talk about a manual box, mine is auto.

How do I know if I have auto hubs or manual hubs, then how to use manual hubs?

 

[R1cho]

manual hubs will have a twisty thing on them so you can lock them auto's don't

 

[AlexD333]

Not correct ...:augie


Depends if you have auto hubs or not.

If you have fixed hubs,
then you can engage 4 high at any speed without the clutch, just push 4 wheel drive lever back 1 notch.
NOTE: you must not have lost traction during this shift, as there could be a mismatch in prop speeds.
Prop shaft and front diff is already travelling at road speed.
Surface has to be slippery, ice or snow gravel mud etc.
You can also put it back into 2 high, no clutch needed.

If you have Manual hubs, then if they are set to engaged, then treat as per fixed hubs above.


The confusion comes with auto hubs.
These should not be engaged at speed greater than say 15-20 mph. as the diff, prop shafts, which are stationary, have to get to instant road speed, so expect a clunk and some extra wear and tear. Personally I only engage whilst just starting to set off.

Now here is the clever bit, as long as you are still travelling forward, and the auto hubs are engaged, then you can slip it into 2 high whilst still moving forward at any time, and you can still select 4 high on the move too, at any speed...
WARNING .... CAUTION.... if at any time during driving, the car is reversed, or allowed to roll back, then you can not be sure if the auto hubs are still engaged...so selecting 4 high at speed might wreck the drive train... transfer box... or auto hubs... .... BIG EXPENSE... You have been warned...

However I have been doing this for..... oh must be over 19 years now,:doh on snow and ice covered roads, including motorways at 50 + mph. Where conditions allow of course.:thumb2
Sometimes I drop it into 4 high when slowing for roundabouts when the surface is slippery, ice slush etc. On snow, the 4 wheel drive lever is moved in and out quite often, it is smooth no clunks, no noise, no stiffness it just glides in with minimum force.
Gearbox, auto hubs still original... So works for me.

HOWEVER: I was worried about the auto hubs dropping out, so I fitted a sensor to the front prop shaft, which if the shaft is rotating, it should be at road speed, and this lights a dash board light, so I know it is safe to engage 4 high at speed.

Also I know if I reverse a metre or so, to disengage the front auto hubs, then if the light comes on, then they have not disconnected.

Hope it helps.

BUT AS SAID... ONLY ENGAGE 4 LOW when the vehicle is stationary, and do NOT move the lever again, until stationary, but you can still use the normal gearbox in the normal way, but at much reduced speed overall.

NOTE: Selecting 4 low, requires pushing down, then back on the 4 wheel drive selector, but also note, it has a neutral position first.

ALSO NOTE... if you have done a body lift, then the selector might not move back into 4 low, unless you have been doing some surgery to the metal body work around the lever.



Rustic

Nice description Rustic! I still wouldn't be brave enough to engage the 4wd at any major speed, for some reason ive got it in my head that its bad :nenau

 

[rustic]

manual hubs will have a twisty thing on them so you can lock them auto's don't

Autos have the word "Automatic" on them :thumb2

 

[R1cho]

Autos have the word "Automatic" on them :thumb2

unless they dont like mine

 

[AlexD333]

unless they dont like mine

+1 on this

 

[Paff]

Getting confused now... it don't take much :lol

"Autos have the word "Automatic" on them" - Where?

"Manual hubs will have a twisty thing on them so you can lock them" - Where?

Under the center cap?

I had to go outside and have a look. Sorry to be thick - see photee and explain please

 

[AlexD333]

Getting confused now... it don't take much :lol

"Autos have the word "Automatic" on them" - Where?

"Manual hubs will have a twisty thing on them so you can lock them" - Where?

Under the center cap?

I had to go outside and have a look. Sorry to be thick - see photee and explain please

Looks just like mine, you will prob find that the internals are turning all the time but the drive to the wheels are only activated when the transfer stick is activated.

With manual hubs you have to quite literally manually activate them from outside i I'm not mistaken :doh

 

[jims-terrano]

Paff take a photo of the hub in the centre of your front wheels, you will probably have to remove the plastic cap if it has one.

Front Hubs Explained

Manual hubs - they have as said a small handle to twist. This locks the front wheels and drive shafts together when twisted. Only fitted to a few of the first Terranos but sometimes fitted as a aftermarket replacement to auto locking hubs. These can be locked so that the front transmission is turning but as long as the lever is kept in 2wd then it doesn't really cause much of a problem only fuel economy. So twist the handle to lock only when you think you are likely to need 4wd.

Auto Locking Hubs - fitted to most up to around 2001 ish. Very good when working correctly. These lock the front wheels to driveshafts when they detect the front shafts turning. These do not have any external controls at all. So simply engage 4wd and set off gently and hey presto. Once finished with 4wd, engage 2wd and find a safe place to stop and drive in the opposite direction for about a metre to unlock the hubs. If left unserviced the "brake rings"inside the hub can lock together and chip the lugs off them and cause problems.

Fixed Hubs - fitted from around 2001 ish. These are physically smaller than the other two. These are permanently locked and as such exactly like manuals will turn the front transmission but no drive sent to the front wheels unless 4wd is engaged by moving the lever. Easier to use but front transmission turning all the time mean that there is extra wear on the transmission such as UJs on the propshaft. Can also mean less mpg. Again there is no external control of these hubs.

Doesnt matter which hubs you have or manual or auto gearbox the same principals apply.

1.only use 4wd on slippery surfaces.
2. Can select 4h or 2h on the move though better done at lower speeds and I tend to dip clutch or drop the revs but i believe no need to do that.
3. To use 4l, come to a stop in a safe place and apply hand brake. Engage neutral gear and then pull the lever all the way back pressing down to go between h and l. The same to go back to h ratio.
4. After 4wd has been used find a safe place to go in opposite direction for a few feet. i do this even with my manual hubs and fixed hubs as in my opinion removes an built up tension in the drive train.

The above is how I explain hubs and how I use 4wd, refer to the manufacturers instructions for your vehicle :thumbs

 

[R1cho]

that looks like a fixed hub, so its on all the time anyway, just put it in 4wd and away you go

 

[Paff]

Paff take a photo of the hub in the centre of your front wheels, you will probably have to remove the plastic cap if it has one.

Jim - see post 15.

Thanks for the explanation :thumb2

 

[jims-terrano]

Not seen that, yeah defo fixed hub. Keep an eye on things like propshaft uj's. Dont know why but on the older transmissions all the UJ's used to have grease nipples but on the later fixed hubs where transmission turning all the time are sealed with no grease nipples. Bought a pair of front prop UJ's from milners and guess what they have nipples :thumbs