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i didnt , i took the cap off completely , you will only need to run it for a few seconds anyway
 
but im sure someone will correct me and point you in the right direction
 
I would think that if the head gasket had gone and Gas was escaping, it would collect in the heater pipe thus forming an airlock preventing water flow to the interior heater.

The interior heater is taken directly off the engine block, so it should get warm even hot before the stat opens.

There is a lot of metal, water, oil to warm up before any heat gets through to the cab, then there's that huge damn fan, air cooling the whole lot.
I'm surprised we get any heat at all.

Ok, start, drive a while heat comes through after a couple of miles, but start it up with ice on the screen, and wait for it to melt....... how long have you got.
That's why I'm glad it is garaged.
Right time for the plywood panel for the top half of the rad I guess.

Or take the fan blades off, in the old days a pair of blades could be removed for winter use, remember all the radiator muffs you used to see, aluminium foil etc.
Most cars have electric fans so not as big a problem of over cooling.

Winter draws on...
I said that to the post lady the other day, and she said and 2 pairs of thick tights....:lol:lol

well acctually when my head gasket went i still had warm air in the cabin but it was only warm
 
well acctually when my head gasket went i still had warm air in the cabin but it was only warm

So some water was being forced through, from the pressure of the gas from the head.

Not so long ago, someone posted a note saying that the head gaskets on the Nissan engines were bomb proof, and were rare....:doh

Not as rare as we first thought when we get on the topic, Or is it?

But is it only 10 in 2000 members?
Let's put it into perspective?

0.5 % is rare in my book. Just unlucky or what?
 
So some water was being forced through, from the pressure of the gas from the head.

Not so long ago, someone posted a note saying that the head gaskets on the Nissan engines were bomb proof, and were rare....:doh

Not as rare as we first thought when we get on the topic, Or is it?

But is it only 10 in 2000 members?
Let's put it into perspective?

0.5 % is rare in my book. Just unlucky or what?

i dont think the engines are that bomb proof tbh as their if you look into the london taxi 1 their has been reports of head gasket failure

also bear in mind mine had a fsh from nissan and ford with only 88000 miles on it

but they are alot better than some engines

hgf is a common thing across every car tbh its the part that is designed to give instead of the engine being us so it is really a fault waiting to happen same as cam chains and belts :thumbs
 
hi,no bubbles thankfully,just finished the coolant change havent driven it yet but am starting to think maybee temp sender unit,i flushed the radiator and it was as clean as,filled it with just water and drove it for an hour,up hills ,100km areas etc it still runs up to the red line on the hills but every where else it sat at about 82\85deg.the sender unit looks quite new compared to the other 2 around it so maybee its been replaced with the wrong one,thinking this because its allways sat at the same place when at normal operating temp,about 3\4 of the way up.even on cold frosty mornings,anyone got a photo of the original sender so i can compare?its been stinking hot here today 26degs so im in for a beer,ill drive it tommorrow and report back.thanks for everyones input,cheers pete
 
hot

I am lead to believe that there is a safety feature whereby the engine gets to hot and the aircon fan kicks in (same as a discovery).

have you checked the viscous fan - the fan will move by hand but you should feel some resistance.

if i kick the sh@t out of my truck it will only ever go halfway on the tempeture guage, normal driver the guage hardley moves but the heater still works ok.

good luck

paulp
 
hi all,more bloody problems.had the fuel pump rebuilt which has fixed the fuel leak,runs remarkably better.water leak still causing grief.replaced the o ring and gasket under thermostat housing nasty job,still leaked,found a split radiator hose nice easy fix,still ran a bit hot,drained coolant flushed system renewed coolant still runs at the same temp.found another we leak in the steel type plate where the water pump bolts on,apparently it means waterpump off timing gear out etc to replace the leaking gasket,apparently a major job,has anyone else had this done,cheers pete
 
I think my head gasket had been playing up a bit ,My son who is a mechanic reckons it was on its way out , Also due to work commitments he could not touch it for a couple of weeks .His mate who works in a parts department told him of a new product they had just started selling ,So he brought me some Steel Seal is the name of the product mind you its £29.99 but has a great success rate proven , so we tried it yesterday i will let you know the outcome but when we finished last night i had no back pressure into the header tank , Fingers crossed and know i have not payed him yet lol;)
 
Well i have been running two days with this new product .My Nissan Terrano is running at normal temperature and i have had no problems at all ,I will keep you all informed
 
If your head gasket is blowing/has been blowing then any additive will be short term solution at best, Rick
 
If your head gasket is blowing/has been blowing then any additive will be short term solution at best, Rick

now i have been reading rick that you can do some damage to the cooling sstem when using these sort of additives is this correct ?
what i have read says about causing blockages and stuff
 
If your head gasket is blowing/has been blowing then any additive will be short term solution at best, Rick

Short term solution maybe, but if you are on holiday, abroad especially, then this should be a get you home strategy.
Either take some with you.... £30 ouch, or make sure you know where to get some quick.

Next day delivery or even 2 days is probably quicker than a top end rebuild in foreign parts.:clap
You can even do it on the camp site, or on the pub car park while waiting for it to arrive.:thumbs

As anything, if you want a job done today, you pay high prices.
A good garage is generally busy all the time.
A quick repair with new gasket may sort the problem till you leave the country.... and then you could be £500 or more worse off, and you can't take it back if it fails.

£30 Peace of mind. What is the shelf life?
A small group of people could buy some, and take it with you when going abroad, may only cost you a fiver per head. If you use it you replace it.:thumbs
 
water pump removal from the manual :

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block.
Refer to MA section (“Changing Engine Coolant”, “ENGINE
MAINTENANCE”).
2. Remove radiator upper hose.
3. Remove radiator shroud.
4. Remove cooling fan.
5. Remove drive belt. Refer to MA section, “Checking Drive Belt”.
6. Remove insulator.
7. Remove vacuum pipe.
8. Remove TDC sensor. Refer to EM section, “TDC sensor
removal and installation” in “TIMING GEAR”.
9. Remove fan coupling with water pump.
10. Install in the reverse order of removal.

I arsume it's about the same for a Mistral ?
 
Short term solution maybe, but if you are on holiday, abroad especially, then this should be a get you home strategy.
Either take some with you.... £30 ouch, or make sure you know where to get some quick.

Next day delivery or even 2 days is probably quicker than a top end rebuild in foreign parts.:clap
You can even do it on the camp site, or on the pub car park while waiting for it to arrive.:thumbs

As anything, if you want a job done today, you pay high prices.
A good garage is generally busy all the time.
A quick repair with new gasket may sort the problem till you leave the country.... and then you could be £500 or more worse off, and you can't take it back if it fails.

£30 Peace of mind. What is the shelf life?
A small group of people could buy some, and take it with you when going abroad, may only cost you a fiver per head. If you use it you replace it.:thumbs

Steel Seal™ is a unique blend of several chemicals. Steel Seal™ is a clear formula that contains no fibrous materials or particles that could clog engine coolant passages. We don’t rely on floating particles to do our job. Steel Seal™ relies on science and chemistry for its strength.
 
Steel Seal™ is a unique blend of several chemicals. Steel Seal™ is a clear formula that contains no fibrous materials or particles that could clog engine coolant passages. We don’t rely on floating particles to do our job. Steel Seal™ relies on science and chemistry for its strength.

at the end of the day , its a bodge , whatever you call it , theres only one way to mend it properly i spose
 

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