how do i tweek the ip

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so its in my favour to fit the mech pump rather than remap? it certainly sounds a good idea to ditch the ecu:D

we need to chat about adding lpg at some point mate:thumb2
 
So far all the remaps I've seen peak at 30 bhp I believe that's simply because the IP won't do any more fuel. Which is why I went the LPG route and bigger turbo with more boost. I reckon I've got +25 BHP from the Tunit chip plus some extra bits of horses from the straight through zorst, bigger intercooler, and no EGR . LPG adds about 15 BHP maybe more , I'll find out soonish :naughty
I hope to end up around the 170 mark :cool: fingers crossed.
 
I have been to see my mechanic friend who has a good mech pump for 100 notes:D

as for fitting he said it was a piece of piss:D

so I can get this job done probably under 200 notes:D

but his question was.

He cant see how a pump from a 112bhp td can produce more power than the standard tdi with a remap:nenau

the eti pump was redesigned for the best compromise between emissions, fuel consumption and power in motor vehicles
With that in mind it will always be limited.

The TD27/T was originally a stationary plant motor. forklifts generators and boats etc
Not subject to emissions laws and fuel efficency.

At the time it was cheaper for nissan to pay the penalties for not building an engine that made it under the tier 1/2 emissions law requirements.
(some truck engine builders in the US still do this as it is cheaper to pay the penalty per engine then spend hundreds of millions on developing new fuel efficient engines)

With that in mind you can now understand why the older pump can deliver more fuel then its ECU controlled counterpart.
 
The mech pump can be adjusted to basically over fuel as Pete has said. We did it on my mates 306 after fitting a front mount intercooler & upping the boost loads, it was a bit of trial & error to get it set right at one stage when he took it for a spin up the road you couldn't see him due to the huge cloud of black smoke:doh his pump had a ground down LDA pin what ever that is but the difference in performance was like night & day
 
So far all the remaps I've seen peak at 30 bhp I believe that's simply because the IP won't do any more fuel. Which is why I went the LPG route and bigger turbo with more boost. I reckon I've got +25 BHP from the Tunit chip plus some extra bits of horses from the straight through zorst, bigger intercooler, and no EGR . LPG adds about 15 BHP maybe more , I'll find out soonish :naughty
I hope to end up around the 170 mark :cool: fingers crossed.

bear with me as this is all totally new to me as I have never messed with motors before but deffo want more power.

my tdi should be 125 bhp as standard. add a remap (150 quid) = 155bhp
add a maf amp or tunit chip and maybe 165:nenau

or I can fit a mech pump upgrade turbo,add bigger intercooler and lpg and have maybe an extra 10 bhp on top:nenau

the first option is looking easier and cheaper:nenau
 
bear with me as this is all totally new to me as I have never messed with motors before but deffo want more power.

my tdi should be 125 bhp as standard. add a remap (150 quid) = 155bhp
add a maf amp or tunit chip and maybe 165:nenau

or I can fit a mech pump upgrade turbo,add bigger intercooler and lpg and have maybe an extra 10 bhp on top:nenau

the first option is looking easier and cheaper:nenau

The MAF amp won't give you any more power output, but can help get up through the gears quicker. Remap will up the power. you can use both I think but check with Ray on that one.
LPG will give awesome results but not to be taken lightly.
I'm not up to speed on the actual potential of the mech pumps actual power deliver capabilities sorry mate, perhaps Bud can let us know.:rolleyes:
 
A performance air filter & free flowing exhaust will give you from 8-15 bhp, larger intercooler about another 10 bhp, i've no idea what the maf amp will give you but not sure if it would work well with a remap or tunit box & have no idea on what sort of power gain in bhp you would get from lpg as never dealt with it. Basically the colder & more air (in this case tweeking the turbo) you can get into the engine plus the fuel to match the bigger the bang inside the cylinders meaning more power. You will prob of noticed your motors have always seemed to have a bit more get up & go on cold wet days this is due to the air being more dense & containing more oxygen
 
A performance air filter & free flowing exhaust will give you from 8-15 bhp, larger intercooler about another 10 bhp, i've no idea what the maf amp will give you but not sure if it would work well with a remap or tunit box & have no idea on what sort of power gain in bhp you would get from lpg as never dealt with it. Basically the colder & more air (in this case tweeking the turbo) you can get into the engine plus the fuel to match the bigger the bang inside the cylinders meaning more power. You will prob of noticed your motors have always seemed to have a bit more get up & go on cold wet days this is due to the air being more dense & containing more oxygen

chip and tune as we call it here does work to a degree but you still have to play within the limits of the electronics.
It will basically bring the peak power output down the torque/hp curve getting you on boost sooner.
Then you are only looking at a 20%-30% increase give or take.

A maf can be tricked into giving full resistance sooner(telling the ecu i am at wide open throttle) but will still reach the point where it goes out side its measurable range and will hit a ceiling.

the mechanical pump will deliver more fuel (how much depends on the guy with the tools)right through out its rpm range giving more hp over the existing spectrum of the torque/hp curve right up to the point you have to physically limit it by not being stupid and holding the pedal on the floor or dumping the excess boost by way of a relief valve etc
 
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I don't know if I said it before mate but welcome to the club:thumb2
you are already a valuable member and a mind of information:D
 
can I still use veg oil through the mech pump?


anything that combusts under compression...jet fuel, aviation fuels, kerosene, carboned engine oil, carboned vegatable oil, etc etc...I strongly recommend only running jet A and kero at 60/40 though.
 
brought mech pump:D
wont be fitting it till I get back from wales though.
I take it I have to fit a new pedal too:naughty

next job will be beefing the turbo:D

I will probably buy one to beef up to keep my truck on the road while its being done.
not sure what is involved in this though:nenau
is it just the bearings need beefing?
I take it this is a specialist job:nenau
 
brought mech pump:D
wont be fitting it till I get back from wales though.
I take it I have to fit a new pedal too:naughty

next job will be beefing the turbo:D

I will probably buy one to beef up to keep my truck on the road while its being done.
not sure what is involved in this though:nenau
is it just the bearings need beefing?
I take it this is a specialist job:nenau

to increase the turbo ability you need bigger spinning bits, not just bearings, can be expensive, Rick
 
brought mech pump:D
wont be fitting it till I get back from wales though.
I take it I have to fit a new pedal too:naughty

next job will be beefing the turbo:D

I will probably buy one to beef up to keep my truck on the road while its being done.
not sure what is involved in this though:nenau
is it just the bearings need beefing?
I take it this is a specialist job:nenau

not nessassarily....

If you have a manual you can remove the potentometer, bracket and plate from behind/above the accelerator pedal you have and connect the accelrator cable directly like normal as the potentometer will now be redundant.

If you have an automatic transmission you can cut the top of said plate/braket and alloy casing the the potentometer and tps are housed in to make the nessassary clearance for the accelerator cable and once you are happy with the cables postion in relation to the TPS etc use a swash to join the two cables.(this is what i did as manual boxes for these things are like hens teeth here and the early TD27 navara/ute box wouldn't handle the new found power.

As for the turbo, find a T3 four bolt flange RB25det skyline turbo
321020350722.4inchesRB25DETTI.JPG

(those guys do free shipping too)

the general rule being when using petrol turbo's on diesel engines you want to use one with a turbine wheel that is suited to an engine half a litre smaller so you don't get too much lag. in this case a TD-05 H with a 18G compressor wheel/ and A/R 10 .75
 

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