The swap can be done with the engine in place.
parts required. a IP from a factory turbo TD27T. (complete)
The accelerator cable from the said donor vehicle.
A 3 ml T piece and half a meter of rubber tubing.
Tube of liquid gasket.
The mechanical pump uses boost pressure to vary the fuel load throughout the RPM range.
This is the diapram housing you can see atop the mechanical pump.
there are three fuel lines.
The main one here is the infeed from the filter
The two here, the smaller one returns from the injectors and the larger returns to the tank.
take note of the timing mark on the cover.
there are two marks on the harmonic balancer(crank shaft pulley) when the position of the first mark lines up this is TDC the second mark will line up when the marks on the injector pump sprokets lines up.
there are two marks either side of one tooth on the injector pump sproket and one mark on the drive sproket.
confirm this before undoing anything other then the timing gear cover, as all engines are tuned/set up slightly different
for the ETI engine, you will need to remove vaccum pump from below the Injector pump to access the bottom of the three bolts holding the IP to the timing housing.
Annoying with limited movement 12 ml ratchet spanner is the best thing since sliced bread in this department as there is not enough clearance for a socket and ratchet.
Now the important part..
when installing the pump don't tighten the 3 bolts that hold the pump to the housing right up...fairly tight but not that tight you couldn't move the pump with a pry bar(the 3 holes are slotted for a reason)
the timing will not be perfect but to get it drivable straight away do not undo this bolt on the bracket...only the two that bolt it to the engine block..the aforementioned bolt resides in a slotted hole and needs to be loosened in order to adjust the timing. loosen it without bolting to the block first you lose the abililty to set the timing with a range that will allow the engine to run the first time you try to start it.
When you first start the truck for the first time it rattles more then it did before the timing is too advanced..you will need to loosen the aforementioned bolt get a pry bar and stick it between the block and the pump and force the bottom of the pump away from the block...be careful..you only need to make very small adjustments.
The accelerator cable is pretty self explainatory. you will need to unbolt your pedal and remove the plate from behind it in order to feed the cable through the fire wall. the hole and the bolts are covered by rubber gromets.
The picture below is the fuel adjustment screw...when you adjust this you also need to adjust the idle screw on the cable linkage as the more you adjust this the higher your idle will go too.
there are two types of mechanical pumps. one wire and two wire.
one wire is the fuel shut off solenoid that both types will have. the other is the fast idle for cold starting etc and allows extra fuel in (that switch on your dash board that says (HEAT UP)....thats what it will be wired too.
