Hole in chassis, drivers wheel arch

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keefbeef

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 1, 2016
Messages
131
Very sad tonight. Didn't buy this truck as a project, but turning into that. I'm not confident with my welding skills and tend to have people around me that don't encourage the give it a go attitude...nevertheless, can't afford to get someone to do it and would hate to see the 1500 quid going down the drain. So, cheer me up boys!! :surrender

Got this hole (or three holes to be precise).

My finger is in the hole on the underside of the chassis rail. Then the other hole is to the right of the brake flex holder.

OXAf8wi.jpg


There is another hole above that. Looking at the other side, it appears that a plate was behind this as the hole above flex holder in the chassis exists on the other side and there is a thinner bit attached inside the chassis - as if its a two part section from manufacturer. (if that makes sense).

CW6v6W4.jpg


So, how to fix this? My thinking is:

1. Cut off the brake holder so that a good bit can be cut away.
2. Cut a bit away on the face and patch with a 2.5mm plate? Butt or lap?
3. The hole below, cut this away separate and patch with another smaller bit of 2.5mm plate.
 
Carefull how you support the vehicle because at the moment it will be weakened so you may need more than one jack.

My son likes to clean the area up with a brush on the grinder, if you do this expect the hole to enlarge a little. He also likes to cut a patch to the hole and weld it flush. Personally on such a hole I would be possibly doing as my son but also making a patch that goes a good distance further than the damage and plate over it. Do one section at a time. Maybe weld a temporary plate over the top of some of the damage to support whilst you repair other sections if you know what I mean.

Yes I would cut any brake pipe brackets off to make a good repair and then weld the bracket on top of your repair.

Personally I would give the whole area a good clean off with the grinder and wirebrush attachment. Then have a good look at it and assess the repairs and plan. Like I said support the area well so that you don't stress it and I would be tempted not to drive it just in case.

Good luck and I'm sure with a little time you can bring it round.
 
Thanks Jim. Its parked up. No plans to drive it until all the work is done, so no worries with that. Good point about the support for it. Wheels are still on it, but will have to take that off to sort, but will make sure its well supported on axle stands. I'm paranoid about a car falling on top of me!!!
 
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that is serious, and needs professional attention, it needs knocking big time with a pointed hammer to establish just how far the rot has gone, but I fear much more than you can see, if you want a holiday in the UK for a long weekend I can sort that for you, Rick
 
Rick, you're meant to be cheering me up!! Took a hammer to it and generally not too bad around it but the problem is where it is. There is a cross-member mount just between the holes (either side). I assume you can't really patch around the mount! You would need to cut it off, repair the section as a one and weld onto the replace patched. This picture is below the rail, with mount marked in red.

I also suspect that the chassis rail itself has maybe rotted away behind the mount for the suspension. Not sure how you would even start to replace that!! Professional assessment defo! Its a shame, as apart from this, the truck isn't too bad (famous last words)

7uCpHog.jpg
 
Oh Crickey that looks a lot worse with that photo. Think you need to carefully consider where to go from here. I'd be a bit worried to say the least with a chassis like that. How long have you had it and when was it last MOT'd?
 
Just got it a couple of months ago, and has an mot up to Oct 17th 2016. Not driving it at the minute, but assume this is fixable?? Got it as a spare car, for towing. That's the worst part, and think that side of the car must have been badly hit by corrosion, for whatever reason - as the other side is pretty fine - just surface rust.
 
Having spent years rebuilding my truck, including miles of welding, I believe that to be a stinker :eek:
As Rick suggested, there will need to be a lot cut out to find where some real steel is remaining to weld on to.
That area is high load too with top arm bolts just near it.
All sortable but strip all down first and big time clean up , good luck :rolleyes:
 
Cheers Makeitfit - at least it fixable - just need to cut back to see how bad it is. Fingers crossed!! The fact its high load, need to do a proper job of it!!
 
If it was me, I would get it jacked up and supported in at least a couple of places and remove the wheel.

Get the grinder wirebrush on and clean it all off. Maybe remove the brake pipe bracket.

Then take more photos and assess the job.

Also Id go over kill with bigger plates so it gives plenty support. Probably one section at a time. I wouldn't try and do 90 degree bends but instead seem weld plates where they meet. I'd probably try and use thicker plate maybe 3mm or so.

Accept the rust has started and all you can really do is slow down the inevitable. That said the bigger the plates passed the damage it will surely last longer.

Good luck and keep posting photos especially after you have cleaned it up.
 
I feel your pain. But when the work is done, you will know that you have contributed to keeping a great machine on the road.

Paul
 
Probably one of the only bit I haven't had to fix. However you may find internal gusseting around there. Open carefully.
Here's a repair my son did on my chassis by a body mount.
Inner chassis brace.

Then over size outer skin

Before returning body support

Some repairs we've done by using box section and cutting in half, then over lap them side to side.
I reckon you'll need top arm off at least.
Chunk at a time, enjoy :thumbs
 

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