Ho! No!Go!

[jonela]

Done the paperclip trick and it is showing two fault codes
13 Engine coolant sensor
43 Accelerator pedal position
Engine coolant sensor was replaced 5000 miles ago as the needle hardly moved and I thought it was faulty after change it was no different.

Accelerator , could this be the problem or have i coursed this fault when I took it off to clean it. If it is this what are the options complete pedal assembly, or just the black box on the end of the drum. and dose this mean it defiantly not the pump.?

 

[jonela]

Ok I am officially pulling my hair out now, I have replaced the accelerator pedal with one I got from Clivvy,(Arrived today,thanks Cilvvy) but it has made no difference. It still just starts and just about ticks over.
Pressing the pedal makes no difference at all.
Has any one any ideas where to go next?

 

[clivvy]

so when you press the pedal, the revs don't rise?!?

have you got access to Nissan consult software and laptop? That's how I monitored mine. Have you checked the earth on the engine block from the pedal? There are two small wires bolted to the top of the block above the oil dip stick-undo them, clean and replace.

 

[jonela]

That's right, no increase in revs just the same lumpy tick over. checked the earths just now
cleaned them up,no change;;; Drat!

 

[clivvy]

That's right, no increase in revs just the same lumpy tick over. checked the earths just now
cleaned them up,no change;;; Drat!

that's odd, I had exactly that (see my PM) and fitting the pedal you have now cured it! There must be something else for you. Brake switch is related in some way but I cant remember how, the software will show you so much. In My video you can see the accelerator switch turning on/off-so I knew that was working, then we could see the throttle increasing in voltage, but not revving the engine, so the position sensor wasn't working.

It will help to see what voltage you are getting at the pedal etc, but you could try tracing the wires from the plugs at the top of the pedal through the loom as far as you can-look for snags or shorts under the dash. Double check your position sensor plug is not damaged or frayed - the small white one that goes into the microswitch on the pedal.

the software will help you to diagnose a pump fault or not as well, so although you have to buy the tool and probably a serial to USB converter (unless your laptop has a serial connection) the actual job of running the software and diagnosing is a million times easier than guess work! It was a god send when I fixed my pedal problem- I arsed about for ages until I got that software.

 

[solarman216]

I have seen someplace that if the brake pedal is pressed that the ecu reverts to idle, if the connection to the ecu is bad then even if the brake lights work as should the ecu may have the wrong signal it may even work through a relay, rayf is the guy who will know, Rick

 

[clivvy]

I have seen someplace that if the brake pedal is pressed that the ecu reverts to idle, if the connection to the ecu is bad then even if the brake lights work as should the ecu may have the wrong signal it may even work through a relay, rayf is the guy who will know, Rick

That's right, I'm sure its Ray that told me that-links to a faulty brake pedal sensor.....

 

[jonela]

with lots of help from Clivvy (big big thanks!) I have managed to get together all the diagnostic bits and bobs to use the ECUtalk software. had my first go yesterday after a lot of trouble with drivers etc, i managed to get it working but it could not read fault codes and the gauges kept freezing ?
Any way, the limited amount of readings I was able to get were as follows
RPM 550-570rpm
Battery 13-14v
C Sleeve pos 250-270
Air Flow 2.00
Injection timing 70-100
and the throttle position gauge was moving round as i pressed the pedal but no rise in revs.
is there anyone out there with knowledge of this program who can help me to make seance of these readings.

 

[darryl]

with lots of help from Clivvy (big big thanks!) I have managed to get together all the diagnostic bits and bobs to use the ECUtalk software. had my first go yesterday after a lot of trouble with drivers etc, i managed to get it working but it could not read fault codes and the gauges kept freezing ?
Any way, the limited amount of readings I was able to get were as follows
RPM 550-570rpm
Battery 13-14v
C Sleeve pos 250-270
Air Flow 2.00
Injection timing 70-100
and the throttle position gauge was moving round as i pressed the pedal but no rise in revs.
is there anyone out there with knowledge of this program who can help me to make seance of these readings.

does the car rev if you do it from under the bonnet basically bypassing the pedal

 

[jonela]

As far as I know this can't be done, as its fly by wire unless there is a way I dont know of?

 

[darryl]

As far as I know this can't be done, as its fly by wire unless there is a way I dont know of?

sorry mate im learning on here every day think I just got what fly by wire is sorry

 

[jonela]

Me too mate! lol

 

[rayf3262]

ECUtalk has an option to display DBR's (digital bit registers) these will show the state of various switch type sensors.
You need to check the state of the Idle switch when you press the pedal, the gauge displayed should swing between 0 & 1 when the pedal is pressed away from rest.

Also, check BOTH brake pedal switches in the manner.

 

[jonela]

Thanks RayF, any idea Why its not showing fault codes? or freezing dials?

 

[rayf3262]

Thanks RayF, any idea Why its not showing fault codes? or freezing dials?

Off the top of my head, not really, although if you are using a USB<->Serial adapter I might suspect the correct operation of that, some of those adapters can be a pain.

 

[jonela]

There are actually two switches on the brake pedal:


BRAKE SWITCH
The ECM receives signals from two brake switches. One is a conventional brake lamp switch, the other is referred to as a redundant brake switch 2.


See EC-401 for the diagram.

been looking at this again as a possible cause,but on EC400 it says it will drop the revs to 1200rpm but mine idles at 550ish. Not only that but there's a diagram on EC 403 which shows the two switches,but mine only has one switch, ? dose this mean i can rule this out as the cause?

 

[rayf3262]

I think the idle switch on the throttle pedal assy. is a more likley candidate.

 

[MudLifeCrisis]

That's right, no increase in revs just the same lumpy tick over. checked the earths just now
cleaned them up,no change;;; Drat!

Had this on mine recently . Charged battery and fault went.

Might be worth a try

Brian

 

[jonela]

OK, Here is another go to see if anyone has any other suggestions as to what could be the problem or can give me guidance as to how to use the ECUTalk soft wear.
Its not the idle switch as the peddle has been changed and the battery was charged after I got it back from the garage, ,? I relay need to get it back on the road as i am putting mega miles on the LWB Help!!!!

 

[jonela]

Had a strange thing happen today which could be a clue to the problem with the SWB
I was moving one of the trailers I hooked it up to the LWB and went to set off and the same thing happened as with the SWB, it would tick over but would not rev. I un hooked the trailer and it was ok again so i stuck the trailer back on and it was still ok
so what could have caused this? its getting to the stage were if I can't get SWB going soon its off to the scrappers !