Here we go again...

[briggie]

not sure, that shows the fuel pump being in the boot area, i thought the issue was fuel injection pump, isnt that the part below the power steering pump?

sorry mate ... this might help then .... from page 300 onwards .... i hope it helps

http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/ec.pdf

 

[Hilltop]

not sure, that shows the fuel pump being in the boot area, i thought the issue was fuel injection pump, isnt that the part below the power steering pump?[/QUOE]

That because your looking at the pump for the petrol model. Try the next page!






.

 

[briggie]

for what its worth , im convinced it is either ..

( a ) a earthing issue

(b) a wiring /shorting problem with the fuel pump

( correct thread this time :augie )

 

[Hilltop]

not sure, that shows the fuel pump being in the boot area, i thought the issue was fuel injection pump, isnt that the part below the power steering pump?[/QUOE]

That because your looking at the pump for the petrol model. Try the next page!






.

 

[clivvy]

im really not sure Pete, i am thinking along the same lines as you, as I have already had multiple issues with the wiring, problem is, i dont know what the wiring should look like. going to have a scan at Jims tomorrow, if he doesnt mind!

 

[Hilltop]

ok, went out into the rain and had a look. cant see any issues with the pump, although it IS hard to see down there! all plugs are plugged in, and i traced back to the loom near the intercooler, and again the plugs all seem fine and clean.

I also checked the main negative battery lead. on mine, the wire runs from a grounding point on the engine block, under the pwoer steering bottle bracket to the battery-so very tight. i wanted to move it so it went round, but found that under the coolant bottle, its joined...see here:

is that right??...

No its not right! get rid of the old amp tag thats used to join the 2 wires and make a proper soldered and insulated joint, it wont do harm and it may well solve your problems.



Bob




.

 

[clivvy]

Thanks Bob, this is yet another dodgy bit of wiring on the truck then. I'll get a new one made at the car electrical place asap...it'll cost a fortune but if it fixes the issue it's worth it...

 

[clivvy]

ok, bit of an update. checked Jims truck, and my wiring (earth wires etc) are all the same as his, including the negative battery cable which is crimped and clamped under the power steering fluid bottle.

I have shown Larson and Jims-Terrano the weird idling problem, for them, it wasnt too obvious, but I was able to at least replicate it. Jim suggested it may be an issue with vacuum, in particular break. The reason why he suggested this is that I pointed out it happened when i jet washed under the car once, and pressing the breaks made the idle issues 10 times worse.

we traced the pipes, and on mine, the pipe from the egr splits off to two solenoids, one of the solenoids goes off to the breaks. I took the pipe off the T joint, and blanked by fitting a shelf mounting thing between that and a spare peice of pipe, refitted and went for a very short drive. the car drives ok, breaks ok, but not sure yet if it has actually cured the issue, or if it drives better. My other half says if i rev the car at idle, i get a puff of black smoke first time, then nothing, but not loads of black smoke.

also, the code 18 hasnt come back yet.

miffed....

oh we also found that i probably need a new Thermostat, as the engine isnt getting up to temperature, needle gets half way between 1/4 and 1/2 mark, never higher, and never to half way. It used to go half way until I did various jobs on the car now it doesnt.

I wonder if, because the engine isnt getting to temp, the glow plugs are playing up??

 

[briggie]

ok, bit of an update. checked Jims truck, and my wiring (earth wires etc) are all the same as his, including the negative battery cable which is crimped and clamped under the power steering fluid bottle.

I have shown Larson and Jims-Terrano the weird idling problem, for them, it wasnt too obvious, but I was able to at least replicate it. Jim suggested it may be an issue with vacuum, in particular break. The reason why he suggested this is that I pointed out it happened when i jet washed under the car once, and pressing the breaks made the idle issues 10 times worse.

we traced the pipes, and on mine, the pipe from the egr splits off to two solenoids, one of the solenoids goes off to the breaks. I took the pipe off the T joint, and blanked by fitting a shelf mounting thing between that and a spare peice of pipe, refitted and went for a very short drive. the car drives ok, breaks ok, but not sure yet if it has actually cured the issue, or if it drives better. My other half says if i rev the car at idle, i get a puff of black smoke first time, then nothing, but not loads of black smoke.

also, the code 18 hasnt come back yet.

miffed....

oh we also found that i probably need a new Thermostat, as the engine isnt getting up to temperature, needle gets half way between 1/4 and 1/2 mark, never higher, and never to half way. It used to go half way until I did various jobs on the car now it doesnt.

I wonder if, because the engine isnt getting to temp, the glow plugs are playing up??

as far as im aware clive , the glow plugs are only used to start the engine , compression takes over after that

 

[clivvy]

true Pete, but glow plugs continue work for some time after starting untill a certain engine temp has been reached, 50 degrees i think.

I took the truck out again this afternoon for a longer drive. went up 2 miles to petrol station, that was busy so went back 2 miles to another petrol station. added air to tyres as they were all out, and set them to 26 at front, and 30 at back. drove home and didnt HAMMER the car, but gave it a little bit of a push and it seems good. its still doing the idling thing, but seems much less now?? heres a pic of the job i did on the solenoid pipe for the egr...

you can just see the silver shelf thingy (those you get with book shelves), i simply cut the pipe, put that in and re joined the egr pipe.

 

[jims-terrano]

I found it strange that your altenrator doesn't have a vacuum pump on the back of it. We traced vacuum pipe from the servo doewn to the NS inner wing where it meets the EGR Solenoids and then on carry's on under the front of the engine somewhere. After that it may go to the inlet manifold, just didn't see it. Sounds daft but is it getting enough vacuum?

I wouldn't be worrying about the Thermostat and temp guage reading yet. The glow plugs heat up on full pelt for a few seconds and then go on to half power until engine reaches a running temp. Easy thing to check what glow plugs are actually doing is have a bulb or meter inside the car connected to the buzz bar that connects the glow plugs together.

Jim

 

[clivvy]

ah good point Jim, I forgot to trace the pipe before doing the EGR thing, but will have a look at it a little later.

as for the EGR job, still not sure if it has actually made a difference, so I suppose next step is to take the valve off so I can inspect?

 

[clivvy]

I traced that pipe Jim, it goes under the front, up to....the injection pump...??so, the system goes from the break master cylinder, round to a three way splitter, that goes off to the EGR solenoids, a sensor plug under the fuel filter and the injection pump. So is that a vacuum setup or something??

 

[jims-terrano]

I'm pretty convinced that the pipe is a vacuum pipe as it goes into the Servo and looks like a push fit into the servo. So does it get it's vacuum from the injector pump? if there's a leak in the pipe work would this cause a loss of vacuum and then cause EGR related problems. Remember how pumping the brakes used up the vacuum so the engine revs changed possibly building the vacuum back up. If that is right is it constantly having to rebuild the vacuum pressure.

Right that's my 2 peneth:nenau

Jim

 

[clivvy]

no idea Jim, i am hoping some members can verify how the system works, certainly makes sense, seems logical, but I just dont know. All the pipes LOOK in tact, had my torch on them all cant see any splits that are obvious...

 

[briggie]

no idea Jim, i am hoping some members can verify how the system works, certainly makes sense, seems logical, but I just dont know. All the pipes LOOK in tact, had my torch on them all cant see any splits that are obvious...

might be the ends not fitting properly ? .... not a gas tight seal perhaps ? .... i dunno :nenau

 

[briggie]

if its any good mate .... i have 2 rolls of ptfe tape you can have .....:nenau

 

[clivvy]

its ok Pete, im almost certain its not that. checked all the ends and they appear ok, in fact some of the pipes might not even be as old as the truck. going to see how it goes now ive blocked the pipe solenoid end. I might have to remove the egr valve yet and block that off too or fix it...

 

[clivvy]

took the car out for a few spins last few days. Today, took out for fuel, and a few miles trip. All ok. Then had to go to recycle centre, work, B&Q then home, so about 12 mile ish, again, all ok. this is with the SOLENOID EGR end of pipe, BLOCKED, NOT the EGR itself, i cant tell if its better, its certainly still doing the idle thing, so is it worth me removing the EGR itself for a look/clean/repair?

everything seems to drive ok. i get a weird thing if i am flooring it, up hill and switch to third. its like it drop s a bit, then goes again, any ideas what that is? always ok in 2nd...

 

[larson]

clivvy i have been told ou can have the diesel put on a laptop at feather diesel ( elland) for about £50 and they will tell you whats wrong with it and the cost for them to wright the wrong.. mine will be going soon as im getting a black cloud behind me when it gets the beans

larson