jims-terrano
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Less to go wrong:thumbs
Hello and help!
- Thread starter Phlipper
- Start date
Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:
Less to go wrong:thumbs
zippy656
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terranosaurusdoug
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Blocky10
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Get in front of blocky10 on laning trip...
Rev engine...
p155 him off:naughty
It's like being stoned. Constantly starving hungry:surrender
don simon
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Used cooking oil might want to be filtered a bit, but off the shelf cooking oil goes straight in.
Have a read of this.
Banshee
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It's all about the correct mods for the ratio that you want to run. These engines and pumps would do a 50/50 mix until the chassis dropped in half with no modification needed other than regular fuel filter changes.
I've gone the whole hog though sir in an attempt to prove that you can run 100% Vegetable Oil all year around with no additives, no diesel, nothing!!!!!
To get to this state though I've done a fair few mods and still some to go including;
Heated Eckes Fuel Filter Mod
Heat Exchanger
Removed Banjo Filter in IP
Decent Glow Plugs
Decent Battery and probably a few more things that I can't remember right now :splif
It has come at a cost though, running such high ratios neat has meant that the rubber seals on my Bosch pump have perished and my pump is now leaking and I get the EML light every journey with the same DTC 21 every time!!! I'll be doing a pump rebuild soon on a spare I have on the workbench that I'll be fitting vegetable oil proof Viton seals to :clap :naughty
I've gone the whole hog though sir in an attempt to prove that you can run 100% Vegetable Oil all year around with no additives, no diesel, nothing!!!!!
To get to this state though I've done a fair few mods and still some to go including;
Heated Eckes Fuel Filter Mod
Heat Exchanger
Removed Banjo Filter in IP
Decent Glow Plugs
Decent Battery and probably a few more things that I can't remember right now :splif
It has come at a cost though, running such high ratios neat has meant that the rubber seals on my Bosch pump have perished and my pump is now leaking and I get the EML light every journey with the same DTC 21 every time!!! I'll be doing a pump rebuild soon on a spare I have on the workbench that I'll be fitting vegetable oil proof Viton seals to :clap :naughty
Think I'll let it settle a while before giving it a try. The niggles are starting to mount in just the few miles I've done so far.
When cold I can't get her into gear, I have to turn it off , put her in 1st and restart with clutch down. Gears are difficult, particularly with low revs, but get better as she warms up. Any ideas? I'm guessing it's the clutch, but it's puzzling me that it's not the same when the engine is warm (I should have spotted that it had a warm engine when i went to see it really - shiny new car syndrome methinks).
When cold I can't get her into gear, I have to turn it off , put her in 1st and restart with clutch down. Gears are difficult, particularly with low revs, but get better as she warms up. Any ideas? I'm guessing it's the clutch, but it's puzzling me that it's not the same when the engine is warm (I should have spotted that it had a warm engine when i went to see it really - shiny new car syndrome methinks).
jims-terrano
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This might be a Solarman with your gears. However, my first thoughts are change the gear oil.
By the way if you hear a horrible grinding clunk when manouvering at low speed it'll be your steering stops that need greasing.
Take a look at the downloads section in quick links as there are plenty how to guides. Nice to see you've turned blue by the way, you'll not regret it.
By the way if you hear a horrible grinding clunk when manouvering at low speed it'll be your steering stops that need greasing.
Take a look at the downloads section in quick links as there are plenty how to guides. Nice to see you've turned blue by the way, you'll not regret it.
RJL Services
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Could be air in clutch system try pumping the peday a few times when you first get in if it improves then this might be an:thumb2 area to look at
Banshee
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I had the difficulty engaging gears when cold and mine improved when warm too. I had 80w-90 in the gearbox and it was awful.
When I did my clutch swap I drained it and refilled with Comma SX75W-90 GL4
That is the crucial part, GL5 will eat the copper components in these gearboxes!!!!
When I did my clutch swap I drained it and refilled with Comma SX75W-90 GL4
That is the crucial part, GL5 will eat the copper components in these gearboxes!!!!
macabethiel
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V5 details not completed properly
That sounds like an Import as the V5 registration Book is generated by the DVLA is from the Manufacturers V55/1 or 2 form that contains all the vehicle specification including, Manufacturer, Model, Engine & Chassis details, Emissions, Type Approval, etc or in later cases by a similar electronic version during a Dealers Direct Registration to DVLA called AFRL.
Import (V5) log books are generated by filling in a V55/5 manually, quite often these only contain very basic details such as Manufacturer and type as 4x4 as the original registration document will be in the language where the vehicle was first registered. If it Japan of a language with a different alphabet then details will be minimal.
You can tell if it is imported as the front outer page of the V5 document will have an entry in section 3 near the bottom declaring the vehicle has been registered or used overseas plus the year of manufacture. This will be a different date to that on page 2 - this will be the date of first registration in the UK.
In very rare cases some vehicle details can be missing where a duplicate form V55/1 or 2 has been generated by a UK dealer as the original has been lost or spoilt. This is done by filling in a blank V55/1 or 2 but these were a high security document when I was in the trade and I only ever came across one such form.
Hope this helps.
That sounds like an Import as the V5 registration Book is generated by the DVLA is from the Manufacturers V55/1 or 2 form that contains all the vehicle specification including, Manufacturer, Model, Engine & Chassis details, Emissions, Type Approval, etc or in later cases by a similar electronic version during a Dealers Direct Registration to DVLA called AFRL.
Import (V5) log books are generated by filling in a V55/5 manually, quite often these only contain very basic details such as Manufacturer and type as 4x4 as the original registration document will be in the language where the vehicle was first registered. If it Japan of a language with a different alphabet then details will be minimal.
You can tell if it is imported as the front outer page of the V5 document will have an entry in section 3 near the bottom declaring the vehicle has been registered or used overseas plus the year of manufacture. This will be a different date to that on page 2 - this will be the date of first registration in the UK.
In very rare cases some vehicle details can be missing where a duplicate form V55/1 or 2 has been generated by a UK dealer as the original has been lost or spoilt. This is done by filling in a blank V55/1 or 2 but these were a high security document when I was in the trade and I only ever came across one such form.
Hope this helps.
Well... she's gone in for her MOT today (the garage is doing the weld patch), but on the way to the garage I noticed the hazard light switch isn't connected to anything. The mechanic said instantly that the button didn't look like the right fit to him, and the harness connectors don't fit on the button that's in place. Any ideas? This button is above the hole for the stereo, but on the images I can find on the net the stereo panel looks far more of an integrated affair - mine is much plainer, just a hole for the stereo and the hazard button above. Can't find anything on eBay to remedy this and the connectors that are hanging suggest to me that the panel should be different because the connector that must run to the hazard switch looks a bit more complicated than needed.
Please ignore... images won't post
Might have some light on it... found an identical spec for sale, console looks like this:
http://www.kingscarsales.co.uk/used...e-in-cinderford-gloucestershire/aetv22017605/
Whereas mine looks like this:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...=ZjqtWZWpC-mIgAaYtJjwBg#imgrc=sFJdLX6psZwjSM:
Might have some light on it... found an identical spec for sale, console looks like this:
http://www.kingscarsales.co.uk/used...e-in-cinderford-gloucestershire/aetv22017605/
Whereas mine looks like this:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...=ZjqtWZWpC-mIgAaYtJjwBg#imgrc=sFJdLX6psZwjSM:
Last edited by a moderator:
Banshee
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Well... it seems I've been done up like a kipper :doh
My mechanic just phoned me, the car's come from the MOT test with FIVE PAGES of failures
It seems I've paid £695 for a decent looking piece of scrap, I can't find it in myself to try and pass on the bad luck to some other poor soul, leaving me stuck without a car. Mechanic's going to take a good look at it himself on the ramp to see if it just reads worse than it is, but I'm not holding out much hope.
My mechanic just phoned me, the car's come from the MOT test with FIVE PAGES of failures
It seems I've paid £695 for a decent looking piece of scrap, I can't find it in myself to try and pass on the bad luck to some other poor soul, leaving me stuck without a car. Mechanic's going to take a good look at it himself on the ramp to see if it just reads worse than it is, but I'm not holding out much hope.
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Oh what shi* but even a private sale has a redress if you were told lies about the condition of the vehicle, lets see what your guy says about the report, Rick
