Heater fan.......(again)

[quixote]

Bit of a confession.................I was faffing about with an Avo to check a duff resistor panel & ended up blowing what I thought was the heater fan fuse :doh

Turns out there are two (which makes sense as Position 4 would have its own) & neither have blown so I think I've popped the relay. The truck's an '04 T2. Can anyone point me in the direction of the relay in question?

 

[jims-terrano]

Drop a pm to cncfabs he breaks these trucks

 

[Banshee]

Bit of a confession.................I was faffing about with an Avo to check a duff resistor panel & ended up blowing what I thought was the heater fan fuse :doh

Turns out there are two (which makes sense as Position 4 would have its own) & neither have blown so I think I've popped the relay. The truck's an '04 T2. Can anyone point me in the direction of the relay in question?

If you find out the one in question, take a picture of it in situe as I have a box full

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

hi,, slightly off topic but related, where is the heater resistor located.

mines been good far too long really must sort,

 

[jims-terrano]

Doesnt it say in the download

 

[Paff]

Are you talking about the fan speed rheostat?

If so, on a T2 2001 it is near the fan in the passengers foot well. Two screws and it drops down, unplug and solder a bridge over the blown gap.

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

yeah rheostat, seen download, but not sure on where its on car.

just a look and found a brown 4/6 pin wide plug,.

working from bonnet release, appear to be after what i assume is fan motor
as can just about sense it turning within casing with selector on 4.

piece that plug comes out of does look like could be as per download, screw
to each side of socket.

cant see anything else in middle of dash area.

 

[Paff]

Yes it is in the passengers foot-well near the fan? motor. Two screws to undo, but watch out as you might like me undo a fan screw :doh

It will then pull out of a small slit, plenty of cable to work with, remove the brown connector. It looks like a thin card type PCB. Use a bit of emery paper to expose some of the track, use a multi meter on continuity setting to test the track. Mine was obvious as I could see the 'blown' gap. Solder a small length of insulated wire bared at the ends and solder over the gap to make a circuit. I only had to do one repair, but there may be more. Refit connector and test, if OK carefully slip it back into the slit, you may need to cut a bit to allow the repair wire to go through depending on the thickness of the wire used, mine went in without doing anything.

Sit down with a coffee in the smug knowledge that you have saved yourself some cash :clap

Good luck :thumb2

 

[arcascomp]

Yes it is in the passengers foot-well near the fan? motor. Two screws to undo, but watch out as you might like me undo a fan screw :doh

It will then pull out of a small slit, plenty of cable to work with, remove the brown connector. It looks like a thin card type PCB. Use a bit of emery paper to expose some of the track, use a multi meter on continuity setting to test the track. Mine was obvious as I could see the 'blown' gap. Solder a small length of insulated wire bared at the ends and solder over the gap to make a circuit. I only had to do one repair, but there may be more. Refit connector and test, if OK carefully slip it back into the slit, you may need to cut a bit to allow the repair wire to go through depending on the thickness of the wire used, mine went in without doing anything.

Sit down with a coffee in the smug knowledge that you have saved yourself some cash :clap

Good luck :thumb2

Not all of them are thin blade like resistors, my 1996 truck has a rectangular box thing instead, but it's in the same place. Easiest to remove the glovebox and the metal bar behind that to give you the access needed to get at it.

I realised how BAD the carpet smelt while doing this job! Had to give it a right old clean afterwards!

 

[Paff]

Must have changed the layout on later models :nenau mine is a 2001 and Thomas-the-Terrano2 is 2002, so just assumed that his would be like mine. I didn't have to take the glove box out, you can get to this year no bother :thumb2

 

[glanrichbex]

DO NOT solder across these 'fusible links' would you put a nail in a fuse holder?

These resistive links are the only protection against your motor going short circuit, if the motor does stall due to bearing failure or short circuit field / armature windings then it will draw huge current and burn out or possibly go on fire.

The links do get tired over the years and do fail at the thinnest parts which are designed to be a 'weak link' - it's less than £60 which is a bit cheaper than a burnt out truck :thumbs

 

[Paff]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-TE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35d7e4b752

DO NOT solder across these 'fusible links' would you put a nail in a fuse holder?

These resistive links are the only protection against your motor going short circuit, if the motor does stall due to bearing failure or short circuit field / armature windings then it will draw huge current and burn out or possibly go on fire.

The links do get tired over the years and do fail at the thinnest parts which are designed to be a 'weak link' - it's less than £60 which is a bit cheaper than a burnt out truck :thumbs

Thanks, you have just cheered me up :doh

So does that mean that this workshop repair should be removed for safety?

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/downloads/workshop/wk41.pdf

I think I'll look for a new part if it's that risky...

Found this on fleabay, is that what I want?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-TE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35d7e4b752

Thanks for that heads up :thumb2

 

[cncfabs]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-TE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35d7e4b752

Thanks, you have just cheered me up :doh

So does that mean that this workshop repair should be removed for safety?

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/downloads/workshop/wk41.pdf

I think I'll look for a new part if it's that risky...

Found this on fleabay, is that what I want?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-TE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35d7e4b752

Thanks for that heads up :thumb2

Would have thought there was a fuse to protect from short curcuit but its an interesting point who would be liable if incorrect info on a forum caused serios injury and lets face it theres a lot of missinformation on internet forums:doh

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

refered this to Bat21.

wk 18 shows locating and removing to swap item.

wk 41 shows repairing it. I have recommended we pull this one based
on glanrichbex's input.

I did notice that when I unplugged the unit, the fan still worked on 4!

 

[glanrichbex]

The fan will work on setting 4 with the module disconnected as the resistor unit is switched out of circuit, so basically the motor is running with no ballast in series. :thumbs

 

[Paff]

I am going to play safe and have bought a new one from fleabay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231255357266?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I checked with the seller and he assures me that it is correct for a T2 and for £26 is worth a punt :augie

 

[glanrichbex]

Would have thought there was a fuse to protect from short curcuit but its an interesting point who would be liable if incorrect info on a forum caused serios injury and lets face it theres a lot of missinformation on internet forums:doh

There is a fuse but it will only fail in the event of excess current - i.e if the motor is on setting 4 and it stalls / develops a short circuit fault.

If you place a resistor in series with the motor i.e setting 1,2 and 3 then the current is limited by the resistor and so the fuse would not blow even if you deliberately short circuited the motor itself with a piece of wire, all that would happen is that you would place 12volts across the resistor and it would get very hot very quickly.

To avoid the resistor behaving like a toaster element, there are fusible links in each resistor circuit 1, 2 and 3 which will blow open circuit in the event of a fault.

The new units on ebay look alright and a good price - certainly better than the alternative. :thumbs

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

The fan will work on setting 4 with the module disconnected as the resistor unit is switched out of circuit, so basically the motor is running with no ballast in series. :thumbs

yeah thought so as unplugged it in situ and noted ran on 4 still.

tonight have removed unit. cant see flaws yet thought was little bit of grey
to one side, debris form fusing?

atleast still runs on 4 whilst locate replacement.

 

[Paff]

...The new units on ebay look alright and a good price - certainly better than the alternative. :thumbs

Obviously not genuine Nissan, but I received it this morning, removed the time bomb repaired one and fitted the new one. Seems to work OK, time will tell. What I did notice under a label on the box was a crossed out number... 27150-2M105 which if you Google will find a load of Chinese manufacturers selling them in bulk quantities.

 

[AlexD333]

Obviously not genuine Nissan, but I received it this morning, removed the time bomb repaired one and fitted the new one. Seems to work OK, time will tell. What I did notice under a label on the box was a crossed out number... 27150-2M105 which if you Google will find a load of Chinese manufacturers selling them in bulk quantities.

Oh dear, has it been crossed out by Byron pen :lol