Gauze in tank ? sender etc

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The only thing I can think of that will respond to a quick flick of the ignition off then on again that cures the problem short term is a vacuum component, what I can see is a faulty vac valve that allows vac to build up (cos it is leaking) and turning the ignition off depletes the vac immediately, so restoring power, now I do ot have a diesel so cannot check it out as to what valve it may be, but this area has to be worth a look, I cannot see any other electrical fault causing this in the manner described, Rick
 
The only thing I can think of that will respond to a quick flick of the ignition off then on again that cures the problem short term is a vacuum component, what I can see is a faulty vac valve that allows vac to build up (cos it is leaking) and turning the ignition off depletes the vac immediately, so restoring power, now I do ot have a diesel so cannot check it out as to what valve it may be, but this area has to be worth a look, I cannot see any other electrical fault causing this in the manner described, Rick

when you say 'vac valve' do you mean a valve that could control the egr flap or the throttle flap ?
 
i suspect injectors however disconnect the fuel lines at both ends and blow it out with compressed air then remove fuel filter and poor contents onto some kitchen towel leave to settle threw the kitchen towel and look threw a magnifying glass checking for foreign body's i.e. metal fragments if all is well try changing injectors over for new or good working order second hand ones if this fails again i would be looking to get the wiring from ecu to injectors this is done by checking the resistance going to injectors hope this helps and questions give Neil a call on 0779 199 5835
 
when you say 'vac valve' do you mean a valve that could control the egr flap or the throttle flap ?

Do not know, possibly the throttle flap that should stay open, I would fix this open anyway as it is useless, but yes this could be the problem, I am not familiar
with the vac valves on the diesel, but would def fix throttle flap open it is there only to stop engine rock on stopping, Rick
 
i suspect injectors however disconnect the fuel lines at both ends and blow it out with compressed air then remove fuel filter and poor contents onto some kitchen towel leave to settle threw the kitchen towel and look threw a magnifying glass checking for foreign body's i.e. metal fragments if all is well try changing injectors over for new or good working order second hand ones if this fails again i would be looking to get the wiring from ecu to injectors this is done by checking the resistance going to injectors hope this helps and questions give Neil a call on 0779 199 5835

i doubt injectors tbh, sureky there would be a constant fault if injectors were knackered
 
they could just be faulty n not completely knackered id maybe try the turbo activator doubt it but its a possibility best of luck kind regards, Neil

and what ever it is thats wrong at least its not a disco !!!!!!!

How ever i would like to cram a V8 into mel's terrano :clap:clap but just starting out in the fabrication business so pennys r tight
 
i doubt injectors tbh, sureky there would be a constant fault if injectors were knackered

Dare I say it could be ecu fault as it will almost never blame itself but other components I have a strange uneven revs when the engine comes back down to idle or u keep the review in the same range between 900ish to 1100ish i have replaced pump with second hand pump no change done all injector and replace with new injector no.1 bit better but still there new fuel lines from tank to pump new filter housing no diff disconnet water temp for ecu and plug in a spare sensor but not in cooling system and its alot better for longer until it heats up in the airflow and back to square 1 so the sensor is affecting it but its anew sensor so it looks to me ecu related or has any1 else got any ideas
 
ok, so from this thread and the others, basically, I SHOULD REPLACE EVERYTHING ...

srsly tho guys, where to start :doh
 
Mmm from what I remember with Briggies motor it is the vacuum that holds it open, but thinking about it on cold starting the vacuum pump will not be rotating fast enough so it probably is the other way about, but tying a knot in the pipe is not good enough better to disconnect it and stick a drill in the pipe, IF THE VALVE IS OPEN AT REST, Rick
 
Mmm from what I remember with Briggies motor it is the vacuum that holds it open, but thinking about it on cold starting the vacuum pump will not be rotating fast enough so it probably is the other way about, but tying a knot in the pipe is not good enough better to disconnect it and stick a drill in the pipe, IF THE VALVE IS OPEN AT REST, Rick

What do you mean by 'stick a drill in the pipe' ?

use a drill bit to block the pipe ... ?
 
I am really feeling for you on this mate, If I could help I would! I would have shot the bloody thing by now, on stuck it on ebay and bought another. You are a brave man, stick at it :thumb2
 
Well it's that intermittent that I can live with it at the moment, as some days it's fine

Also I've not actually thrown money at this fault yet

Going to deal with the throttle valve and egr first, get rid of those

I'm thinking it could be the throttle peddle potentiometer after that, so might move that way but it's going to take some time.

Could do with a local td27 owner to swap bits over for a week one at a time to test them ...

Might be cheaper to look for a smashed one that's a runner In the end tho and break it after I've swapped stuff
 
What do you mean by 'stick a drill in the pipe' ?

use a drill bit to block the pipe ... ?

When you have disconnected the rubber tube from the valve you need to seal the pipe or vacuum will be lost that could effect your brakes so you put something in the pipe to seal it, many people think a bolt of the right size will do but it is useless, the threads form a path, so for simplicity I advise a drill, the end that goes in the chuck as it will seal well if just a little larger than the orifice in pipe, so having got that far if your throttle plate is now not operating are you still having problems, Rick
 
When you have disconnected the rubber tube from the valve you need to seal the pipe or vacuum will be lost that could effect your brakes so you put something in the pipe to seal it, many people think a bolt of the right size will do but it is useless, the threads form a path, so for simplicity I advise a drill, the end that goes in the chuck as it will seal well if just a little larger than the orifice in pipe, so having got that far if your throttle plate is now not operating are you still having problems, Rick

Ok, sorted throttle valve, took linkage out from actuator and fixed flap in place vertically by packing spindle with washers and tightening nut

NO DIFFERENCE :/
 
god stinka ur having some right probs with this motor since i first saw u up at carsington

whats happened to it or is it just faults that have developed more over time
 
god stinka ur having some right probs with this motor since i first saw u up at carsington

whats happened to it or is it just faults that have developed more over time

Aye, they have developed since I've owned it, it was sweet for 2 months of thrash :lol

I think its been driven around by a granny all its life and my rally raid style has freaked the shit out of it
 
Aye, they have developed since I've owned it, it was sweet for 2 months of thrash :lol

I think its been driven around by a granny all its life and my rally raid style has freaked the shit out of it

I think you need to buy a grey wig and a floral dress mate, that way, it will think the granny is back and you may just fool it into behaving it's self:augie:augie
 

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