Front Hubs

[lacroupade]

hi again, its a t reg with round lights. I've just been on the phone to him and he also is saying that when in 2wd its making a winding voice and fells as it is trying to jump out of 2wd or 4wd. not quite sure what he means however, when 4wd is selected it doesn't make this noise. i'm going to try and do what you said about the tarmac tomorrow thanks. cheers, Simon:augie

Worth doing Simon as it does sound like potentially something is happening back to front. Instructions should be on the sun visor but for 2WD the left hand gearstick should be in the hard forward position. Pull it back one clunk and it should be in 4WD (and the green light comes on), you can do this stationary, in gear or at up to about 25mph - to revert to 2WD just push the stick forward again and reverse a couple of metres in a straight line. Green light should go out.

For 4WD low, just follow the first step, make sure gearbox is in neutral, then push down on the 4WD selector stick and pull back another notch. Drive will then be geared at more than twice the standard rate, meaning you can only do about 40mph flat out before it hits the rev limiter in top gear.

To get out of 4WD low, just stop, gearbox to neutral, push 4WD stick forward a notch, let it spring up, then forward another notch, then do the reversing thing to totally disengage the hubs and make the green light go off.

The facelift square headlight version has fixed hubs, hence the reason for my question.

Be interested to hear the outcome as I've seen the light inoperative, but never working arse about face? BUt then logic says that whatever the warning system, it may well be around the hub area, as the light certainly doesn't go off just by selecting 2WD, it waits for the reverse manoeuvre and for the actual hubs to disengage AFAIK......Rick (Solarman) might have a view as he's just been doing an investigatory dismantle on a hub.....

Good luck

Paul

 

[geoffdown]

Worth doing Simon as it does sound like potentially something is happening back to front. Instructions should be on the sun visor but for 2WD the left hand gearstick should be in the hard forward position. Pull it back one clunk and it should be in 4WD (and the green light comes on), you can do this stationary, in gear or at up to about 25mph - to revert to 2WD just push the stick forward again and reverse a couple of metres in a straight line. Green light should go out.

For 4WD low, just follow the first step, make sure gearbox is in neutral, then push down on the 4WD selector stick and pull back another notch. Drive will then be geared at more than twice the standard rate, meaning you can only do about 40mph flat out before it hits the rev limiter in top gear.

To get out of 4WD low, just stop, gearbox to neutral, push 4WD stick forward a notch, let it spring up, then forward another notch, then do the reversing thing to totally disengage the hubs and make the green light go off.

The facelift square headlight version has fixed hubs, hence the reason for my question.

Be interested to hear the outcome as I've seen the light inoperative, but never working arse about face? BUt then logic says that whatever the warning system, it may well be around the hub area, as the light certainly doesn't go off just by selecting 2WD, it waits for the reverse manoeuvre and for the actual hubs to disengage AFAIK......Rick (Solarman) might have a view as he's just been doing an investigatory dismantle on a hub.....

Good luck

Paul

Hi light from what I see is a switch in the transfer box reason y the light keeps on for little bit is because of wind up in the transfer box I have the face lift and I got auto hubs hope that helps.

 

[lacroupade]

Hi light from what I see is a switch in the transfer box reason y the light keeps on for little bit is because of wind up in the transfer box I have the face lift and I got auto hubs hope that helps.

Well that makes sense and sounds feasible, although I'm wondering where all this windup gets accommodated....I mean the reason the tyres skip in tight steering lock is to let all that go, I'm not clear how a gearbox could get wound up per se?

 

[Sparks61]

I've been reading this one out of interest. From what I see from the manual the 2/4WD switch is indeed mounted in the transfer case ( Page TF-9 of the transfer section) and from the wiring diagram is a simple make/break switch. The lamp doesn't even have any damping in the gauge by the look of it (page EL-86).
Interestingly the transfer box disassembly quotes for the switches "Remove the switches, check plugs, check springs and check balls". Having never had one in bits I don't know what it runs on but it sounds like it runs on some kind of cam on a selector shaft ??
Interesting what you said, Lacroupade, about having to reverse to disengage the 4WD indication - I at first though I had to do that as that was how it seemed to behave but over here you can get on roads where you switch from gravel to tarmac quite a bit and it was a pain in the bum stopping each time to disengage. So I ended up saying bugger it, knocking it into 2WD and carrying on - if I just eased off the throttle the light goes out. So it seems perhaps the switch ball runs on an assembly which slides on a shaft in the TF box which will not disengage under load ? Reversing de-loads it AND disengages the hubs ?? Going to have a play today to confirm when the light goes out.

 

[lacroupade]

I've been reading this one out of interest. From what I see from the manual the 2/4WD switch is indeed mounted in the transfer case ( Page TF-9 of the transfer section) and from the wiring diagram is a simple make/break switch. The lamp doesn't even have any damping in the gauge by the look of it (page EL-86).
Interestingly the transfer box disassembly quotes for the switches "Remove the switches, check plugs, check springs and check balls". Having never had one in bits I don't know what it runs on but it sounds like it runs on some kind of cam on a selector shaft ??
Interesting what you said, Lacroupade, about having to reverse to disengage the 4WD indication - I at first though I had to do that as that was how it seemed to behave but over here you can get on roads where you switch from gravel to tarmac quite a bit and it was a pain in the bum stopping each time to disengage. So I ended up saying bugger it, knocking it into 2WD and carrying on - if I just eased off the throttle the light goes out. So it seems perhaps the switch ball runs on an assembly which slides on a shaft in the TF box which will not disengage under load ? Reversing de-loads it AND disengages the hubs ?? Going to have a play today to confirm when the light goes out.

Ah but Sparks, you have fixed hubs as do all facelift trucks.....these don't have the auto hub assembly and 4WD can be engaged at ANY speed....I've even done it at 90mph on a wet road without incident.

But I am not clear how the disengage takes place on facelifters - you definitely DON'T need to reverse (see sun visor instructions) but on both my facelift trucks theres often a delay with the light going out after I've selected it back to 2WD....but as you say, lifting off or changing down a cog can help

 

[Sparks61]

Ahhhh - thank you for clearing up a doubt in my mind. To be honest I wasn't sure what was fitted as the caps were not necessarily the originals. So these are fixed hubs ?

This would be good news for me. As you say, the sun visor says nothing about reversing and the manual just says "where fitted" and I didn't know if these were or not.

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

moving lever from 4 hi to 2hi is going to take truck out of 4wd physically
what ever the light says. the lever disengages the dog clutch, frankly
end of.

this is case for all types of hubs, though front end prop will continue to
spin driven by front wheels, in a fixed huib for ever, or auto hub til you
reverse off and they free, or manuals when you twist the lever.

I dont see how lever can work in reverse, unless its jammed and actually
stuck in 4wd or 2wd. Solar man says theres only one lever going into the
TF so the function split between 2-4wd and hi-lo must be inside, which
is one less thing to get covered in muck and seize on the outside.

 

[slattimer]

Hi again,
had a play today and found 4wd not working. Took front hubs off(auto) and found that on one side there is a fitting that appears to lock into the hubs. it has 2 lugs and fits 1/4 turn into place. can i ask a question? should there be a visible spring to push this into place or does it lock itself. i know that there is a spring inside the main assembly but not sure how it locks in place as i have fitted 3 parts to the axle then slide this part on the outside and put the 6 bolts back in. so is this correct as the other side does not have this fitting and I'm thinking this is the reason the 4wd is not working. lay under car and turn props haft by hand and it locks so think main box is ok. but when in 2wd and turning it it spins fine but none of the auto hubs engage? cheers for the help so far.:thumbs

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

never had to repair my autos, but think you can bodge them in the field
to be locked, if have trouble. then you're just like a newer fixed hub
model and just select on the lever.

mind if had trouble would go manuals as are cheaper. but autos aren't
inherently troublesome, unless abused previously.

 

[slattimer]

happy days 4wd sorted thanks .
Simon

 

[keith t]

bearing question

hi all, i have a t2 51 reg and my mate who`s a vauxhall mech said my wheels had too much play in them so he tightened the shim things but they must be too tight now as it just seems to be slower to get up to speed and feels slower getting into gear (auto) so i was going to get them slackened off as i`ve been told there should be a bit of play on 4x4 wheels by another mate with his own garage who does work on 4x4`s . but he recons if i get them slackened off that could knacker the bearings ? has anyone loosened the shim things on there`s if so was it ok afterwards.as you can tell by my description (shim things) i`m not the most mechanical guy around by shim i mean the round flange with all the wholes in that loosens or tightens.
cheers
keith

 

[makeitfit]

Yes slacken off a bit. They could well do with new grease in them now too. As if they've been run tight and ordinary grease used, it will have got hot and left the building. It's quite clear in the manual how to tighten properly the front bearings.
Good luck :thumbs

 

[11redrex]

And where is the elusive manual ? The links don't seem to work anymore.
Re the hubs, should you work on them with the wheels on or off ?

 

[makeitfit]

See if this works http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fwd.pdf
Wheels off so the bearing is not loaded :thumbs

 

[keith t]

thanks for the reply

cheers guys for the tips i`ll get them slackened off a touch and get them re greased at the weekend and hope all goes to plan i`ve nearly got all the problems sorted on the truck just got to sort the f**kin brake issue out, every time i take it to my mate to look at they work fine. he`s thinking it could be the abs sensor or pump ,but wouldn`t the abs light come on ( the light does work, it comes on for a second when i turn the ignition so the previuos owner hasn`t pulled the bulb) every now and then when i`m braking slowly the pedal feels like its jumping up and down and the brakes don`t work , but take my foot off then back on and perfect. changed the brake cylinder as it was leaking thought it may have been causing an air trap but still has same prob. my thought is brake caliper as in the past with normal cars i`ve had with same sort of prob its been sticky caliper, but as i`ve said i`m no mechanic. so i guess i`ll get abs sensors and pump checked out and see how things go.
cheers guys
keith

 

[makeitfit]

Callipers are known to have sticking sliders, easy fix by a strip down and clean and regrease.
When the brakes were done last did you bleed the rear load sensor bleed valve? It's high up over the rear axle, near enough. You could still have some air in there.

 

[richtheracer]

Ive just done all corners of mine with new shoes , cylinders and pads. But when i bled them I only bled the four corners. Brakes feel ok and stop ok but will not having bled this extra bit affect performance of brakes? Non ABS Mk1 Mav if that helps.
Cheers Rich

 

[makeitfit]

Well it's the high point at the back end so could still have some air in it. Depends how much you lost in the process. It may only come to light on extended braking for example.
So if you find the pedal starts to fall then go round again:thumb2

 

[eurag]

Front Hubs. Am I missing something?

Hi,

My auto hubs aren't working. Stripped and regreased but still no front wheel drive. I tried rotating the front prop shaft but the hubs do not lock. The transfer box is fine and the shaft locks when 4wd is engaged. There is talk about brake rings but no photos so I am not sure if something is missing as both sides are the same. Help!

 

[eurag]

The Hub