Front Downpipe Replacement

[Banshee]

Got my nice new shiny front downpipe from James , he's pulled in a Terrano that was an MOT fail but looks as if it's recently had a new full Walker exhaust system fitted, stainless steel and can still see the adhesive labels on it :thumb2

Was going to just jump straight in and replace it but remembered that I'd need new gaskets for it and some paste, ordered them from Milners :bow

I've had a quick look under the car and it's def my flexi blowing, doesn't look too much of a ballache to remove the old pipe but certainly doesn't look easy.

I'm going to soak the bolts tonight in preparation for removal

I've been told removing the front prop is a must, will I lose any fluid when I remove it?, and is there any way to avoid loosing fluid? Like when you jack the rear up when removing the rear prop?

Can I get away with not removing the gearbox mount? That looks a little involved :doh, if IO do remove that, is it just a case of support the gearbox on a jack or axle stand?

Cheers Boyos

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

When I did mine the other week, I undid the 4 bolts through the flange at the front of the prop... no oil leaked out at all... Make sure you mark both halves of the flange, so you put it back the same..

The cross bar, is just fiddly, as you say, support the back of the gear box on a trolley jack, and just undo the 2 bolts each side holding it to the chassis, and the 2 in the middle holding it to the gearbox. You will need to lift the gear box up a bit, to create enough room to wriggle it out.

I found that the old style, dogleg, ring spanners are the best for getting at the nut on the top of the two chassis fixings, as it is in a dish shaped hollow, and the pipes get in the way of using a socket.

 

[TONUP]

Changing the front pipe is a fiddly job, but not at all technical to do.

The main issue I encountered when doing it was the three studs that attach it to the exhaust manifold. They were really rusty, and the last one I undid broke, which I was warned might happen.

I got the old front pipe off without removing the front prop-shaft, but I didn't have to be careful with it. When installing the new pipe I did remove it, marking it as Lazy Ferret advises above. It was easy to take off and put back on and there were no fluids to lose. It certainly made the installation of the new pipe easier (in my opinion).

Couple of things I did was to get the car as high as I could for plenty of crawling around and manoeuvring space (I am a fatty though!), and remove the passenger side front wheel, as you can get good access to the three exhaust flange nuts at the manifold from this position.

I was able to install a complete system in 4-5 hours taking my time, and repairing the stud.

Good luck with it.

Regards

Alan

 

[Banshee]

When I did mine the other week, I undid the 4 bolts through the flange at the front of the prop... no oil leaked out at all... Make sure you mark both halves of the flange, so you put it back the same..

The cross bar, is just fiddly, as you say, support the back of the gear box on a trolley jack, and just undo the 2 bolts each side holding it to the chassis, and the 2 in the middle holding it to the gearbox. You will need to lift the gear box up a bit, to create enough room to wriggle it out.

I found that the old style, dogleg, ring spanners are the best for getting at the nut on the top of the two chassis fixings, as it is in a dish shaped hollow, and the pipes get in the way of using a socket.

You reckon I could do it without removing the gearbox mount at all?

Also what's the best access route for removing the bolt that isn't in view behind the turbo?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

I did my bolts from under the car with 1 x 12" and 1 x 18" extension bars and the flexy joint, on my socket set.

 

[Banshee]

This place just gets better by the day!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Fez_uk]

I managed to replace my exhaust without having to remove the front prop or any gearbox mounts.

Just get under the thing and do it

 

[Banshee]

I managed to replace my exhaust without having to remove the front prop or any gearbox mounts.

Just get under the thing and do it

I'd love to as the sun is beaming down here at the moment but by the time I leave it will be dark

 

[TONUP]

I did my bolts from under the car with 1 x 12" and 1 x 18" extension bars and the flexy joint, on my socket set.

That's how I got to the rear manifold nut.

Regards

Alan

 

[davenclaire]

I managed to replace my exhaust without having to remove the front prop or any gearbox mounts.

Just get under the thing and do it

same here didnt remove a thing

 

[makeitfit]

same here didnt remove a thing

Same here simples but is a 2 cup of tea job

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

So... have you done it yet, and if you have, how much did you have to remove?

 

[Banshee]

So... have you done it yet, and if you have, how much did you have to remove?

Wait right there and i'll get you some pics up

 

[Banshee]

Removed the 4 bolts each side of the front prop and dropped it off, taking the time to check the UJ's athe the same time

I then removed the passengers sode front wheel and splash guard which gave me access to the 3 bolts to remove the top section of the downpipe, this is the view from the wheelarch

The nut that is out of sight at the back can only be removed from the underside of the truck, the only way I could get to it (thanks to terranobreakersshropshire for this tip) was a 1/2 imch ratchet 2 long extension bars, a flexi joint and a long reach 14mm socket!!!!!!

Then I moved to the back of the car and attempted to remove the back two nuts and bolts and true to japanese form they sheared

So angle grinder out and sent the misses off to find me some stainless steel replacements, here's the pic she sent me from the shop (she's a good egg)

Refitting was the opposite of removal of course fitting a new gasket set and not loosing a propshaft bolt like I did!!!! :doh

Old and new together

I can 2000% confirm the gearbox mount does not need to be removed

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

The nut that is out of sight at the back can only be removed from the underside of the truck, the only way I could get to it (thanks to terranobreakersshropshire for this tip) was a 1/2 imch ratchet 2 long extension bars, a flexi joint and a long reach 14mm socket!!!!!!

Aahhhhheeemmmmm :augie:augie

Go back and check WHO gave you that tip!!!!!!:lol

Hopefully I will not have to do it for a while, but I still can't see how you did it without removing the gearbox support.. I can only guess that you push it up and out the wheel arch, where you removed the cover to get the clearance to go behind the support. I left the wheel and cover on when I did mine.

 

[makeitfit]

Removed the 4 bolts each side of the front prop and dropped it off, taking the time to check the UJ's athe the same time

I then removed the passengers sode front wheel and splash guard which gave me access to the 3 bolts to remove the top section of the downpipe, this is the view from the wheelarch

The nut that is out of sight at the back can only be removed from the underside of the truck, the only way I could get to it (thanks to terranobreakersshropshire for this tip) was a 1/2 imch ratchet 2 long extension bars, a flexi joint and a long reach 14mm socket!!!!!!

Then I moved to the back of the car and attempted to remove the back two nuts and bolts and true to japanese form they sheared

So angle grinder out and sent the misses off to find me some stainless steel replacements, here's the pic she sent me from the shop (she's a good egg)

Refitting was the opposite of removal of course fitting a new gasket set and not loosing a propshaft bolt like I did!!!! :doh

Old and new together

I can 2000% confirm the gearbox mount does not need to be removed

pfft THIS is a front down pipe :naughty

Size is everything

 

[Banshee]

Aahhhhheeemmmmm :augie:augie

Go back and check WHO gave you that tip!!!!!!:lol

Hopefully I will not have to do it for a while, but I still can't see how you did it without removing the gearbox support.. I can only guess that you push it up and out the wheel arch, where you removed the cover to get the clearance to go behind the support. I left the wheel and cover on when I did mine.

Ah so you did!!!! Lol James also told me this info as well on the phone which is why it stuck in my mind

When I removed it, I pulled it out towards the back of the truck

 

[Bigbunny2007]

pfft THIS is a front down pipe :naughty

Size is everything

What is that bad boy from? Does that bolt straight to the turbo?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Ah so you did!!!! Lol James also told me this info as well on the phone which is why it stuck in my mind

When I removed it, I pulled it out towards the back of the truck

So you took the whole length through the gap between the gearbox cross member and the body?

I did look at that, but I could not get enough of an angle to get it past the front of the silencer with out some serious bending of the flexy joint, and levering the silencer more than I was comfortable with.

 

[makeitfit]

What is that bad boy from? Does that bolt straight to the turbo?

Off my T2 :sly Yep straight off the turbo. It's the turbo exhaust elbow thing that's the stinker on these systems, just so restrictive.
The whole lot just fits stright up from underneath. Nothing to undo anywhere :sly