Engine rebuild and power mods

[luke1987]

Now if someone could just make a td27 adjustable cam pulley .

 

[makeitfit]

Best question I could ask is what do you want your engine to do. What I mean is are you looking for max power or reliability or both because there has to be a compromise its no good making 300 hp for 30 sec and it going bang.

OK best guess is about 200 bhp using my modded turbo ( plus LPG on top :naughty )
The cam figures I have off a mate in Italy who has 240 bhp but using VGT turbo and this cam profile.
I'll be using manual pump on the TDi block .
Engine is good for 300 bhp on stock bottom I'm told :augie

 

[macabethiel]

Use with care - I didn't in 1981 !!

You can buy a flexi hone cheap as chips from the likes of machine mart, just a spring loaded three legged thingy with honing stones on it, goes into electric drill, but use with care, Rick

Back in 1981 I had a slave 998cc Cooper engine in my 1275 S whilst I did a much needed engine re-build due to excessive oil consumption. Funds were tight so as it was the EN40B Nitride hardened crank the bottom end just need new shells for mains and crank journals. New 5 lobe oil pump etc, etc.

Fitted a new BLMC special tuning camshaft a 649 I think it was that I had bought when I was a student in 1970 from a Brummie (I suspect it was an over the wall night shift bargain buy). The pistons were standard size but flat topped Hepolite ones so I put some new rings on them as I could not afford a re-bore as well.

Then my mate comes round and says I need to glaze break the cylinders to bed in the new rings and lent me his tool. It was a three legged spring loaded tool with grinding blocks mounted on each leg. You sort of closed it up and popped it in your cylinder bore. Then attached to my Black & Decker Electric Drill and gave it a go on each cylinder. It looked brilliant and the slight lip at the top was gone.

Fast forward about 3 days later and the engine was back in with everything connected up. Cranked her over and she would not start. It was late at night so next morning checked everything, valve timing, ignition, points the lot. No joy so rang my Dad he came over we removed a spark plug and they were wet. Dried out tried again - no joy. Following day he gave me a tow start and she fired up a treat took her for a spin and she was running like a dream coming on cam at 3500 rpm.

Put her back in the garage for the night. Next day no start again so straight to the tow start and she ran ok. Switched off and when I tried to re-start her she almost flattened the battery. Did a compression check and the best cylinder was 75-80 p.s.i. Engine out sent block for a re-bore had to go to plus 40 thou to get out the damage I had done with the bore glaze breaker tool. Lesson learnt the hard way.

 

[macabethiel]

Along with £500 of piston porn .





342hp sat on the kitchen floor...

Nice looking engine !
In the kitchen !
Reminded me of the day I had my flywheel ring gear in the gas oven and the flywheel in the freezer so I could put on the new ring gear.
Those were the old days with no pre-engaged starter motor.lol

 

[luke1987]

Back in 1981 I had a slave 998cc Cooper engine in my 1275 S whilst I did a much needed engine re-build due to excessive oil consumption. Funds were tight so as it was the EN40B Nitride hardened crank the bottom end just need new shells for mains and crank journals. New 5 lobe oil pump etc, etc.

Fitted a new BLMC special tuning camshaft a 649 I think it was that I had bought when I was a student in 1970 from a Brummie (I suspect it was an over the wall night shift bargain buy). The pistons were standard size but flat topped Hepolite ones so I put some new rings on them as I could not afford a re-bore as well.

Then my mate comes round and says I need to glaze break the cylinders to bed in the new rings and lent me his tool. It was a three legged spring loaded tool with grinding blocks mounted on each leg. You sort of closed it up and popped it in your cylinder bore. Then attached to my Black & Decker Electric Drill and gave it a go on each cylinder. It looked brilliant and the slight lip at the top was gone.

Fast forward about 3 days later and the engine was back in with everything connected up. Cranked her over and she would not start. It was late at night so next morning checked everything, valve timing, ignition, points the lot. No joy so rang my Dad he came over we removed a spark plug and they were wet. Dried out tried again - no joy. Following day he gave me a tow start and she fired up a treat took her for a spin and she was running like a dream coming on cam at 3500 rpm.

Put her back in the garage for the night. Next day no start again so straight to the tow start and she ran ok. Switched off and when I tried to re-start her she almost flattened the battery. Did a compression check and the best cylinder was 75-80 p.s.i. Engine out sent block for a re-bore had to go to plus 40 thou to get out the damage I had done with the bore glaze breaker tool. Lesson learnt the hard way.

You must have been honing all night to remove the lip at the top of the bore bet your arms were killing the day after . We dont use glaze breakers we use these from america



Get a much nicer finish and a hell of a lot quicker.

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

What engine is that luke?

 

[luke1987]

That started life in a Citroen xm. Its a 2.0 xu10 from the Peugeot/Citroen family.

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

That started life in a Citroen xm. Its a 2.0 xu10 from the Peugeot/Citroen family.

I just bought a van with 2.0hdi in it, bloody thing flies

 

[solarman216]

You must have been honing all night to remove the lip at the top of the bore bet your arms were killing the day after . We dont use glaze breakers we use these from america.

The point is here that once the pads ride up on the ring lip the bottom of the pad stone digs in and does the bores no good at all, to use as a glaze buster no more than one minute at 800 rpm working per bore, the thing to remember is that it is not just the spring force that is imparted to the bore but centrifugal force also comes into play, it is easy to take the bores out of spec with these bits of kit, they need very careful application, Rick

 

[Banshee]

Interesting thread guys, didn't even know what honing was until I read this.

:bow

 

[makeitfit]

Don't panic , I'm getting it professionally honed . It's actually cheaper than buying the kit and risking the outcome :augie
So more pics chaps :naughty
Now see that socket in there , it's meant to be there as I needed to get that massive 41mm crank nut orff :lol
Luckily for me, my son had recently bought a 1" drive socket set and breaker bar :bow

Here you see the reason these engines are so reliable, look at these gears :sly

Timing marks all seem straight forward

Here's the cam gear about to come off

and the cam is out . It's going to be re-profiled see innit :naughty
Don't worry Rick, I'll not try it with my angle grinder :lol

Pistons out now . Machining in here is gorgeous :clap

I have no history with this engine and wonder what you think of my shells ?

Although I've marked stuff, Nissan have already done the job pefectly. Matching numbers on every part, brilliant

I like piston porn :lamer:

Going to strip the head tomorrow then the block goes to be honed and the head gets a skim.
Onwards

 

[solarman216]

Shells are worn but no grit so just replace them and good for another 100k plus Rick

 

[Banshee]

Absolute beast engines!!!!!

2.7 OIL BURNERS FOR LIFE

 

[makeitfit]

Shells are worn but no grit so just replace them and good for another 100k plus Rick

Cheers Rick :thumbs

 

[makeitfit]

Is the oil pump worth taking out and if so what's the check method ?

 

[solarman216]

Interesting the 4 pips on cam drive gear, I only expected one, Rick

 

[solarman216]

Is the oil pump worth taking out and if so what's the check method ?

As the oil has been kept clean throughout its life I would not expect any problems with the oil pump but as it is before the filter it would be worth pulling it apart just as a check, the only thing that could be bad is the pressure relief plunger, check it for bore wear and seat damage, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

Heads up
Marked up the valves ready for strip down .

Valve spring compressor time

Clamp it, tap it and chase the collett :lol

EEUUWWW there be dragons down there

That'll get a pre-emptive skim just to be sure :thumbs

More gloop

So before it goes for a skim I need to de-gunk that gloop. Has anyone got any good tips for this job ? I've heard that oven cleaner is a goer :augie

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

I don't know what would be good to use, gunk?, but please keep the pics coming mate, they are fascinating. Brake cleaner?, acetone?, hey try a jet wash after a soak in summat :thumb2, what do the part cleaning machines have in them?

 

[makeitfit]

what do the part cleaning machines have in them?

Hot paraffin I think :nenau
I'll probably go hot petrol :naughty:lol