Engine rebuild and power mods

[Banshee]

Cup my diff you slut

:doh Family site

:lol :lol :lol

But that was hilarious

 

[makeitfit]

LPG back on today, wheel spinning 1st and 2nd , still low on boost but blimey it shifts

 

[Banshee]

LPG back on today, wheel spinning 1st and 2nd , still low on boost but blimey it shifts

You reckon I could mod the LPG off my 2.4 petrol onto my 2.7 uncle Pete :augie :nenau

 

[makeitfit]

You reckon I could mod the LPG off my 2.4 petrol onto my 2.7 uncle Pete :augie :nenau

Tank and evaporator yes. What date is the tank though ?
Depends where the tank was located too, as to whether you can re-use the filler.
Most defo new feed from tank to bulkhead. Then you'll need to decide where to fumigate the intake .

 

[Banshee]

Tank and evaporator yes. What date is the tank though ?
Depends where the tank was located too, as to whether you can re-use the filler.
Most defo new feed from tank to bulkhead. Then you'll need to decide where to fumigate the intake .

I'll decide the fate of the Maverick I've just brought with it fitted and be back in touch if I decide it's a hairbrain enough scheme to waste some money on :lol

 

[makeitfit]

Update

I bring you bad tidings from BP HQ
It was all going so well till last night. Some more enthusiastic testing may have happened :lol we were on 1.5 bar, running LPG and the Black Pearl was awesome, and then.............it got a bit hot :doh
That's 3/4 gauge hot anyway. More than I usually see. Stopped and had a butchers. The header tank was peculating nicely
Let it cool a bit and limped back. Temp dropped pretty quick . Water top up was one hot kettle worth.
EGT never over 700 which is fine.
My first hope was an air lock or weak rad cap.
Tried again tonight from cold. Rad off and straight away I could see turbulance and overspill. I'd filled with the heater on hot by the way.
Let the engine run for several minutes to warm up. It eventually started to fill the header tank. There I could see bubbles too
After half an hour temp gauge at a quarter, and header tank stabalised at about 3/4 up. Went for a drive again to get things hot but nowhere near half on the gauge. Engine running sweet, heat in the cab was fine.
Pulled up and popped the bonnet again. Still bubbles in the header but not overflowing. I cant see any leaks or smell anything bad from zorst or rocker .
I suspect head gasket but always optomistic it could be something stupid ?
Probably done 40 miles so far
Does the sniff test work on diesels ?
Help please learned ones :bow

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Mine seemed to be using water, and I looked high and lo, but no sign of a leak, just he header kept filling up, and then over flowing...

Every time it was cool, and I took the cap off, it was low on water, and needed about 1/2 a pint to top it up...

I had convinced myself the head gasket was gone, but the car seemed fine in all other ways.

A couple of weeks back, I got a radiator pressure tester cheap on Ebay, and when I pumped up the Radiator, I was loosing pressure quite quickly. It turned out, water was leaking out where the bottom hose joins onto the water pump, and a quick tighten of the clamp, and all was fixed...

So it might be worth doing a pressure test first...

 

[solarman216]

Yes sniff test works on diesels, I have lost track, have you just rebuilt this engine or was it another one, too many scotches to go hunting now, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

Yes sniff test works on diesels, I have lost track, have you just rebuilt this engine or was it another one, too many scotches to go hunting now, Rick

Yes, this is the complete rebuild , modified engine.
I was meticulous on all things rebuild, following the manual instructions and torque settings.
I bought a complete engine gasket set and wonder if the supplied HG was a slice of chinese cheese

 

[solarman216]

Yes, this is the complete rebuild , modified engine.
I was meticulous on all things rebuild, following the manual instructions and torque settings.
I bought a complete engine gasket set and wonder if the supplied HG was a slice of chinese cheese

Hmm not good, but sniff test will prove it one way or the other, the only other thing is a dreaded crack some place but I hope not, Rick

 

[luke1987]

Pete did you skim the head? I cant remember?

 

[makeitfit]

Pete did you skim the head? I cant remember?

Yep head was skimmed.

 

[Banshee]

 

[elty001]

Oh no!!
After all that effort:doh
Fingers crossed mine will be back in action at the weekend:thumb2

 

[makeitfit]

HG update

The new Victor Reinz head gasket has arrived at last from that there Johnny Foriegner land
Started the head removal tonight but I'm desperate to understand the ins and outs of cam timing while I'm at it.
Luke is very busy but gave me a summary of my modified cam. It's essentially a fast road cam and will operate in standard Nissan timing position, BUT , there is more power available by correctly adjusting the cam timing . This I can do by cutting a new key way in the cog but again I'm not understanding how much I should be advancing this timing by ?
This is what Luke has said :
"Right after much deliberation we have worked out that the profile you have is a fast road profile, Now fast road profiles are designed to work on standard timing but with it being a diesel ideally it should be dialled in. The only way to do it properly is to remove the key way from the camshaft sprocket so it becomes free floating set the timing properly using a dial gauge and then drill and pin the spocket and the cam which would set it all up correctly."
So my question is as follows :
With the key out and TDC achieved by dial gauge where do I rotate the cam to ?

 

[solarman216]

The new Victor Reinz head gasket has arrived at last from that there Johnny Foriegner land
Started the head removal tonight but I'm desperate to understand the ins and outs of cam timing while I'm at it.
Luke is very busy but gave me a summary of my modified cam. It's essentially a fast road cam and will operate in standard Nissan timing position, BUT , there is more power available by correctly adjusting the cam timing . This I can do by cutting a new key way in the cog but again I'm not understanding how much I should be advancing this timing by ?
This is what Luke has said :
"Right after much deliberation we have worked out that the profile you have is a fast road profile, Now fast road profiles are designed to work on standard timing but with it being a diesel ideally it should be dialled in. The only way to do it properly is to remove the key way from the camshaft sprocket so it becomes free floating set the timing properly using a dial gauge and then drill and pin the spocket and the cam which would set it all up correctly."
So my question is as follows :
With the key out and TDC achieved by dial gauge where do I rotate the cam to ?

Sadly he has not said or given the numbers that the cam should be set at, so with lack of modified numbers you are best leaving the key in as standard, I think the amount to be gained by adjusting the key will be small anyway and without the correct numbers risk of piston colliding with valve is to big a risk, Rick

 

[luke1987]

Pete, Sorry I have been meaning to send you a message regarding this. Right you have all the data for dialling in your cam, the figure we need is the maximum valve lift and where it occurs. In your case its a 9mm lift at 109 degrees after TDC. So to get your cam spot on first we need to find your engines true TDC using a dial gauge and a cam timing disc attached to the front pulley with a makeshift pointer.



So it looks like this. Now to find true TDC we need to set the piston on no1 cylinder to the top of its stroke or using the front pulley set it to tdc using the original tdc mark. Now if you look as the piston reaches the top of the bore there will be a slight point where it doesnt move before going back down this is called the dwell now we need to find the start and end point of the dwell and half that measurement which gives us true tdc. Then we set the pointer on the timing disc to 0. So using the full lift method to set up the cam we need to turn the crank to 109 degrees after tdc indicated on the timing disc.

Next Cam timing

So with the bottom end set up to true tdc we can move on to setting the cam. First we need to remove the cam sprocket and with the dial gauge on no1 inlet lobe we again need to find the highest point on the cam so again set the gauge to 0 on the highest point of the nose of the cam and rotate the cam forwards until it starts to move and the back until it starts to move we also have a dwell point here which again the centre of gives us our full lift. Now this is the hard part the original timing marks on the cam sprocket will no longer line up so its going to be a matter of either making the sproket adjustable on the cam or drilling and pinning it in the right location. You can buy offset woodruff keys that adjust the sprocket but you would first have to set the cam up and then measure the slot. But essentially thats it the timing then is spot on you may get lucky and be able to just slide the sprocket back on and create your own marks. Hope this helps.

 

[solarman216]

The last Para starts with "so with the bottom end set up to true tdc" I think this should read 109 Deg ATDC, good luck Pete, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

Thanks Luke, I'd pretty much got that after reading the Burton cam tuning guide about 10 times lol
Now I have the gist of it I think. I'll have to print off a timing wheel from somewhere :augie
I got the head off tonight and wow this whole HG failure is a blessing in disguise. I've had my valves kissing the piston crowns. Just enough to see their shadow but that's 1.5mm too close :lol
Details tomorrow when I get a chance to put pics up etc:thumbs

 

[makeitfit]

The last Para starts with "so with the bottom end set up to true tdc" I think this should read 109 Deg ATDC, good luck Pete, Rick

Thanks Rick, I think you are correct :thumbs