Engine Management Light

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gerry2004uk

Active member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
26
hi folks,

I have a 1998 2.7 Diesel terrano 2 which i have been running on a WVO-biodiesel/straight diesel mix for about 700 miles without a problem.

I had recently serviced it prior to this and it has been running great.A couple of days ago i noticed when i started it up the oil light took an extra couple of seconds to go out on the instrument panel.But it hasnt been using oil or leaking.No smoking or power issues etc.

Last night the yellow engine management light come on and now the engine lacks power and wont rev(i havent been trying as the engine doesnt like it).

I am aware that the fuel filter is prome to clogging on bio and it did feel like the engine was being starved of fuel so i have changed the fuel filter and the oil filter and oil as a precaution.To no real difference.

Do I need to reset the engine management light somehow to enable to lose the original fault.
I was looking forward to getting the truck loaded up this weekend for a camping trip but i guess we will be in the wifes C-max instead :doh
 
you can try first my disconecting the battry for a few hours....

you can also READ the error codes ( not sure how but do a search...)

terransurus will know more im sure
 
What was the old fuel filter like? cut it open to check, cos if it was pretty bunged up then good chance the small filter on the pump will still be the same and as it is bout third the size of a thimble wont take much to clog it, Rick
 
thanks guys,

the last thing i want to do was search for the little filter, i have seen the tutorial ! but i realise it is a possible option.but would that necessarily set the mil light off ?

I am considering all angles at the moment,would the maf set the mil off for example ?

I will have an other trawl through the forums for ideas,cheers !
 
If you check the old filter it will tell you if you have to look at the little one, Rick
 
the last thing i want to do was search for the little filter, i have seen the tutorial


i remember seeing there was a "FAST" way to do it..

I cant remember who or where it was BUT it is here some place!
 
you need to read the codes mate as per the tutorial, that will tell you why the MIL light is lit up. get that read asap and let us know. Could well be the MAF, and perhaps a little clean will sort you out for the weekend!
 
Ok,i have found the right tutorial now and i will give the bridging procedure a try tomorrow.I missed it when i scanned the list the first time.

Thanks guys,that list of faults looks pretty comprehensive and should sort it out hopefully.

You are all worth your weight in gold
:thumbs
 
mmmm sounds like the only time my weight is helpfull then...

but wonder how much i AM worth in gold... any one know the price of gold at the mo??
 
Morning,

I have bridged the connector this morning and it coming up with message 34 the injector needle lift sensor-incorrect signal or possibly wiring,air in fuel.

The sensor would be easily discounted if i went for a replacement.ie,if i change that and it doesnt work it must be wiring or air to the fuel;which will be the hardest 2 faults to detect.

I am concerned that the acidic nature of the bio may have created a pin hole in the fuel line and be hard to find.How unlikely this is I am not sure.Having only run the truck on bio for 700 miles ,doesnt sound like a long time to me.

Wiring,well its feasable,but unlikely i would have thought.

so the question is ?! Has anyone replaced a needle lift sensor recently or aware of the magnitude of the job ?

Thanks.
 
I have had a look through the forums found some info......150 -200 for the sensor:doh

I will get one on order,symtoms sound exactly what i had.Engine starts no problem,idles well.but in limp mode.

thanks for the help.

any links to diagrams would be great tho.ta
 
Needle lift sensor means changing the injector, someone did it recently , near £200 I think, air in the fuel? same symtoms as blocked fuel line, !!!, bio unlikely to affect fuel lines but the sealing rubbers is a different matter, Rick
 
a few of us have done them, me included. i did a write up on how to do the job, but most people seem more than capable! made a HUGE difference to my car at the time.
 
Hi folks,

I have now changed the Number 1 injector with the sensor on it using a socket with the hole in and a power bar to get enough leverage.I had the bosch type fitted to mine and it isnt to bad a job to be honest.

Getting access to the injector is a nut and bolt operation,removing the intercooler( which is shown in a tutorial) and repositioning a couple or pipes and connectors.The only thing i would recommend is to buy the diesel return pipes and replace these at the same time.Due to the heat in this area they become hard and britle and will snap off when you try and remove the little fiddly clips.I bought a lenght for £5 from motor parts and cut to the desired size.Long nose pliers are handy to work the clips.

I cranked the engine over and bled the injector as well.Re-assemble in reverse order and cross your fingers !!!

The Mil light stayed on and my heart sank.but i had forgotten to reset the ecu.I did this with the bridging paperclip,switched the ignition off and restarted.Light now off.Job's a goodun,so far anyway.

I am curious if the bio had anything to do with this.I wouldnt want to be forking out on one of these injectors very often thats for sure.Pic's to follow
 
top job there mate.

id say that the original injector was probably already on its way out-was it brown and gunky on the end? perhaps the bio deisel mix just aggravated it a bit more ina similar way to clogging up the filter?!

still, you sorted it, I had to do a similar job myself a while back, I wonder if that was my tutorial you saw, if so, any good?!
 
where is it, in the download section?

no idea...maybe i posted it to him i dunno....! id like it in the download section if you think it would be useful?

no-just checked, i posted it to JimmyJaffa.
 

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