Difflock

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D

Deleted Member D

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 14, 2007
Messages
1,296
Is my difflock Kapput ?
Whilst trying to free myself from a snow drift yesterday with the use of my difflock and four wheel drive low and several winching techniques there was a distinct smell of clutch type smells.
On the return journey and on tarmac each time I made a turn either left or right the rear tyres could be heard and felt spinning asthough in four wheel drive.
The difflock switch was in off position and I wasnt in four wheel drive.
I havent checked it today as yet but I dont think there will be any change.
Anyone ?????????
 
Did you reverse back 10-12 foot or so to disengage the 4x4 and diff lock?
 
Reverse

poppypiesdad said:
Did you reverse back 10-12 foot or so to disengage the 4x4 and diff lock?
Click to expand...
I was pulled out backwards. But I had the auto hub in lock pos anyway so you dont need to keep reversing to disengage, and you dont need to reverse when youve disengaged the difflock.
Im wondering if Ive damged the innards when the wheels kept turning without me actually moving.
There was that horrid clutch burning smell too.
Surely the vehicle wouldnt reach high speeds with diff engaged any rode up ?
Could do with a difflock professor to enlighten me really.
 
isnt the patrol full time, in which case the difflock is on or off.

no reverse needed, as not auto like a t2 (well some ofs) front hubs.

suggest its knacked, effectively a victim of windup as transmission
where one axle has tried to or ended up putting more load as in
prop turn/speed into diff when compared to other side. could be by
being dragged out if all wheels werent able to turn freely or together.

suspect you saying a clutch smell is how it works, as it not a pure
gear engagement as in my part time box, always wondered what a
centre diff did, or more precisely how. as realise typical modern
full timer are either off or on electrionically. though preproduction
rangeys had an lsd (clutch interface?).
 
Thomas-the-Terrano2 said:
isnt the patrol full time, in which case the difflock is on or off.

no reverse needed, as not auto like a t2 (well some ofs) front hubs.

suggest its knacked, effectively a victim of windup as transmission
where one axle has tried to or ended up putting more load as in
prop turn/speed into diff when compared to other side. could be by
being dragged out if all wheels werent able to turn freely or together.

suspect you saying a clutch smell is how it works, as it not a pure
gear engagement as in my part time box, always wondered what a
centre diff did, or more precisely how. as realise typical modern
full timer are either off or on electrionically. though preproduction
rangeys had an lsd (clutch interface?).
Click to expand...
Thought something like that myself. But would the prop still turn the rear drive wheels?
Its just a case of dis-engaging the difflock ? Would the difflock not allow me to drive at high speeds ?
Is there a remedy/cure ?
 
sorry dadba, have reread your first post, if difflock was off then
dont see why should have that effect. however do you have a rear
locker, as oposed to lsd, like an air locker or mechanical. maybe that
pooped.

from rangey days not surte still how centre diff works, presume like
an axle diff. know once was recovered by spec lift and mechanic
unbolted rear prop from diff, another time wheel skates were used
so suggests a centre diff isnt a free running as perhaps you might
expect... that said anyone know if a normal open axle diff can be
run 'on one wheel' freely as per spinning a wheel. TRS where are you?
 
Lock stuck in

It would appear that the difflock mechanism inside the axle diff is shtuk in the lock position.
Useful in slippy stuff but not so good on the tarmac.
Tested the vacuum mechanism in a garage workshop and found that it works perfect.
So the problem is within the axle its self.
Not so sure about solving that problem other than replacing the axle.
 
there was on MAv knew about , back axle . not sure if any one had it though. might be worth a PM to Mav.
 
dadba said:
It would appear that the difflock mechanism inside the axle diff is shtuk in the lock position.
Useful in slippy stuff but not so good on the tarmac.
Tested the vacuum mechanism in a garage workshop and found that it works perfect.
So the problem is within the axle its self.
Not so sure about solving that problem other than replacing the axle.
Click to expand...

How does this axle diff work then, cable, electrical, air?

certainly plenty of ARB as in brand kits out there, typically air operated
which I believe, though happy to be proved wrong means that only operates
whilst compressor running, o0r air pressure drops off maybe a fail safe in as
much as a dead motor is then free to roll, diff wise atleast.

Used to retail around £400 plus bit more for compressor which can be utilised
for inflating tyres too, obviously if added a further locker to front 'pumpkin'
would use same compressor.
 
Hi dadba

jack up and put axle stands under axle turn wheel buy hand to confirm lock diff lock on
Tap with hammer on the side of diff housing while some one turns wheel forwards and backwards
this may allow the diff to disengage. allso leave supply feed of the actuator
Have u looked at the workshop manual at all
 
Tapping diff

I did the tapping the diff thing this afternoon over a pit in a garage.
Doesnt seem to have worked.
eusa_think.gif

Surely there must be a way of disconnecting the locker even if its broke ?
eusa_doh.gif

Really hoping I dont have to purchase a new axle.
eusa_doh.gif
 
Looks like you will have to pull the half shafts out and remove the diff. ass. to do anything.
It’s a sliding coupler affair and doesn’t appear accessible from outside.
 
was told this should work may be the wheel rotation is the clue

or you need a bigger hammer :lol
 
One wheel drive

Is it possible to have one wheel drive ?
If it was, how would the vehicle perform ?
When cornering would the wheel try to spin if turned to the direction of the drive wheel ?
In this case the right rear.
It was the left rear that was stuck in deep snow.
Cos Im now thinking that it cant be stuck in difflock because surely I wouldnt be able to reach a normal speed on the road ?
So Im thinking perhaps Ive lost drive from my left rear wheel now.
Spoke to a LGV mechanic last night and he said the difflock should disengage despite being broken.
He said perhaps be best to check diff oil and refill. What oil is in diff on a trol ?
Im trying to find out as much as pos b4 I approach a repair job.
 
Dadbs TRZRS does similar 2 tubes but sucks on 1 tube and blows on the other pm him to see if any left if not borrow mine.:thumbs
 
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