Diff oil again

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melissachels

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
1,216
i know it comes up alot on here but can't seem to find a difinitive answer anyho,

went to dingro 2day & got comma 80/90 gl5 mineral for the front diff & got comma ls80/90 gl5 for the rear diff. are these the right ones before i put them in? :nenau

that is if i can get the filler & drain plugs off :doh had a go at the rear filler 2day & it wasn't for budging :( any tips??
 
LSD "NOT THE DRUG"for the rear and LS for the front, just ba tip check you can remove the filler plug first, befor you attempt to remove the drain plug, otherwise you wont be able to refil, refil till it starts to come out of the filler plug on level ground, if you have not got square drain plug sockets you might get away with using a 1/2" socket drive bar. Also sprayed the plug with some shock and unlock stuff, or any thing that might relaese the rust first,
 
Yes Mel you got the right oils, to get the plugs out either use a long knuckle bar, or apply a little heat around the plug first, or better still do it after a run that is long enough to get the diff hot, but this will not apply to the front one, Rick
 
LSD "NOT THE DRUG"for the rear and LS for the front, just ba tip check you can remove the filler plug first, befor you attempt to remove the drain plug, otherwise you wont be able to refil, refil till it starts to come out of the filler plug on level ground, if you have not got square drain plug sockets you might get away with using a 1/2" socket drive bar. Also sprayed the plug with some shock and unlock stuff, or any thing that might relaese the rust first,

yeah oil seems correct, we tried with a 1/2" racket but no working, what the heck is shock & unlock?? never heard of it, its been sprayed several times with wd40, but no working :( :mad:
 
yeah oil seems correct, we tried with a 1/2" racket but no working, what the heck is shock & unlock?? never heard of it, its been sprayed several times with wd40, but no working :( :mad:

shock and unlock is just another DIY man in a can, in this aplication useless, just think it through, if his stuff can get into the threads then your oil can leak out, no these plugs are BSP taper thread and get tight, brute force or heat, Rick
 
Yes Mel you got the right oils, to get the plugs out either use a long knuckle bar, or apply a little heat around the plug first, or better still do it after a run that is long enough to get the diff hot, but this will not apply to the front one, Rick

had a long knuckle bar on it & my man was swing for it, it was cold by that point tho so maybe try monday as got 3 kids 2moro, & i can't find my wee plumber butane burner :doh
 
Another method I have used is a tee bar (not a ratchet) and put a bottle jack under it only works if the bar is near horizontal when in the plug, Rick
 
Another method I have used is a tee bar (not a ratchet) and put a bottle jack under it only works if the bar is near horizontal when in the plug, Rick

we'll give that a try, as the plug aits straight & i doubt its ever been out to be honest. i defo bought someone elses mess & for way too much but hey ho i love it :thumb2
 
Hmmm, I think I'll do my diff oils too, last time they were changed was about 2 years ago.
 
Rear lsd think it bout 40k miles if heavy towing think its 20k miles not 100%

The front diff on the Auto Hub version rarely do any great mileage.
Maybe if doing a lot of deep water, there may be a good reason to change it.
Or if the vehicle has unknown history, always a good thing to change it.

When you change the rear diff oil, it goes in golden yellow, comes out sludgy thick and grey.
This is contaminated with the friction material of the limited slip diff plates, and is normal. phewwww:confused:


My theory is...
keep the rear tyres the same in both type and tread depth, and the diff won't be working that hard when driving in a straight line, so the clutches won't wear as quickly, so oil stays cleaner.

best regards,
Rustic
 
To loosen seriously stuck taper plugs, spray several times for days before with something better than WD40 eg: plus gas.
Start with the item hot if possible, then tap frequently whilst trying to turn in alternate directions after that it's down to brute force: in the right direction! LOL.
Don't make the mistake of doing them back up too tightly! Taper plugs will seal with barely more than nipped-up force & they shouldn't require any gunk on the threads.
 
Don't make the mistake of doing them back up too tightly! Taper plugs will seal with barely more than nipped-up force & they shouldn't require any gunk on the threads.

I use calor tite which is like red hematite.
It always remains tacky, it serves 2 purposes, stops any oil getting out, but also any moisture getting into the threads which causes corrosion.
I use it on ALL my drain and filler plugs, inc engine oil drain, nothing ever leaks, it is easy to undo them, minimal force required. Clean up with meths.

Doing it now on this Mav for nearly 18 years... works for me :thumb2

best regards, Rustic
 
I had better put that on the to-do list then :lol. No idea when they was changed.
 

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