Correct timing advance on 2005 Terrano 2 2.7TDI?

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OK, if MAF sensor is damaged, should I not get P0100 fault - An excessively high or low voltage from the sensor is entered to ECM?
 
OK, if MAF sensor is damaged, should I not get P0100 fault - An excessively high or low voltage from the sensor is entered to ECM?

If it's out of range enough then yes. However I've read loads of problem threads on this site that have been solved with a new MAF and annoyingly they weren't showing any fault codes :nenau
I logically thought that if there is no difference when the MAF is unplugged then it must be at fault already ? If I unplug mine it'll run like a bag of spanners :eek:
 
If it's out of range enough then yes. However I've read loads of problem threads on this site that have been solved with a new MAF and annoyingly they weren't showing any fault codes :nenau
I logically thought that if there is no difference when the MAF is unplugged then it must be at fault already ? If I unplug mine it'll run like a bag of spanners :eek:

Yes, that makes a sense. Will try to replace it and check.
In theory that explains the problem with smoke. But what about timing? Is air flow related to timing advance?
 
On my last T2 I lost loads of power over a couple of weeks & checked the MAF as mentioned in the D/L's & got almost normal readings but in the end I bought a new one as it would never come in wrong:augie anyway fitted it in the dealers carpark & pulled away like I had normally did but this time I the truck was wheel spinning like mad:eek: the truck had never been as fast:lol
The MAF tells the ECU how much fuel the pump needs to put to the injectors so if your MAF is dead then the I/P isn't going to be putting out the fuel thats needed
 
think you are trying to run before you can walk, if unplugging the MAF makes no difference then replace the MAF, then see what the situation is, you can pee with the IP for as long as you like, if the MAF is out then you will get no place, Rick
 
If I unplug my MAF it makes no difference when stood still, Nowt wrong with it, it's a good un. Try and set off and nothing happens.
 
I have both petrol and TDi motors, if I unplug the MAF they will not rev without missing and spluttering, Rick
 
2 other suggestions I got:
1. Crankshaft bushings? If they move or break, that can make noise, but what about smoke?
2. Actuator. Pump is from 2000, and considering that someone has removed filter from the banjo bolt, actuator can be full of crap and stick or something.
Your thoughts?
 
Update.

My pal brought computer which can read lots of live data, including timing advance.
Our findings:
1. ECU automatically adjusts CORRECT timing irrelevant to IP position on engine block. On hot engine idle timing is around 2.5 degrees, with high revs may reach 8-10. So, no need for Timing adjustment tool.
2. MAF sensor works OK, calculates air flow 20-100 g/sec.
3. Apparently all sensors (crankshaft, needle) work OK as they provide enough correct data to adjust real timing based on IP position.
4. I will have this computer over weekend, so may play with it.

Knocks clearly come for the top of the engine, so it's not crankshaft bushings. Looks like it comes from one cylinder.

As timing advance is correct and ECU controls it, we thought that injection may be affected by pump or injectors - everything else works OK.
We figured out 2 possible reasons:
1. Insufficient pumping pressure
2. Something wrong with injector
Either too low pressure does not allow needle to open at right time, and when pressure is applied 2nd time, needle starts spraying for too long, or too high needle opening pressure does the same.

Any ideas what can be wrong to pump or injector hardware which leads to incorrect injection?
 
Hmmm, given that your compression test was ok we can rule out piston/valave. You've also done valve clearance. Timing/ecu = ok.
Injectors can lead to puffs of smoke and irregular running, so maybe your injector refurb people have dropped a bollock and NOT actually done a good job :nenau
I've had injectors go in the past but didn't get the knocking you have.
The only time I've had knocking was when I over fueled my LPG . Maybe therefore we could guess at an injector supplying too much fuel !
Have a word with the guys that did the injectors :question
 
Pete injectors cannot over fuel, the Pump meters the fuel amount, the injectors simply atomise this to a combustible level, the finer the better, so if you have an injector squirting like a hose then non burnt fuel from the last compression ignites prior to proper injection time so causing loud knock, Rick
 
That's sort of what I meant, as in the injectors are buggered and pooring in fuel as you say. Just got the same "Diesel knock" when I had my lpg turned up too high :naughty Fast as shit off a shovel but I guess so was the shortening of engine life :eek: so I turned it down :confused: See I can be sensible ..............................ish :naughty
 
Update.

Was trying to figure our which injector may be squirting. Was disconnecting Hight Pressure fuel lines from each injector, one by one.
NONE!! Same knocks and white smoke!
So, it's not fuel injection system...

Next thing I'm checking is connecting rod bearings. Will need to remove front wheels drive system to get oil sump down and check for filings...
Fed up, really...
 
think you are trying to run before you can walk, if unplugging the MAF makes no difference then replace the MAF, then see what the situation is, you can pee with the IP for as long as you like, if the MAF is out then you will get no place, Rick

I checked MAF with computer, it works OK
 

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