Consult has arrived!

[clivvy]

Also can anybody tell me if their pump hisses when ignition turned on as mine does this and to me dont know if this is right or not?
Cheers Rich..

mine does, Rich, its like an electrical hissing sound, i think thats the pump turning? Mine's always done it, and mine runs sweet (ish). so i THINK its right.

 

[geoffdown]

mine does, Rich, its like an electrical hissing sound, i think thats the pump turning? Mine's always done it, and mine runs sweet (ish). so i THINK its right.

Its not the pump turning its the advance soliond the ecu is making sure it works . It advances or rewards the pump by pulseing the valve which alters the pressure in the pump which allows the pump to advance or retard :thumbs

 

[richtheracer]

Right that clears that up then, it's normal. Been out on it for four hours again today checked earths to start off and all fine took coolant bottle off and double checked underneath thats all good too, checked fuel lines again look fine too, even took inlet banjo off again to double check no mini filter and 100% there isn't one. Whilst that was undone got the mrs to press primer on fuel filter and it gushes through no problem at all. Fuel at pump but still none, not even a little trickle at injectors!! It just dont add up been through everything again even unblocked egr, as in took both blanking plates off!! Might have a crack with some wet start but not straight into turbo pipe would you? Just to try and get fuel moving. Or is this not advisable?
Rich..

 

[geoffdown]

Right that clears that up then, it's normal. Been out on it for four hours again today checked earths to start off and all fine took coolant bottle off and double checked underneath thats all good too, checked fuel lines again look fine too, even took inlet banjo off again to double check no mini filter and 100% there isn't one. Whilst that was undone got the mrs to press primer on fuel filter and it gushes through no problem at all. Fuel at pump but still none, not even a little trickle at injectors!! It just dont add up been through everything again even unblocked egr, as in took both blanking plates off!! Might have a crack with some wet start but not straight into turbo pipe would you? Just to try and get fuel moving. Or is this not advisable?
Rich..

Right get multi meter and measure voltage at the stop soloild be careful u only touch the centre post of the soliond when cracking should be 12v ish if not for now run a wire from battery with in line fuse bout 10-15a. Then it should fire fuel out of the investor pipes if not could be faulty soliond cheap try take out the soliond and remove plunger screw soliond back in and try to start car if it starts u found Ur problem and then u need to bend fuel pipe neareat to the pump to stop fuel to stop engine or better disconnect fuel line u will then need to bleed the system back up to start it again.

 

[richtheracer]

Hi geoff there is voltage at the solonoid if I have tested the right one, is it the one with rubber cap on it? Could it still be faulty? If i can remove the solonoid and take out plunger should I see fuel at injectors if this is faulty?
Cheers Rich

 

[rayf3262]

You may find this helpful:
http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/tdi-technik-eng.pdf
Although it's a VW doc. your IP is the same, as is the general system configuration.
Is explains the operation of the VP37 IP fairly well, along with an overall operation explanation.

 

[mjpetersen]

Could it be the fuel return pressure relief valve stuck open?? I have read that will cause hard starting, but did not read that it would cause no starting. It is an easy check though as you simply pinch almost totally the return hose and see if that helps. The relief regulates the fuel pressure in the pump case which feeds the injector pump more or less fuel.

I really do not think that it would totally keep it from starting, but I can see why it might.. Normally the symptoms would be the truck not wanting to rev with any power and hard starting.

The other thing that I have been thinking is the question of the NATS or immobilizer system. I have had occasions where I had to pull my key out and hold it away from the ignition switch for a few seconds and then insert it again. and then it starts right up.

Mike

 

[richtheracer]

Update, had her running for a few minutes this afternoon after removing the stop solonoid from pump!! But dont think this is problem as had to use some easy start to get her going but sounded great when revving but wouldnt idle as before. I cracked injector 4 and there was a brilliant fuel supply spraying everywhere, done it back up and noticed some fuel spraying around from injector 1 so let her cut out!! Wouldnt start again after that!! Starter was getting very warm and battery very flat even though i was jumping it off my van!! So pleased it went but now back to where I have been for the last 2 and half weeks!! :nenau
Cheers Rich..

 

[geoffdown]

Update, had her running for a few minutes this afternoon after removing the stop solonoid from pump!! But dont think this is problem as had to use some easy start to get her going but sounded great when revving but wouldnt idle as before. I cracked injector 4 and there was a brilliant fuel supply spraying everywhere, done it back up and noticed some fuel spraying around from injector 1 so let her cut out!! Wouldnt start again after that!! Starter was getting very warm and battery very flat even though i was jumping it off my van!! So pleased it went but now back to where I have been for the last 2 and half weeks!! :nenau
Cheers Rich..

Starting I think is down to the glow plugs have u checked the whole glow plug system

 

[richtheracer]

Have checked glowplug relay and rail but not the individual readings! What setting should multi meter be on to check this? And what readings should I expect to see??
Cheers Rich..

 

[clivvy]

cant help there with the readings, but the relay should click, im certain of that. For example, from cold, turn the key to ign, youll notice your glow plug light is on, the relay should then start to click, probably on/off/on/off, although i suppose with the weather being much warmer, maybe thats having some bearing on it due to the temp in the engine.

 

[richtheracer]

Finally had enough!! Put stop valve back in pump today and no power to it at all!! Have tested connector and no power, ran positive wire to it from battery and fine, so what could be causing the no power issue, also the normal hissing type noise with ignition in pump has been replaced by a constant buzzing type electrical noise, and to add to it all think I have burnt out my new bloody starter motor!!! Not a good day at all

 

[geoffdown]

Finally had enough!! Put stop valve back in pump today and no power to it at all!! Have tested connector and no power, ran positive wire to it from battery and fine, so what could be causing the no power issue, also the normal hissing type noise with ignition in pump has been replaced by a constant buzzing type electrical noise, and to add to it all think I have burnt out my new bloody starter motor!!! Not a good day at all

The nats thinks the car is being stolen so no power to that stop soliond:thumb2

 

[makeitfit]

The nats thinks the car is being stolen so no power to that stop soliond:thumb2

That's what I suggested way back in post 8 :doh
See I always said these bloody alarms and stuff are a pain :lol

 

[richtheracer]

Was deffinately power to it on friday when it ran and I removed stop solonoid, but had battery off friday and sat to put a good charge back into it. When I reinstalled battery yesterday I had drivers door and boot open, so would this have triggered the immobiliser? Cheers Rich..

 

[briggie]

i dont have a t2 anymore , but if i dont start my engine within a predetermined time ( about 20 seconds ) , or i dont turn the alarm /immobiliser off , the system will arm itself ..... i believe this is called passive arming ,

a lot of immobiliser/alarm systems are like this

taking the battery off or a flat battery also arms my immobilser...... just a thought , hope it helps

 

[clivvy]

Rich has been able to crank the car, but no start, so, am i understanding this right, the immobilser on these stops fuel via the stop solenoid, so this would result in an engine turning but not firing?

like with Briggie, my immobilsers work on passive, 20 second timeout. they allow you to turn the key, but NO cranking. I dont know an immobilser that allows the engine to crank, and Rich has said he was able to crank the engine, but no starting...so....this stop solenoid and nats, is this the likely issue? Did Rich change the immobiliser??

can the immobilser now be by passed? Mines a slightly older car, but i dont have NATs, can this be replicated on Richards car somehow?

i want to see this car fixed lol!!!

 

[makeitfit]

I've got nats on mine , one of the only things I've not bypassed. I think it's ecu related too. However it does allow engine cranking. My alfa is the same cranking but no fire or gauges etc.
So in this case I'd reset the nats and start again, hope that's it.:thumbs

 

[solarman216]

Not sure how the diesel version of NATS works but on my petrol if I use my spare key in which the chip is not working it unlocks the steering operates the starter and fires for 1 or 2 seconds then stops, I do not know if it shuts the fuel or stops the spark, it happens a bit quick to test, Rick

 

[solarman216]

I've got nats on mine , one of the only things I've not bypassed. I think it's ecu related too. However it does allow engine cranking,

if it is NATS 1 it can be bypassed, NATS 2 cannot, both go through the ecu, Rick