Codes of DOOM!

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I did one ages ago but can't remember what was involved, don't think its major as its just the barrel you need to change.

Its absolutely a standard NissMav failure, key doesn't always start it - clicking from under bonnet as if battery is flat or starter jammed....you can usually tell because if you turn the key VERY SLOWLY it works fine, its just cos the main area of the contacts has burnt out and the normal rapid turn of the key takes it past the shiny metal bit thats left, whereas turning it slowly gives the ignition time to make a circuit on that remaining shiny bit

Its cheap and easy as I recall, so my advice would be to do it - I bet a £1 the starter problems go away at the same time....!
 
OK OK I'll do it :doh NAG NAG NAG :confused:
BUT how the eck do I get the bugger off? IT'S got some sort of blind screws/bolts in it , no head etc:nenau
The key doesnt fall out but the slow turn to find a contact does sound like it:doh
 
OK OK I'll do it :doh NAG NAG NAG :confused:
BUT how the eck do I get the bugger off? IT'S got some sort of blind screws/bolts in it , no head etc:nenau
The key doesnt fall out but the slow turn to find a contact does sound like it:doh

hopefully someone on here has done it recently, i'll go check the Manuel...
 
as you said its the connectors on the end ducked not the barrel


it should come off, ill ask the kids in banwen to have a look they will hot wire it for you

why not change it for a button start
 
as you said its the connectors on the end ducked not the barrel


it should come off, ill ask the kids in banwen to have a look they will hot wire it for you

why not change it for a button start

you have to change the barrel to change the connectors you nitwit, its all one unit.....you can try repairing or bodging but look where thats got him...not worth fecking about with....
 
As others have said, you dont need to ferkle with the barrel, the switch unit is separate on the end.

£140 for the CPS, where on earth are you being quoted for that?!?!
 
Right then I've changed the bloody switch grrr:augie
Exactly the same :doh
So can we safely assume it aint the key/switch assy.:thumbs
Like I said the starter is goosed:eek:
The CPS was quoted as £140 from the local ford garage!
Can you suggest anywhere else to get it from?
Cheers :cool:
 
whats the prob with the starter again Pete?:confused:

Well it doesn't start the engine!:augie
Nice loud click when the solenoid throws (or tries) but no actual sarting:doh
So will liberating one off extreme on Friday:thumbs
 
Well it doesn't start the engine!:augie
Nice loud click when the solenoid throws (or tries) but no actual sarting:doh
So will liberating one off extreme on Friday:thumbs

So how do you know the ignition switch is kushtie now, since thats the exact symptom you get when its klukd....I assume you replaced the electrical terminals in full? Just trying to ensure elimination of the bleedin obvious...:kissy
 
pete, friday well put new starter on new battery leads and clean everything up. well get it starting like a new one. cos i recon its linked
oh and the drive shaft
 
Changed the complete switch part :thumbs

Continuity done at both ends of the car. On the CPS 1440 ohms cold, pluged it in and checked again at the ECU end 1447 ohms :augie seems ok to me:D
Checked on another CPS on my mates truck and got 1500 ohms hot:augie
So that's three diff. CPS at or about 1500 ohms.(Book says 900!):nenau

So where next guys?:confused:
 
Changed the complete switch part :thumbs

Continuity done at both ends of the car. On the CPS 1440 ohms cold, pluged it in and checked again at the ECU end 1447 ohms :augie seems ok to me:D
Checked on another CPS on my mates truck and got 1500 ohms hot:augie
So that's three diff. CPS at or about 1500 ohms.(Book says 900!):nenau

So where next guys?:confused:


friday well put new starter on new battery leads and clean everything up. well get it starting like a new one. cos i recon its linked
oh and the drive shaft
 

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