code 34. injector needle lift sensor

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zippy656

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2008
Messages
14,077
Well been out for the day MIL came on.

Download code sheet.


Um wgats it meqn and what do i need to do to fix it?
 
Well alls I knows is, someone had injector fault, bunged a whole bottle of injector cleaner with vey low fuel (myself included) and all was well. Think it was exosteve about a year back.

Halfords do a big cheap bottle :thumb2
 
Update

Engine cold now and light has gone out.

This normal for a buggered injector?
 
You bosch or zexel set up?
Could be a number of things, air in fuel, water in fuel, dodgy wiring or the injector itself.
 
I'm a Bosch boy.

Water not showing up light on filter.
Not checked for air or poor wires yet
 
Think I would change the fuel filter to be on the safe side and a bottle of injector cleaner, whilst I am not a believer some have said it works, and it cannot do any harm, if still a prob then check ohms reading on injector wires, should be around 100 ohms, if not I have a good injector, think Nissan want £400 :doh, Rick
 
Mine is 850, that to low rick?


How much you want for your one?
 
Mine is 850, that to low rick?...


If it should be 100 ohms, then 850 ohms is too high...

Are you testing it still connected, if so you could be reading the electronics, also try swapping over the leads on the multimeter, if there are semiconductors involved, you might get a different reading.
Also check which range your meter is on.
Hope it helps.
Rustic
 
I had a sudden amount of fuel laden smoke a while back and it pointed to an injector, my local garage said to try cleaner, which I did and it sorted it. My mil light came on a while after this had happened and I had a drop in power, I had not long changed the fuel filter, but put another new one on and it's been perfect since. Try the cheapest cures first. :thumb2
 
I always believe if you want a quick and FREE!! Test to check the fuel filter and housing just bypass it by using one of the hoses and loop back to the other metal pipe (as a temp test)
 
Did you check the ohms to the injector?
Banshee checked mine and it read zero.
I finally got round to changing the injector and all was well and the mil went off all by itself.
I've kept the old injector as I belive they can be refurbished for about 30 quid.
 
Put the two probes from your meter together and you should read zero ohms or maybe an ohm or two if your leads are not too good, then pull a blue relay from under the drivers dash, between pins 85 and 86 you should get around 74 ohms, if this is OK we have proven your meter if you still get much more than 100 to 110 ohms on your injector then it is duff, to get it out you need a deep 27 mm socket with a slit in it for the wire, it may be possible to use a disc cutter a make your own slot but the socket will be weakened by this but the good part is the recess in the head should stop the socket expanding too much, I use a ground down ring spanner that retains its strength as it is still fully circular, Rick
 
Put the two probes from your meter together and you should read zero ohms or maybe an ohm or two if your leads are not too good, then pull a blue relay from under the drivers dash, between pins 85 and 86 you should get around 74 ohms, if this is OK we have proven your meter if you still get much more than 100 to 110 ohms on your injector then it is duff, to get it out you need a deep 27 mm socket with a slit in it for the wire, it may be possible to use a disc cutter a make your own slot but the socket will be weakened by this but the good part is the recess in the head should stop the socket expanding too much, I use a ground down ring spanner that retains its strength as it is still fully circular, Rick

I remember you showing me this, very clever indeed :clap

What's the official trade tool for this? Expensive I bet? :naughty
 
Well had the injector changed, and anti roll bar ends change

Iz be happy boy again drives as well as ever again

Now just need to save up for not time
 

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