Chrysler 300 CRD playing up lack of decent runs !

Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum

Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

macabethiel

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2008
Messages
4,412
Well now I have pretty much retired the Chrysler is not getting the runs it used to as we mostly use the Jeep.

Came back from holiday last week and when I started up the Chrysler she spluttered and ran really lumpy. It seemed to clear after a minute or two but when I drove off the EML light came on followed by the ETC light (Electonic Throttle Control) and into limp mode 40 mph was about flat out!

Took her into ex-work place fearing that the throttle actuator motor had failed as it's pretty common on these Merc Engines but luckily it was a stored fault code from the EGR valve. Advised to do longer runs and I realised that for the last 3 months it's been used for joureys of less than 2 miles and was not getting warm.

Obviously I am going to try to make sure she gets up to temperature more often but wonder if I should be using a fuel treatment of some sort on a frequent basis.

Anyone had similar issues with their diesel vehicles ?
Removing the EGR valve is not really an option on this model.
 
Most modern diesels need a good run above 2500rpm to initiate a regeneration cycle of the DPF. David
 
TBH I would just make sure it got a nice long run once a week & once upto temp give it some stick to blow out the cobwebs & carbon build up:augie
 
Don't get me started on DPF...

Jags have to be doing at least 45mph as the exhaust has to heat up to 400/600 degrees to burn off the soot, this means a certain speed needs to be achieved to stop the car setting on fire...

On the jags if you have to brake for traffic or slow right down it will cut the cycle and you have to start again, also when the light goes out (on the jags) the DPF is not empty!!!! But jaguar deem it at an "acceptable level" when infact it is still over 1/3rd full. Although light has gone out you can continue the forced regeneration but if again you stop or slow it will cut the process and not continue until light comes on again :thumb2

Perhaps different on Chrysler :nenau but some insight to the info the techs at my work have with the official jag diagnostic tools :naughty
 
If a forced regen by the dealership has been done it is recommended that you change the oil, this is necessary because the system chucks more fuel in to raise the temperature and burn off the soot, this sometimes causes some fuel to pass into the oil at the same time :rolleyes:
 
Fuel in oil is a problem with some engines and it can cause the engine to run on it with the destruction of the engine. Only way to shut down is blocking the air intake. David.
 
EGR valve still causing problems.

The Chrysler is presently at my old work place being fixed as it is the old Merc 3 litre V6 engine - fault light kept on coming back on but cleared when key removed.

Likely they will fit a new EGR valve as its not worth the hassle of trying to clean it plus I want it to be reliable - its only done 16 k miles from new she had 9K on her when purchased 2 years ago so it's been a lifetime of short runs.

Luckily no problems yet with the DPF filter though it's always a worry. If I do get long term problems with my change of daily use she might have to go for a small petrol car but TBH I bought her with a view to 5 years of ownership. Now that they have stopped importing the Chrysler range she is likely to be a high depreciaton vehicle uness I drop on someone who wants the Estate version as a hearse.lol
 
Fuel additives will not help, the only thing you can do to avoid repetition of the problem is taking it up for a good run once in a while.

Diesel engines are not made for short runs - having lots of trouble with that in Belgium, where government sponsored diesel for years, causing lots of people to get diesel cars even though the only do <5000 miles/year.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top