Here's a quick DIY if this turns up in anyone's search later on.
Materials and Tools
- 10mm box wrench or line wrench (for brake fittings)
- 12mm ratchet or wrench
- 14mm ratchet
- 17mm ratchet and cheater bar
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1x bottle 'o brake fluid
- some rags
- tube of RTV
- 80W90
Ensure front wheels are blocked and parking brake is off. Raise rear of truck and support with jackstands. Pull off rear wheels.
Grab 12mm ratchet and remove four 12mm head bolts from the two E-brake brackets on either side of differential.
Use two of these and screw them into the threaded holes near the center of your brake drums. This will push the drums off the hubs without you having to fight anything. Pull both drums off.
Grab 17mm ratchet and remove the four 17mm nuts on the backside of each wheel hub/brake backing plate. Set on leaf springs so you don't lose them.
Unbend the little tabs that secure the brake lines to the axle housing so the line is free. Grab your 10mm line/box wrench and remove the driver's side brake line fitting from the Tee-fitting on the passenger side of the axle. It's bolted to the axle housing. Once the line is out of that fitting, remove the 12mm head bolt that secures the tee-fitting to the axle housing. Put rags under this to catch the brake fluid that is going to drip out.
Go back to the driver's side and pull the entire hub assembly/brake backing plate towards you until you feel the axle come out of the differential. Should be no more than about 3-4 inches and you will feel the diff end of the axle drop inside the tube. Lather, rinse repeat for the other side. No need to pull the axle all the way out if all you are doing is messing with the diff.
Pull the bottom diff plug out with your 1/2" breaker bar and let the fluid drain.
Remove the diff cover with your 14mm ratchet, should be eight bolts.
Grab your 17mm (thin wall, impact socket won't work) ratchet and cheater bar and break loose the four bolts holding the bearing caps on. Spin the bolts out and set them aside - two per cap. Now, either mark the caps to be sure they go back on the same side and the same orientation as they only go on one way, one side. Once the caps are marked (or eyeballed and remembered), knock them with a screwdriver handle and the should pop right out.
Grab the top of the ring gear and roll the diff assembly out. Mind the bearing cups and the shims as they will probably come with the diff and fall on the ground.
That's it. Installation is the reverse of this. Use a new gasket and some RTV to seal the cover on, let it cure 24 hours before adding fluid back to the diff. Bleed the brakes once the line is reconnected.
Too easy. No c-clips, spring clips, nothing crazy like that to deal with.
