bumper paint removal

[kitchenman]

:doh sorry I must have missed a bit:bow

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

:doh sorry I must have missed a bit:bow

you are forgiven, but don't let it happen again :augie :lol

 

[illy]

How about those scotchbright pads, They come with a velcro backing for orbital sanders, welders at Keymed use then to finish after the angle grinder.

scotchbright pads are great, use red on repaired areas before priming and gray on clear over base before painting, can use them dry but best used wet so there not so coarse. Thats not the stuff from Tesco

We only use a grinder on heavy work shaping metal and such. Use a DA (dual action) sander on paint work, DA also none as a orbital sander, you can get electric orbital sanders.

Yes as I said erlier 800 wet & dry

illy

 

[clivvy]

hmmm...so it seems an orbital sander is the way to go then? I dont have one, only a detail sander (Mouse) will that work? ill get an orbital if i have to but it will only be a cheap one and the correct grade sand paper. all i want to do is save myself the laboreous task of doing it "by hand".

the paint/wax is thick in places, looks brushed on. in parts its come off and you can see the faded grey bumper, thats what i want to get down to.

 

[briggie]

wouldnt it be a lot easier to just find a nice shiny one at the scrappers or anyone breaking one ? :nenau

 

[clivvy]

nope. cos then id have the problem of repairing any bolt holes and then fitting to mine, which leaves me at risk it not fitting properly! plus, it costs more money....or does it....hmmm

 

[lacroupade]

Ok both these Items will remove paint and are very good at it but will rip your bumper to f bits. I use them for striping paint off cars on a daily basis and wouldn't dream of using them on a bumper, If I did the painters would slap me. Even if I had to plastic weld a split bumper and repair with filler or stopper I wouldn't key it with them they are to violent as specially with an angle grinder.

Illy, hadn't realised you were in this business....I've got a set of BMW alloys that I'm going to refurb...Ithink they are painted not powder-coated but whats best to remove the existing paint, or am I better just to give them a good sanding to get a decent surface to use a rattle-can on? Its just looks like theres a bit of blistering going on there in a few places that might need taking down to what I'm expecting is a roughish casting.....

 

[illy]

Illy, hadn't realised you were in this business....I've got a set of BMW alloys that I'm going to refurb...Ithink they are painted not powder-coated but whats best to remove the existing paint, or am I better just to give them a good sanding to get a decent surface to use a rattle-can on? Its just looks like theres a bit of blistering going on there in a few places that might need taking down to what I'm expecting is a roughish casting.....

Right mate it depends on how bad your corrosion is, mine on my Mav was very bad so I had mine shot blasted and then powder coated a light colour in this case tan (caramak colour) why simply coz thats what he had in his gun. Then wet gray scotchbrite all over till dull, dry it, clean it, paint it.

Yours, rub corrosion down with 120 wet & dry, if its really bad use some 80 grit then go down to 120, when your satisfied that its smooth go over it and a slightly larger area with some 320 w & d, the reason for this is aerosol primers are quite thin and don't give high build. So we've got smooth metal and paint on the bad areas now gray scotch all over till dull, dry clean, then prim. When primer dry 800 w & d all over, dry, clean, paint.

Wet and dry, and scotch use them wet. Don't forget that some car paint depending on what it is may need clear lacquer on top. If they are really bad you could use nitromors, but thats a long dirty horrible job.

If you have any probs let me no and ill PM you my phone number

illy

 

[jims-terrano]

Clivvy, use some wet n dry to smooth it over. Then buy a couple of cans of Black Stone Guard. The Stone Guard will give a smooth egg shell type finish and is slightly rubberised. Next time you see my sills have a look at them because that's what I used.

Jim

 

[lacroupade]

Right mate it depends on how bad your corrosion is, mine on my Mav was very bad so I had mine shot blasted and then powder coated a light colour in this case tan (caramak colour) why simply coz thats what he had in his gun. Then wet gray scotchbrite all over till dull, dry it, clean it, paint it.

Yours, rub corrosion down with 120 wet & dry, if its really bad use some 80 grit then go down to 120, when your satisfied that its smooth go over it and a slightly larger area with some 320 w & d, the reason for this is aerosol primers are quite thin and don't give high build. So we've got smooth metal and paint on the bad areas now gray scotch all over till dull, dry clean, then prim. When primer dry 800 w & d all over, dry, clean, paint.

Wet and dry, and scotch use them wet. Don't forget that some car paint depending on what it is may need clear lacquer on top. If they are really bad you could use nitromors, but thats a long dirty horrible job.

If you have any probs let me no and ill PM you my phone number

illy

Thanks for that Illy......oddly enough I've got no visible corrosion but there seems to be some bubbling in a few places which I guess is the alloy starting to react underneath....I'll try and get some piccies but guess I need to break through one of them to see whats going on....

I might be coming round to getting them powder coated but at £50 a corner its a bit pricey.

isn't there a special primer that has a thicker coat than ordinary primer to cope with slightly rough castings...can't remember what its called though...

 

[solarman216]

sand blasting is the be all and end all, I got a sand blaster, takes "all" bad stuff away and leaves a good key for finish, the only problem it is messy, dust everywhere, Rick

 

[illy]

Thanks for that Illy......oddly enough I've got no visible corrosion but there seems to be some bubbling in a few places which I guess is the alloy starting to react underneath....I'll try and get some piccies but guess I need to break through one of them to see whats going on....

I might be coming round to getting them powder coated but at £50 a corner its a bit pricey.

isn't there a special primer that has a thicker coat than ordinary primer to cope with slightly rough castings...can't remember what its called though...

Under the bubbles will probably white powder corrosion, that obviously wants taking down good metal with feathered painted edges and scotch whats good.

As for primer I don't no what comes in cans as we use large quantities of high build primer in spray guns.

illy

 

[lacroupade]

Under the bubbles will probably white powder corrosion, that obviously wants taking down good metal with feathered painted edges and scotch whats good.

As for primer I don't no what comes in cans as we use large quantities of high build primer in spray guns.

illy

Thanks Illy....high build was the stuff I was trying to think of. Guess I'll poke one of these bubbles and see whats doing but might come down to having them blasted and powder coated instead....