Bump Stops

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Deleted Member S

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Jun 3, 2007
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Help I've had a bad day :cry: Are the bump stops on T2's nissan only parts as I looked at the front 1's & they fell off :roll: I've no nailed then together for the mo till I get some new ones. Am I right in thinking they are held on by 1 bolt for the fronts. I'll have to do the o/s/r 1 in a bit as I think that will do the same but the bolts on that look a pig (rusted)
 
do they come into mot mine didnt dogs got em in garden chewin em up!
 
Yes I am sure they do, it's probably all the speed bumps I have to go across my estate what has killed them off
 
I haven’t heard of any one getting them from another supplier but I am sure they will post if they have.
May be worth giving Nissan dealer a call for a price.

The front ones are ok to change and you can cut the nuts off if need be, but be careful with the rear ones they are held in place with bolts that are threaded in to captive nut within the chassis and can snap off giving you a bigger headache than you started with, I know some members have stuck them back on perhaps a little no more nails would do.
 
The front ones the nuts are in the bottom arms but if it comes to it i'll just shear the nuts off :lol: The raer ones do look a pig so as a quick fix I did put some no more nails on it :lol: but don't think I used enough so going to put 2 cable tie around it so I don't loose it :lol:
 
I was having a windscreen fitted at work and i borrowed there adhesive to bond my rear ones back on still bonded on strong good stuff
 
Mine passed MOT without any rear ones, they must have fallen off before I got the truck. No signs of anything bottoming out etc at the rear despite articulation like in my avatar.
 
i ripped mine off whilst mucking about with brakes half off anyway dog was barking so needed sommat to lob at it ! passed its mot without!
 
bump stops dont come into the m.o.t test i had a 1988 daihatsu m.o.t'd this year and i'd taken them all off and it passed and i actually asked the the m.o.t bloke and he said "they are not part of the suspension or structural so they are not in the test hope this helps :smile:
 
All that was left of my rear ones was the plates and the bolts would not move so I cut them off with disc cutter this left 1/2 inc off the bolts sticking out. So held the new ones in place and welded over the sticking out bit nice and firm if I need to do again just cut the weld off.
 
Hi Dixie

If you're still watching this thread - I like your simple solution to replacing the rear bump stops. I'm about to shear off the remaining two of the four rear bump stop bolts I've not already sheared and have the intention of tack welding new ones on just like your post.

Questions -

Did you use an arc welder?
If so - did you need to disconnect the battery?
If not - did the use of electric welding mess with any electronics?
If you did disconnect the battery did any of your electronics (radio?) play up afterwards?
Anyone with experience of using an arc welder on the chassis without it messing with electronics?

Regards CL
 
CaptLimey said:
Questions -

Did you use an arc welder?
If so - did you need to disconnect the battery?
If not - did the use of electric welding mess with any electronics?
If you did disconnect the battery did any of your electronics (radio?) play up afterwards?
Anyone with experience of using an arc welder on the chassis without it messing with electronics?

Regards CL

I've welded on mine without disconecting - no probs, however, I must point out its your responsibility and if you do any damage don't come crying etc.
 
bump stops

Hi I did dissconect the battery and I used a mig welder I dissconected the battery just to be safe as I did not want to damage any electrics and it only takes two minuets to do so I did, the only thing is I had to recode the radio no hardship.
 
MAKE SURE U KNOW THE CODE FIRST OR YOULL BE SPITTING FEATHERS LOL
 
Thanks to all.

I'd like to disconnect the battery as a precaution but I don't yet know if mine's a coded radio. It's a Kenwood KDC 80-20 radio/CD player with detachable front control panel. I think these were the forerunner to coded radios? I'm still waiting for recently ordered instruction book. Anyone have info on that model radio? If not I'll re-post in 'Electrical' and see what I get.

Regards CL
 
These blokes in the U.S. do aftermarket bumpstops of varying height so you can eek out a bit more droop and bump travel:
http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html...b&ps_session=d4a8f2e2b50639e5b125f575c07f76bd
Make sure your dampers are long enough to accomodate the extra travel. You can lower the diff a bit with eccentric bushes if you are worried about CV problems from extra droop.

I haven't fitted these but here is a report from someone who has fitted them to an old Pathy:
"To increase the amount of available wheel travel we replaced the thick Nissan top out bumper with Energy Suspensions Urethane low profile bump stop. This allowed us to raise the front suspension more, gaining wheel travel but still maintaining a good amount of droop travel so the truck would not rebound hard off of bumps. To prevent harsh bottoming we used some of AC’s poly foam bumpstops. These bumpstops are made of soft microcellular urethane and are slightly taller than stock but progressive in stiffness. The idea is that they will gradually get stiffer as the downward travel increases so you won’t get a harsh bottoming out. In the rear we used AC’s urethane 2.5” bumpstop replacing the nearly 5” thick stock hard rubber bumpstop. This not only gave us an extra 2.5 inches of wheel travel but also improve articulation of the rear suspension. The AC rear bumpstops were for a D21 truck and needed to be slightly modified to fit on the back of the WD21 Pathfinder. This was a fairly simple task of welding the bumpstop plate to another one with the bolt holes farther apart. With the new bumpstops Project Pathfinder now has another 2.5 inches of rear and 1.5 inches more bump eating front wheel travel than stock without creating a tippy raised up monster truck."
 

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