Brake Drum differences

[Banshee]

Has anyone with the 280mm Bosch System NOT the 254mm Lucas system ever brought rear brake shoes from Milner?

I have the later Renault diff not the earlier cast one which I presume to have the smaller drums?

Mine need replacing

 

[Sweety]

I'm sure the rear axle is a Nissan item as it's also fitted on the US version of the T2 called the Xterra which came with drum or disc brakes depending on age & spec

 

[Banshee]

I'm sure the rear axle is a Nissan item as it's also fitted on the US version of the T2 called the Xterra which came with drum or disc brakes depending on age & spec

Based on that but not helping my current situation [emoji38]

Why haven't we ever seen a rear disc conversion on a T2 then :nenau

 

[solarman216]

Cos drums are more than good enough, so good that they need a load adjuster valve to limit the break force depending on load, plus HB on disks are sh
*t, need I say more, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

What he said :clap

 

[Banshee]

Great so I've tried to remove the hub using x2 M8 1.25 bolts and both of them have sheared into the recesses :doh

Now got to drill them out after work, I had to jump on my mountain bike this morn

Reason I'm trying to remove is because I think one of the shoes has fallen off inside and my wheel is jammed up, handbrake solid after 1 click and if I try to move the car any real distance then the drum becomes very hot

The Maverick ones were way smaller and easier to remove, the ones on my 04 are 280mm the old ones are 254mm and are Lucas system apparently :nenau

Help!!!

 

[AlexD333]

I was meant to measure mine last night :augie

I will go out this morning and have a nose :thumb2

 

[Banshee]

I was meant to measure mine last night :augie

I will go out this morning and have a nose :thumb2

Yeah let me know because as far as I'm aware the shoes are bigger for the 280mm Bosch system and Milner don't have these listed so you have likely ordered the wrong ones

 

[makeitfit]

Have you slackened off the handbrake cable before trying to remove the drums ? Adjuster under handbrake lever center console thingy :thumbs
I also find a good twatting of the drum as you tighten your bolt works well

 

[Banshee]

Have you slackened off the handbrake cable before trying to remove the drums ? Adjuster under handbrake lever center console thingy :thumbs
I also find a good twatting of the drum as you tighten your bolt works well

Thanks for the info and tips Pete :thumb2

I'll try that tonight when I've drilled :doh

 

[rustic]

...
I also find a good twatting of the drum as you tighten your bolt works well

I was just going to suggest that... It's a similar approach I take to removing the flywheel on my outboard, put tension on the flywheel using a puller, or "G" clamp, leave upper nut loose but in place...place a towel over the lot, the puller is known to fly off when it's released, then with a mallet or hammer with a block of wood, hit the flywheel once on the side... 99% of the time it works first time.

So too late now, but I would have used M8.8 bolts minimum, tightened them both, then hit the drum with a mallet, or hammer with a block of wood.

Mind you prior to that, I would have sprayed WD40 into the threaded holes for several hours, topping up regularly...:augie
When reassembling, use a very slight smear of copper grease on the face plate to brake drum interface. After that I only use the two bolts as a handle to pull the drum off. Works for me lol. I service the handbrake annually, about two weeks before the MOT:augie

Rustic

 

[makeitfit]

Rustic , who else could expand "Twatting" into a full page of eloquent instruction ? :bow
Brilliant
That's what I meant ofcourse :lamer:

 

[rustic]

Rustic , who else could expand "Twatting" into a full page of eloquent instruction ? :bow
Brilliant
That's what I meant ofcourse :lamer:

Well, I have probably got a bit more time to write it, and support it with other examples, but the shortened version works well..:thumb2
:lol

 

[Terrano Steve]

I find if you hold a nut against the broken stud and weld down through centre of the nut usually works well for removing sheared studs.:thumb2

 

[solarman216]

Mmmmm if you have sheared the bolts as opposed to stripping the threads in the drum, it suggests your drum/drums are really stuck and may need a lot of persuasion to get them off, do not be afraid, of hitting them hard with a hammer, I do it all the time and have never cracked one yet, if the worst comes to the worst you can drill the drum at the correct point and manually slack the adjuster, the correct point only being determined with a drum off on a similar motor, 10 to 12 mm hole is enough, have done it on my off roader to save time, but my brakes are old style so no good to you, a gas torch to heat the drums is another way but try to keep the heat even all round, but be careful of hitting them when red hot yes I mean red hot, just short of glowing, Rick

 

[Banshee]

So I opened the drums up in the end to find that the pad on the shoe in the drivers rear hub had fell off It looks like the glue has failed

Brought a new set of Shoes and fitted them, it's easy when you've done a set before, I remembered it like riding a bike, not daunting at all

And while they were off I gave the hubs a bit of a loving

 

[quixote]

Nice work. I had the same issue a while back. Rear brakes were screaming

I couldn't find anything wrong until I noticed a small gap between the lining material and the shoe & stuck a screwdriver into it . . . . .

 

[quixote]

What a squeal it was making

 

[quixote]

Ping!

 

[glanrichbex]

Mine did this too except the noise only happened when I was reversing as the other end of the shoe was coming away.