Brake calliper boot

[Lazy-Ferret]

That kit is twice the price I paid [£27.90 I ordered Tuesday got it yesterday but was told it may not be here until Today]
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281158091393
The kit is enough for both calipers and is the same brand as those featured in one of the videos shown earlier in the thread

If anyone is interested I will take more pictures I could even rig up a dash cam to make a video when I do the other side, which is nowhere as stiff as the near side, I could not turn the N/S wheel by hand,

Cheers...

The link I posted is actually for 2 kits, so about the same price.....

A video specific to our cars could always be useful.

 

[macabethiel]

I use DoT 5.1 only have done for last 10 years or so

Rusty pistons, this may be caused by water in the Dot4 I understand it attracts water, I think the word is hygroscopic
The Maverick is even older than Rustics and has over 130K on the clock.
I asked advice of my local garage MOT centre I showed him a sample from the brake line I drained some into a bottle, it is a lot darker than the Dot 4 he sold me but he said it is AOK.
I will not be re-using the Dot4 that comes out as I bleed the brakes.
Anyone interested I will take pictures in daylight of the old and new, I have no idea what colour it is, I am red green colour blind

All brake fluids are Hygroscopic except Silicone based ones. That is why you should change your brake fluid regularly - every 2 years is the norm.

Below is an article about Silicone based fluids. I use DoT 5.1 from Halfrauds it is probably the best spec you can get that is Glycol based and fair price. I do not know anyone who uses the Silicone based fluid and it can still cause rusting.

Whether or not to convert from standard glycol-based brake fluid to silicone fluid is an issue many auto enthusiasts struggle with.

Converting to silicone brake fluid has pros and cons, all of which should be considered before making the transition.. To start with, there are a few very good reasons to convert to DOT5 silicone brake fluid:

Silicone fluid is non-hydroscopic (it doesn’t attract or absorb water)
It will not ruin paint (glycol fluid will remove paint)
Silicone brake fluid has a higher dry boiling point than DOT3 and DOT4 fluid, providing better, more rugged performance under pressure
Silicone is a full synthetic fluid with superior lubrication properties for the pistons in the braking system (reduces wear on the seals and pistons)

As great as all this sounds, there are a few drawbacks as well:

Silicone brake fluid does not mix with water, so any water that enters the system will travel to the lowest point (low point in caliper or brake line)
It will not mix with glycol based DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1 fluids (can create a gel, damaging braking system if mixed)
Silicone brake fluid cannot be used in any ABS braking systems

These drawbacks should be taken into consideration before you switch, to make sure that a) your auto's braking system is up for the conversion, and b) the conversion to silicone brake fluid is done properly to ensure no damage is done to the vehicle.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

All brake fluids are Hygroscopic except Silicone based ones. That is why you should change your brake fluid regularly - every 2 years is the norm.

Below is an article about Silicone based fluids. I use DoT 5.1 from Halfrauds it is probably the best spec you can get that is Glycol based and fair price. I do not know anyone who uses the Silicone based fluid and it can still cause rusting.

Whether or not to convert from standard glycol-based brake fluid to silicone fluid is an issue many auto enthusiasts struggle with.

Converting to silicone brake fluid has pros and cons, all of which should be considered before making the transition.. To start with, there are a few very good reasons to convert to DOT5 silicone brake fluid:

Silicone fluid is non-hydroscopic (it doesn’t attract or absorb water)
It will not ruin paint (glycol fluid will remove paint)
Silicone brake fluid has a higher dry boiling point than DOT3 and DOT4 fluid, providing better, more rugged performance under pressure
Silicone is a full synthetic fluid with superior lubrication properties for the pistons in the braking system (reduces wear on the seals and pistons)

As great as all this sounds, there are a few drawbacks as well:

Silicone brake fluid does not mix with water, so any water that enters the system will travel to the lowest point (low point in caliper or brake line)
It will not mix with glycol based DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1 fluids (can create a gel, damaging braking system if mixed)
Silicone brake fluid cannot be used in any ABS braking systems

These drawbacks should be taken into consideration before you switch, to make sure that a) your auto's braking system is up for the conversion, and b) the conversion to silicone brake fluid is done properly to ensure no damage is done to the vehicle.

Wow... thanks for that, I knew the issues with normal glycol fluids as we covered it at college, but from what you say, Silicon is not really a great step forward.

I always change my fluid every 2 years having seen the problems first hand with old fluid.

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[kitchenman]

2nd calliper update

It's not looking too good on the bleed nipple front, the hex rounded off with a ring spanner
Put it in the vice feels like this one is going to shear off :doh
I have heated it and the surrounding metal with my gas torch [plumbers] and as it cooled down added WD40
I am leaving it until tomorrow before I give it some welly, if it needs it, the other one was rounded off but came out easy in the vice [grip nipple in vice]
I suspect it will shear off:doh
I have tapped it inwards and as it is hollow crunched it in the vice [4"]
If it does shear off I am toying with the idea of drilling a new hole close by for another nipple, the only problem may be the angle of the end of the nipple, suggestions please:bow:bow
I may be asking around has anyone got a right hand calliper for sale? PayPal up front of course WHY and how much delivered
I tried CNCFABS before I knew the kit was available but he never got back

Someone on FB has a similar problem only has a screw extractor broken in it.

 

[kitchenman]

Patience paid off, several blasts with the gas torch and lots of Wd40, then my impact screwdriver, final go in the vice and

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[kitchenman]

PTFE tape on the new ones so they never sieze again

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[macabethiel]

PTFE tape ?

I would never have thought of using PTFE tape. I just use a very small smear of Copper ease and try not to over tighten them. I also use the little rubber cover on the nipple with some grease on them to stop the nuts going too rusty.

 

[kitchenman]

PTFE tape

When I worked in laundries I found a couple of layers of tape any every thread, even the male thread of unions made sure they always came apart easy.
I fact anything with a male thread had a layer of tape, even the inspection covers of the boilers.
I even put it on the threads of compression fittings with a bit pushed inside to mate with the olive, no leaks and came apart easy
I also use it on drain and fill plugs of diffs and gear boxes
Its cheap and it works

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

When I worked in laundries I found a couple of layers of tape any every thread, even the male thread of unions made sure they always came apart easy.
I fact anything with a male thread had a layer of tape, even the inspection covers of the boilers.
I even put it on the threads of compression fittings with a bit pushed inside to mate with the olive, no leaks and came apart easy
I also use it on drain and fill plugs of diffs and gear boxes
Its cheap and it works

I will have to give that a go, great tip... up to now I have been a Copperslip guy, everything that comes apart gets put back with a smear of it on the threads.

 

[rustic]

I will have to give that a go, great tip... up to now I have been a Copperslip guy, everything that comes apart gets put back with a smear of it on the threads.

From day one, I gave a thin coat of waxoyl on the outer threads, and all the brakepipes and unions, not the rubber of course.
Did the same on the fuel pipes too. :thumb2
Still all original lol.:augie
Rustic

 

[kitchenman]

brake bleed nipples

I have a message from Solarman [Rick] after my panic over the seized nipple, it goes like this [cut and pasted from PM's]
I have changed loads and never once bled via the nipple, too risky, once it is connected but not on the disc, pump the brake pedal a few times to push the pistons out fully, (bit of wood stops them going too far) then with the hose at the high point push the pistons back in, any air goes back to the master, should only need to do it once, job done, Rick
I asked if I could quote him
yes you are welcome to pass the tip on, incidentally it works just as well on the rears, Rick

There you go thank you Rick