Brake calliper boot

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kitchenman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
1,278
HELP!!!, I had seized pistons so brakes were binding so I thought no problem get a service kit:doh
Problem I can't figure out how to get the outer edge of the boot to fit in the groove above the oil seal:doh
I compared the old with the new boot looks the same
There must be a knack, anyone out there give me a clue:bow:bow:bow
 
This does not bode well, I was looking at getting one of those kits for mine, as my boots all seem to be too loose, and do not grip tight enough to stay in the grove at the end of the piston!

Take some pictures and let us know how you get on..
 
Hi, it is getting the boot fitted that's the problem,I can't figure out how it goes on the cylinder, it looks like the old one, must be a trick to it. There is a small groove a lip goes in above the seal groove, all looks too big, but matches the original which tore getting it out[emoji33]

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When I have fitted dust seals they were either like the one in the video where you fit it onto piston first and engage the outer edge into the calliper them slide the piston through making sure its dead square and lubricated before you push it into the bore seal.

Other type I have fitted is where there is a solid steel ring to the outer seal much like an oil seal fitting.With these I have fitted the seal into the piston, then pulled out the bellows part, fitted piston partway then pushed the piston in being very careful when pushing in the "folded section" not to trap the seal and then tap the last part of the seal home.

Hard to explain without a picture though this video is the other type.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rf-ONbg9-os
 
AOK thanks for the video, I was doing it all wrong, trying to fit the piston first, the manual suggested the boot was fitted after. I bought my repair kit from the same place Bigg Red. I will have another go tomorrow now I know the problem was the ID10T at this end. The tenner is well spent

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AOK thanks for the video, I was doing it all wrong, trying to fit the piston first, the manual suggested the boot was fitted after. I bought my repair kit from the same place Bigg Red. I will have another go tomorrow now I know the problem was the ID10T at this end. The tenner is well spent

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Don't beat yourself up we have all done that sort of thing in the enthusiasm of fitting a new part worse bit is if you break something in the attempt ! It is still a fiddly job even when you know how !
 
Success the airline trick does the job, with a hammer handle inside the piston to stop it popping out
16abd59f5fb23dc47b7e96f034e08382.jpg
3e3e728d452dbddbdf9b8be39b80b538.jpg


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Looking Good !

Success the airline trick does the job, with a hammer handle inside the piston to stop it popping out
16abd59f5fb23dc47b7e96f034e08382.jpg
3e3e728d452dbddbdf9b8be39b80b538.jpg


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Nice looking job and they have cleaned up OK too congratulations you now have a5* Golden Spanner Status! lol

Are you going to paint them a nice Ferrari Red ?
 
Great job, I am glad I held off doing mine till next time now... some great tips here, and I would never have thought of the tyre valve idea.

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I just rebuilt the rears on Toyota MR2 and I had to use plenty of air to move the piston. I used a piece of wood across the front of the piston to stop it shooting out as I have seen happen before. On my calipers the dust boot is held on with a split ring that sits into a grove. I had to fit the piston first though. Always use the correct grease for the seals and the slide pins,

I used this as some grease come ruin rubber seals.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-...370195?hash=item1c434f8913:g:n~0AAOSwPhdU5csv
 
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I got my pistons out with a pair of plumbers grips, they were well stuck:eek:
I should get a few more miles to the gallon now
I am doing the other side over the weekend
I have an airline so did not need the valve idea, put something in front of the pistons if they are free enough to blow out, they come out all of a sudden, if you are using a foot pump this may not be a problem
No I am not painting them, working is good, looking pretty does not make it go any better.
I cleaned them up well because I did not want to transfer the crap on the outside to the innards while I was working in them
All in all I am chuffed I could not get callipers locally, they were >£100each, the kit cost <£40. Now I know how to do them no more than half a day all in
 
I got my pistons out with a pair of plumbers grips, they were well stuck:eek:
I should get a few more miles to the gallon now
I am doing the other side over the weekend
I have an airline so did not need the valve idea, put something in front of the pistons if they are free enough to blow out, they come out all of a sudden, if you are using a foot pump this may not be a problem
No I am not painting them, working is good, looking pretty does not make it go any better.
I cleaned them up well because I did not want to transfer the crap on the outside to the innards while I was working in them
All in all I am chuffed I could not get callipers locally, they were >£100each, the kit cost <£40. Now I know how to do them no more than half a day all in

This is probably a really silly question, but how did you connect the air line to the calliper? Also, what make repair kit did you use, and where did you get it, I found this one on Ebay, but was not sure if it was OK or not?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371268446181?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
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AOK thanks for the video, I was doing it all wrong, trying to fit the piston first, the manual suggested the boot was fitted after. I bought my repair kit from the same place Bigg Red. I will have another go tomorrow now I know the problem was the ID10T at this end. The tenner is well spent

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I simply pushed the nozzle of the blowgun into the hydraulic line hole where the banjo goes, I have a picture on my phone i will send it via Tapatalk, I cant be arsed with sending pictures from PC top left of the picture, the air is just inflating the boot, do NOT push the piston in too hard, the air needs to get past the sealing ring
 
Minor problem

The car rolls al lot further now, I have to use the hand brake to hold it on an incline :lol
 
Proper Job...:thumb2

What I can't understand, is what great condition the pistons were in.
I once tried to change seals on a mini in the 70's and they leaked, so I said to myself, always buy new, so for the rears of my Mav, I bought new cylinders..
So are front calipers always like this, but only if the dust seals are intact?
 
Rusty pistons, this may be caused by water in the Dot4 I understand it attracts water, I think the word is hygroscopic
The Maverick is even older than Rustics and has over 130K on the clock.
I asked advice of my local garage MOT centre I showed him a sample from the brake line I drained some into a bottle, it is a lot darker than the Dot 4 he sold me but he said it is AOK.
I will not be re-using the Dot4 that comes out as I bleed the brakes.
Anyone interested I will take pictures in daylight of the old and new, I have no idea what colour it is, I am red green colour blind
 
This is probably a really silly question, but how did you connect the air line to the calliper? Also, what make repair kit did you use, and where did you get it, I found this one on Ebay, but was not sure if it was OK or not?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371268446181?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That kit is twice the price I paid [£27.90 I ordered Tuesday got it yesterday but was told it may not be here until Today]
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281158091393
The kit is enough for both calipers and is the same brand as those featured in one of the videos shown earlier in the thread

If anyone is interested I will take more pictures I could even rig up a dash cam to make a video when I do the other side, which is nowhere as stiff as the near side, I could not turn the N/S wheel by hand,
 
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