Removing the hub is the way to go.
1 Chock the vehicle
2 Jack up vehicle, use axle stands, remove wheel.
3 slacken off the cable adjuster under the hand brake lever. You have to remove the centre squab, to access it, but I learnt on here that there is a short cut.
If you have a 3/8" drive, 10mm AF deep socket, you can use a screw driver to push aside the soft plastic shroud that is moulded onto the handbrake lever underneath it.
Then you can see an M6 nylock nut, undo this a few turns until the lever is floppy.
4 using 2 x M8 bolts, insert into the face of the brake drum, tighten each in turn.
if the drum is seized, apply plus gas or WD 40 into the M8 holes and surrounding area.
5 when removing the drum, it might jam on the linings, so slacken the two m8 bolts, and hit the drum inwards, either with your palm or rubber mallet, NEVER A HAMMER
You will then hear a clunk as the shoes drop backwards, then the drum slides off easily.
So what could the problem be?
1 The linings may have separated from the shoe.
2 You may have a seized slave cylinder, or leaking cylinder, if so replace BOTH sides.
3 A return spring could have broken.
4 Over adjustment as suggested
5 crushed or damaged hand brake cable.
Have a look under the vehicle, where the handbrake cable goes through the floor, immediately the cable goes into a brake cable equaliser, ie a bar where the rear hand brake cables join. This bar should be perpendicular ( at right angles to) the cables, although a slight mis alignment is acceptable as wear will be different on each side, but if the angle is say 30 degrees or more then more investigation is required. Maybe even two new rear cables, and these are not cheap
The Auto adjusters on these vehicles do not work, they rarely do.:doh
I always do this job, about a month before the MOT.
So mine are used to coming off.
Additional things you will need.
Spray brake cleaner, to clean shoes and drum.
A small amount of copper slip grease, to lightly smear the points of contact of the shoes to the back plate, and also at the metal ends of the shoe, where they contact the slave cylinder and the lower mount.
A small kiddies paint brush is good for applying the grease. BUT NOT A LOT...
If you use an amount greater than the size of a pea per side, you are using too much.
The average hand brake on these trucks, are normally at best just adequate, but with routine maintenance will be brilliant.
Mine can hold a 2 tonne boat and trailer on a steep slipway, with no risk of creeping.
Since you have all the tool out, then why not do a service on the other side too.
When adjusting the handbrake, take up the adjustment on the auto adjuster, a few clicks at a time, try drum, if easy to get on, then remove and do a few more.
ONLY WHEN both rear drums are adjusted correctly, move onto the handbrake lever adjuster.
Don't forget to torque up your wheel nuts, steel wheels and alloy wheel nuts are different.
Hope it helps..
