Battery not charging

[Jimblyb]

Morning all, me again...

Wondered if anyone might be able to give me a steer on electrics - they're my Nemesis...

Backstory - battery used to go flat after a few days of no use. Auto sparks had a look and found drain through a wire PO had put in - runs to the rear of the car so maybe a split charge or something for caravan wiring. Anyway, removed fuse and much better.

Couple of days ago, started going flat overnight. Have now discovered that the battery is not charging. Was out with the missus this morning doing some chores and had to sit in the car with engine running otherwise it would have been dead - clearly running off the battery (fan slows as lights turned on, etc). Revving engine had no effect.

Got home and in a position where it didn't matter if it died and found that with the engine running, there was approx 8V across the battery, rising to 8.5V when revved. Once I turned it off, there was 12V across but nothing in the battery at all. It wouldn't even sound the key buzzer.

While I was sat waiting, I hit google (possibly a bad idea) and tried a few things when it was still running that people had suggested. One was that if the 'stat is stuck open (mine never gets above 1/4 on the temp guage), the glow plugs run all the time, so I took the relay out of the box under the bonnet - no difference. The 'Alt' 10A fuse is intact as is the 'Metre' 10A fuse in the car fusebox.

I'm guessing the alternator is FUBAR but before I try to pull it off, get it tested and rebuilt, is there anything I might be missing?

If not, should I leave the vacuum pump attached to the rear of the alternator as I remove it and just remove the vacuum pipes?

Many thanks all... again...

Jim

 

[emjaybee]

My knowledge says that if the engine is running and the alternator is working correctly then there should be 14volts at the battery terminals, the charging voltage.

If the alternator is goosed then you will get much less than 14volts as you will be reading the battery voltage. Which is likely to be below 12volts as the vehicle is running. When you turn the engine off the battery voltage will return to 12volts as there is no longer a load on it.

Sounds to me like your alternator isn't charging.

:thumb2

 

[Jimblyb]

Yeah, was afraid of that. Logically, it makes sense but hoped against hope there might be a magic fix...

So do you know if the vacuum pump comes off with the alternator then split?

Thanks,

Jim

 

[emjaybee]

I'm afraid I expended my entire knowledge with the previous post.

Be patient, someone will be along shortly to confirm my info and to help you with a solution.

Hang in there.

:thumbs

 

[rayf3262]

Could be a wiring or connector fault, worth checking before committing to an alternator swap.
Check for continuity from the battery -ve to the alternator frame. Then check for continuity from the battery +ve to the larger of the cables on the back of the alternator. You will likely have to remove the plug from the alternator for this last step.

BTW what does the alternator indicator lamp on the dash do?

 

[Banshee]

If the alternator is at fault usually the red battery light will come on.

Get the multimeter out, if it's doing it's job, as said above you should see 14v ish when the engine is running.

 

[macabethiel]

Battery Light etc

My r3mR started to have charge issues and eventually after having the battery tested drew a blank for a few weeks.
Then had to charge it up every few days until one day the Red Battery Light came on on the dash.
Had it checked out and the rectifier had failed so it was putting out some AC current. Local Mechanic fixed it by soldering in the right part sourced from a local auto electrician.. Turns out the wrong rectifier had been fitted by a previous owner should have been a 120 Ah or similar and had standard Terrano one with a lower output - circa 80 Ah.

 

[Jimblyb]

Thanks guys.

The dash light comes on when I hit the ignition then goes out when the engine starts and doesn't come back on again. Def not charging, as 8V across the battery when running and 12V when off.

Will try checking for continuity and see what's what after that.

May be another few quid for the auto sparks...

 

[Banshee]

Thanks guys.

The dash light comes on when I hit the ignition then goes out when the engine starts and doesn't come back on again. Def not charging, as 8V across the battery when running and 12V when off.

Will try checking for continuity and see what's what after that.

May be another few quid for the auto sparks...

Is it a TD or TDi?

 

[Jimblyb]

it's a TD...

 

[solarman216]

Alternator for sure, think the vac pump is removable but still means alternator will be dearer as it has to have the required out put drive, here in Hastings we still have a guy who repairs alternators but these guys are getting scarce, worh checking your area though, Rick

 

[Tim Gilbert]

What solarman said. We also have a local guy who will test and fix. But is too far from you. A lot of time's the failure is as simple as a regulator pack . Might be worth seeing if you have any companies local. Best of luck

 

[Banshee]

Spoke to Terranobreakershropshire last night and he said he will post you one for £40 all in, he said this will include the vac pump for piece of mind as apparently he's removed a few in the past and there are two different spindle thicknesses

PM me if you want it

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[Jimblyb]

Thanks again all for your help.

I've found a local place that can test - apparently - so I might whip it off and get it over there to make sure that it is actually the alternator that is knackered rather than something else in the car.

Once that's confirmed, Banshee, I'll drop you a PM and get the relevant details for that one at £40 if that's OK?

Thanks again all,

Jim

 

[Banshee]

Thanks again all for your help.

I've found a local place that can test - apparently - so I might whip it off and get it over there to make sure that it is actually the alternator that is knackered rather than something else in the car.

Once that's confirmed, Banshee, I'll drop you a PM and get the relevant details for that one at £40 if that's OK?

Thanks again all,

Jim

Fine by me :thumbs

 

[RJL Services]

Have you checked the earth lead connections one from battery to body and body to engine as i know the battery to body can corrode badly i have had to clean mine in the past just a thought:nenau

 

[Banshee]

Have you checked the earth lead connections one from battery to body and body to engine as i know the battery to body can corrode badly i have had to clean mine in the past just a thought:nenau

A solid shout!!!!! Also had this issue on my Maverick before

 

[kitchenman]

did you check the belt tension, my second alt stopped charging but the light was going out, slack belt was the problem, so simple often overlooked if there is no slipping sound

 

[Jimblyb]

Thanks all,

Local specialist check it and it's like Trigger's broom - needs regulator, rectifier, brushes, etc. Repair is 120+VAT, brand new is 115 + VAT.

Banshee, PM on its way to see if I can rustle up that one you mentioned.

Thanks all for your help - once again, greatly appreciated.

Jim