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You have just uped the centre of gravity by butting on lift springs & now a set of 35" tyres:augiea body lift won't make much difference as most of the vechicles weight is in the chassis, engine & drive train


yes but is roughly 6 inches wider now too... so effectively i have lowered the centre of gravity

the wheels only give 3.5 inches at the dif from standard + 2 inch spring lift
so its only 5.5 inches higher
 
Yes so you could get away with a 1-2" body lift no probs & save some of your metal work & body strength:augieA friend (he did the body lift in the D/L) is running 33's, 3" suspension lift & 4"body lift on his without any probs & i've seen the pic's of the hills he has took it up:eek::eek::eek:
 
Yes so you could get away with a 1-2" body lift no probs & save some of your metal work & body strength:augieA friend (he did the body lift in the D/L) is running 33's, 3" suspension lift & 4"body lift on his without any probs & i've seen the pic's of the hills he has took it up:eek::eek::eek:

but let me just get this straight for once, do you or don't you have to mod the bumper brackets for a body lift? and anything else?
 
IIRC the bumper mounts have to be modded or new ones fabbed up & so does the top rad mounts. alot less work than cutting the body of your motor to bit & rewelding it al back together
 
yep..... and its loads of headache, for me anyway. and dont think it will work

also if i articulate too much the wheels will just hit other bits... thats why im limiting the upward movement on them
still let em go down but reduce the up
 
Reducing the upward movement I think would hinder the trucks off road performance. TBH the R20 has'nt got the best flex in the world at the front end to start with:rolleyes:
 
Reducing the upward movement I think would hinder the trucks off road performance. TBH the R20 has'nt got the best flex in the world at the front end to start with:rolleyes:

makes sense; its like putting your ARBs back on really....
 
It was only a few weeks ago I noticed lacroupade cocking a wheel over a small hump in the hedge! So limiting the up travel will also limit the down surely!:augie Back axle anyway.
Front you def. need those big boys on the ground or the diff will spin the loose wheel!:eek:
Go on lift it, get some articimulation:naughty
 
It was only a few weeks ago I noticed lacroupade cocking a wheel over a small hump in the hedge! So limiting the up travel will also limit the down surely!:augie Back axle anyway.
Front you def. need those big boys on the ground or the diff will spin the loose wheel!:eek:
Go on lift it, get some articimulation:naughty

he's right, had to brake downhill for some upcoming Landies and even though the ABS kicked in it took ages to stop...only just made it...couldn't understand why til Pete said one of my butt cheeks was off the deck, so only three-wheeled braking in effect!
 
well the front extensions i already have just got to fit them. so they wont cost.

also if i use some towing aids, the rubber you fit in the coil springs this will harden the springs and give less upward travel of the wheel.
so it shouldn't reduce the opposite down movement . it will just go down sooner
the arb reduces both up and down.

but most important it will give less body roll and cost 25 quid to set it all up. and i can do it in a couple of hours.

unlike a body lift that will cost more and loads of hastle

anyway bluebull is the only one using 33's so far and all the body lifts etc and his new kit will cost over a grand in parts + plus getting someone to fit it. he's had to do that cos his existing 3" spring lift with 4" body lift dont work

i think its worth 25 quid to try this way

if we didn't try new things what fun would it be.

i wouldn't have extreme air or 35's on the truck
 
Its true, we need someone to try out these mods and see how well they work or dont work.
The end result may not suit everyones needs but thats not the point is it.
Colins 'pioneering' these mods on Mavs and T2's can only be a good thing for the rest of us that want to modify or have modified our trucks.:thumbs
 
well if it does work. it will certainly help prevent bottoming out in the ruts
a big tall truck is not the look a want and id prefer stiffer suspension
 
anyway bluebull is the only one using 33's so far and all the body lifts etc and his new kit will cost over a grand in parts + plus getting someone to fit it. he's had to do that cos his existing 3" spring lift with 4" body lift dont work

Bluebull has now got a 4" suspension lift & 3" body lift:thumb2 my friend has a 3" suspension lift & 4" body lift running 33's & his bro has a 4" body lift & is also running 33's no probs:augie
 
ok well been looking at the articulation today and im close , so im sure my way will work ...
extensions will sort the front as im hitting everything with an inch of damper left so 2 inch extensions will stop em hitting anything.

also good news i collect my new spring assisters in the morning 15.00 a pair
they fit from 26-39mm as my coil gaps are 30mm(at full articulation) they will limit the upward movement by 30mm a pair , but not downward... if needed i can go 1 pair top and 1 pair bottom if needed but i try just 1 to start.

the other trucks are nice but i want a more standard look. that was one reason for extreme air , it don't attract attention .
after all i dont see the point in getting pulled over for silly things

and as im often reminded about modded trucks and someone killing there family in a landy . the spring assisters are not really considered a mod as its a tool for towing

i also recon ill get less roll and a harder ride this way

but who knows i might be proved wrong . but then im only 15 quid down ay
 
Please tell me you're not using your shock absorbers as bump stops, because thats what it sounds like. Topping out your shocks is not a good idea and thats what fitting extenders will have you doing. The standard shock length at the front is the right length to allow full suspension travel without topping or bottoming out even without bump stops.

If you want to limit the travel fit larger bump stops, coil spring spacers will not limit articulation they will just stiffen up your suspension, but ultimately the compression will still be there in the rest of the spring.

IMHO what you are doing is perhaps going to produce a better handling road car but it will be crap off road, wagging wheels all over the place - no good having great big grippy tyres if they're not on the ground.
 

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