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exosteve

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2012
Messages
2,740
as I understand it this is about right.
but I have quite a few questions please.

first question.

what holds that bottom bolt in?:nenau
I have still got to get me ruler out but. I am thinking. if that bottom bolt is even 5mm too long then the bushes are doing nowt.

if its 5mm too short then the bushes will bounce the bolt out.

on petes pic there is no locking nut to secure the bolt. so what keeps it in place.

ive got me rose joints and misalignment washers. ive took me old link off and know I need 8 washers and have the sizes.
new bushes. I just need me bolt info.

this is a fair old upgrade as my next few pics will show.but its as usual,always cost more than you think.

for anyone following this thread be prepared for an 80 quid guesstimate
over the tenner ebay links.
 

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there is a very deffinate difference in height.

however I will be doing the torsion bar tweek before I go france so longer is probably better.

im aware I will need to adjust the camber when its done so the trip to france will deffo show how I need to adjust it and which way.

I expect to get no money back from these tyres as we will wear then out first.

but I d rather do it with these than my 33s.

(another thread comin on) if I have done 2" body lift and 3" suspention lift.
can I fit 35s?
 

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I simply put threadlock on mine. However if you want to be ultra safe, drill a hole through the whole lot and put a split pin in ;)
Get your ruler out. Add the bushes and the threaded hole in rose joint. That's the sort of length you'll need. If unsure, get longer ones and cut them down as reqd ;)
 
Do not underestimate the consequences of 35s :eek:
Yes they will fit with +2" body lift and +3" suspension lift BUT you will still need to get friendly with Mr grinder and possibly even Mr Welder.
You'll also need more power and top condition brakes. If you can't fund the power then you'll need to change diff ratios .
I went 35s to prove a point mainly and because I can :naughty and do go offroading in it and no longer tescos :lol
If you're serious about 35s , start a new threadand I'll share my big rubber experiences :naughty
 
Looks about an inch difference but that is going off your pic's & guessing:augie I'm following this build Steve as i'd like to do the same but only after i've done a 1.5-2" lift & maybe a rear set up aswell which can be disconnected when off road:thumb2
 
The extra ht is needed for the suspension lift ;)
Rears are easy Sweety, and a simple bolt with an R clip or similar will do.
 
Do not underestimate the consequences of 35s :eek:
Yes they will fit with +2" body lift and +3" suspension lift BUT you will still need to get friendly with Mr grinder and possibly even Mr Welder.
You'll also need more power and top condition brakes. If you can't fund the power then you'll need to change diff ratios .
I went 35s to prove a point mainly and because I can :naughty and do go offroading in it and no longer tescos :lol
If you're serious about 35s , start a new threadand I'll share my big rubber experiences :naughty

mines got fit in Tesco car park.

am I serious about 35s:naughty
 
what about the extra width of the top bolt?
will an 1/2" bolt fit through the arb or does it need enlarging:augie
 

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I simply put threadlock on mine. However if you want to be ultra safe, drill a hole through the whole lot and put a split pin in ;)
Get your ruler out. Add the bushes and the threaded hole in rose joint. That's the sort of length you'll need. If unsure, get longer ones and cut them down as reqd ;)

how do I drill a hole through stainless steel?

im thinking.
if I lift my truck to the max can I fit a locking nut directly below the rose joint before the first washer?
 
how do I drill a hole through stainless steel?

im thinking.
if I lift my truck to the max can I fit a locking nut directly below the rose joint before the first washer?

With a drill and yes :thumbs
 
:Dpete.
as soon as ive got a k spare its yours.
I need front/rear bumpers 0.4£ then the sliders .4k
that gives me 200 quid come an fetch=1k
 
steve don't even bother with 35s. I'd go max 33s, For greenlaning only 30s/31s are the max i'd go.

Parts wear out so much faster.
 
is that why petes is always on the back of a recovery truck then:lol
 
Exactly :rolleyes:
33s and a front lokka , sorted.
Also consider your end goal, LWB isn't the 1st choice for hard offroading .
Power to weight is not as good as SWB and as I said you'll need more power for 35s
So your starting point of a LWB is the 1st BIG problem.
 
as I understand it this is about right.
but I have quite a few questions please.

first question.

what holds that bottom bolt in?:nenau
I have still got to get me ruler out but. I am thinking. if that bottom bolt is even 5mm too long then the bushes are doing nowt.

if its 5mm too short then the bushes will bounce the bolt out.

on petes pic there is no locking nut to secure the bolt. so what keeps it in place.

ive got me rose joints and misalignment washers. ive took me old link off and know I need 8 washers and have the sizes.



new bushes. I just need me bolt info.

this is a fair old upgrade as my next few pics will show.but its as usual,always cost more than you think.

for anyone following this thread be prepared for an 80 quid guesstimate
over the tenner ebay links.



where did you price your bits up steve?
I went for m12 rose joints and all the fittings in marine grade stainless plus a new polybush kit from milners and it comes to just under 45 quid.
to fit a decent set of standard droplinks and polybushes was around 35 quid so not that much in it really.

agree with pete on locktite to keep it all together.
 
with 33's you can do strata in 2wd, well apart from the bomb hole :lol :lol :lol

to be honest having bigger tyres only gives you more clearance, which is not a issue on strata
 

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